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Looking for a up lock and down lock block for CNC owner produced


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David - set up a go fund me, and I will chip in for a set of drawings, and be ready to buy, when ready.


Probably the best way to go. If all the folks here that are interested in buying a set of these pitch in some for the drawings it should be a minimal amount. Actually surprised the drawings are that inexpensive. Where I work, an engineer would have to review and approve/sign off the drawings and his time alone would be more than that.


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As far as part cost per unit, I believe LASAR has them listed at $390 each. I’d rather not set up a go fund me as I’m quite busy enough. If someone else wants to do that, I’d prefer that. 
I’ll do my part by removing the parts from my bird and get the drawings when it looks like the costs are covered.

Thanks,

David

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Its an easy part to do, this was 3-D modeled (no measurements) in 30 minutes. I didn't generate the G-Code but I would guess maybe 60 to 70 lines...Both the original and the one I purchased from LASAR are anodized which helps with wear. I can't see the Up-Lock block (on the floor) ever needing replaced unless it was broke or missing...looks like maybe 3 setups on 3 axis CNC machine

blob.png.e6e22f9c6c8a8f3f2c43c2fea72fad23.png

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Its an easy part to do, this was 3-D modeled (no measurements) in 30 minutes. I didn't generate the G-Code but I would guess maybe 60 to 70 lines...Both the original and the one I purchased from LASAR are anodized which helps with wear. I can't see the Up-Lock block (on the floor) ever needing replaced unless it was broke or missing...looks like maybe 3 setups on 3 axis CNC machine
blob.png.e6e22f9c6c8a8f3f2c43c2fea72fad23.png


Awesome!! So we have a 3-D model of the part. We can 3D print it if we want to compare with the real part as a last check before we go to production. I can do that if we feel it is necessary and ship it to whoever is doing the verification. Then Sabremech uses his CNC shop to make the Parts??


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the one i did is just off a photo I had, there are no measurements. If I was doing them I would machine 1 for fit and adjust accordingly. Once the G-Code is proven I would machine them like this, the blue starts out as 10" x 17" x 1" (reference only), profile machine down leaving 100 thou or so, bandsaw them apart and machine the bottoms off (blue)in a fixture. 2 fixtures for the drilling operations, throw'm them in a tumbler and send them off for anodizing

blob.png.439ec874eadeb69ae8a70dcbac0cd6b3.png

Edited by RLCarter
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12 hours ago, RLCarter said:

Its an easy part to do, this was 3-D modeled (no measurements) in 30 minutes. I didn't generate the G-Code but I would guess maybe 60 to 70 lines...Both the original and the one I purchased from LASAR are anodized which helps with wear. I can't see the Up-Lock block (on the floor) ever needing replaced unless it was broke or missing...looks like maybe 3 setups on 3 axis CNC machine

blob.png.e6e22f9c6c8a8f3f2c43c2fea72fad23.png

Indeed the floor gear up block wears.  I’ve experienced the bar popping out many times.  It hurts when it strikes your lower arm and elbow areas.  

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Sending up a flag for those in the thread that expressed interest, if you have already contributed then please disregard.

https://www.gofundme.com/f/gear-down-lock-block

@ragedracer1977, @M20F-1968, @rbridges, @CWM20f, @67 m20F chump, @LunkenPilot@Raptor05121, @moodychief, @Jim Peace, @jwarren2, @Browncbr1, @Flybeech21, @Hector

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16 minutes ago, Skates97 said:

Sending up a flag for those in the thread that expressed interest, if you have already contributed then please disregard.

https://www.gofundme.com/f/gear-down-lock-block

@ragedracer1977, @M20F-1968, @rbridges, @CWM20f, @67 m20F chump, @LunkenPilot@Raptor05121, @moodychief, @Jim Peace, @jwarren2, @Browncbr1, @Flybeech21, @Hector

I think my wit and charm on this forum are payment enough.  :lol:

 

 

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