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Looking for a up lock and down lock block for CNC owner produced


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11 minutes ago, hammdo said:

Awesome work (I bought new hardware too)!

 

So worth the effort -- way to go TEAM!

Andersj and Sabremech fantastic job overall!

Now, we know how we can do OPP for sure!

-Don

Part #'s and Qty? I know I could look it up, but trying the easy route first! :D

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5 hours ago, Jim Peace said:

I just got a down block from LASAR....from phone call to in my hands just 2 days.....painless.....

Did it include the locking mechanism?  Do they have that available?  My down lock block doesn’t have one. 

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10 minutes ago, Skates97 said:

Part #'s and Qty? I know I could look it up, but trying the easy route first! :D

Listed here:

right from my manual

aircraft spruce has them...
 

-Don

 

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3 minutes ago, Buckeyechuck said:

Did it include the locking mechanism?  Do they have that available?  My down lock block doesn’t have one. 

No, looks like an AN bolt they heated and manipulated to work. The original kit had them...

may be able to locate one on eBay but, it’ll be expensive...

-Don

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 4/1/2020 at 8:20 PM, Sabremech said:

Orders getting boxed up with the paperwork. Shipping tomorrow!

David

4CCC5138-58A9-46C4-9182-203BD6586EE6.jpeg

Hi Guys,

I unfortunately didn't need a set after my mishap, but I would love to see some pics of the blocks installed.  It was so much fun to be a part of this community project.  Thank you for letting me be a small part of it.

AndersJ

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Thankful for all the effort that went into this and glad to have the new blocks for my plane. I replaced mine last week. I think the ones in the plane were the originals. The Up Lock was not in terrible shape. The Down Lock was a little egg shaped but had a good lip worn into it. The extra tiny bit that it moved locking forward in the new block changed the pre-load.  Pre-loads were checked at the last annual and the mains were at the low end.  After putting the new block in they were at the top end of the limits. The nose was pushed over the top limit so it had to be adjusted. In the process we found that the two tubes were not bearing the load evenly, the right tube was taking most of the pressure so we adjusted them to be balanced and put it back in limits.

Up Lock
1222691692_UpLock.thumb.jpg.6c6104af05746955ad4e18a23e70df49.jpg

Down Lock
1830567727_DownLock-2.thumb.jpg.5fe124bbe6fe013492f857428d4fff65.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
1 hour ago, bluehighwayflyer said:

Hey, guys.  This thread seems as good a place as any to ask this question.  Can anyone with experience in these things opine as to the condition of the down lock block in our ‘65C?   The airframe is very low time but I have no idea how many hours are on it’s down lock block as we received it from Charlie Dugosh back in the mid 80s as part of a used parts kit when we converted our C back to manual from the electric gear that Charlie had installed in it for it’s original owner back in the 1960s.   I can see some wear in the attached picture, but it doesn’t seem nearly as bad as some I have seen.  How critical is my need for a new down lock block?

Thank you!

Jim

311B0A21-029A-4AF4-9748-9A73C985F918.png

 Jim . 

From your photo and the angle of such, your block looks fine to me. 

Some wear on the outer edge from the bar head smashing into the block,!but the hole looks round to me.

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Jim,

The perspective you are looking for... is in the first pic above your post...

You will see the same ridge... but more of the hole has been worn away... making that ridge appear much larger...

A lot of aluminum slowly wears away from the hole...

Ultimately... enough aluminum gets worn... the ridge appears really large... and the hole looks egg shaped...  all at the same time.

When the J-bar shows signs that it doesn’t like to lock in place.... that is when it time to replace the block...

Nice pic of the working end of the thumb lock, by the way...!

 

:)

-a-

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11 hours ago, bluehighwayflyer said:

Excellent information.   Thanks, Anthony.  I can definitely see the difference you are referring to between mine and Richard’s OEM one above it.  I try to be very gentle with it when I lock it into place.   Thanks again, very much.   This was just the information I was looking for.  Such an ingenious mechanism.   
 

Jim

Yes, gently.  No slamming the bar into place.

My technique......I do use some momentum during the process, but once the bar end gets near the blocks, I relax that.  At that point, I gently push the bar into the block until it’s secure.

We’ve discussed this previously........ I do use a twisting/rotating motion inserting/releasing the bar with the floor block.  That seems to work well for me.

 

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has anyone had a issue of it being to difficult to get the gear in and out of the down block?  I have a new LASAR block and its almost impossible to get it in and out...just flew it today for first time and not to happy.....how is it with your owner produced parts?

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10 minutes ago, Jim Peace said:

has anyone had a issue of it being to difficult to get the gear in and out of the down block?  I have a new LASAR block and its almost impossible to get it in and out...just flew it today for first time and not to happy.....how is it with your owner produced parts?

Was the gear re-rigged after the block was replaced?

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41 minutes ago, RLCarter said:

Was the gear re-rigged after the block was replaced?

It went in during annual at a MSC,,,can only hope that it was done correctly...The bar moves just fine, it is just almost impossible to move in and out of the block....would that be an issue with it being rigged?

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37 minutes ago, RLCarter said:

Was the gear re-rigged after the block was replaced?

There is no rigging for the up position. The manual says to not rig it for up position. That being said, if the rigging is really screwed up, it could be jamming in the up position. I wouldn’t expect changing the up lock block would change the rigging in the slightest. One thing to consider is the Johnson bar is bent.

I think most of y’all are fixing things that aren’t broke....

Give the new blocks a few hundred landings to break in and they should be smooth as silk...

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23 minutes ago, N201MKTurbo said:

Give the new blocks a few hundred landings to break in and they should be smooth as silk...

A few hundred landings?  It took both of my hands to lock this in position today.....I dont want to do that anymore.....:(

 

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57 minutes ago, N201MKTurbo said:

There is no rigging for the up position. The manual says to not rig it for up position. That being said, if the rigging is really screwed up, it could be jamming in the up position. I wouldn’t expect changing the up lock block would change the rigging in the slightest. One thing to consider is the Johnson bar is bent.

I think most of y’all are fixing things that aren’t broke....

Give the new blocks a few hundred landings to break in and they should be smooth as silk...

But he replaced the “down block” which is where rigging starts

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34 minutes ago, Jim Peace said:

A few hundred landings?  It took both of my hands to lock this in position today.....I dont want to do that anymore.....:(

 

I’m sorry, I thought we were talking about the up block.

Yes, there a few things that will make that difficult. I just re-rigged one on Monday that was replaced. It was mis-rigged before the replacement. It is smooth as silk now.

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