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door seals


larrynimmo

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17 minutes ago, GEE-BEE said:

Use tolulene, ebay 29.00 a gallon

wet some rags or paper in a roll and cover with plastic and tape down, the tolulene will desolve the 1300 l

 

I spend 3 hours to prep a door, and 35 minutes to install

clean

mask

apply cement to door, let dry or use hair dryer

apply small coat of cement to seal, use hairdryer to cure section

 

Continue in small sections

If I did extrude a door seal it would be grey silicone, clear silicone cement and it would look like the Beech style

GB

 

IMG_4079.jpg

early door seal 1.jpg

Which seal is this?

 

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On 10/29/2019 at 7:59 PM, PT20J said:

Byron,

Are you sure that's the correct seal? According to Brown's website, it's made from 60 durometer neoprene. 

BA-706-M-3S.jpg.3288e8e1f6c9ef11604f682d0dc4e5fb.jpg

My M20J IPC calls for BA-189-139 (which I cannot find on Brown's website) or an alternate T-9088 which is sponge neoprene. 

T-1025-3S.jpg.52dc9579f83529c0c4d67b333496d536.jpg

I'm interested because I need to replace my cabin door seal as well. I bought a Knots 2U seal but I'm not sure I like the cross section. Maybe someone that's used that one can chime in with their experience.

Skip

I called Brown Aircraft Supply and they confirmed that BA-189-139 has been superseded by T-9088.

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The T-9088 is a cheaper seal. It’s A sponge rubber P shape. The BA706-M is D shaped and has a foam core.  It looks similar to that Beech seal above.  
the BA706-M they have in stock is much stiffer than 60 durometer.  And I also had a 3 year old bag of the BA706-M which is the proper material. It’s compliant and soft, and has the proper shape. 
I’m not sure how a P shaped seal is going to seal a Mooney cabin door.  The void between the two is idea for the D shape. 

Edited by jetdriven
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We installed an inflatable seal about 20years ago. The tolerances were so close that it cannot be inflated with the door closed. At some point I removed the bulb and the inflatable seal just became a seal.  It has been wind and water tight since installation and has been very durable. We had a welt made in synthetic calf skin but it just finishes the off the the line between the door and the cabin. The door on our F model is just as weather tight any of our automobiles.

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I used some basic foam weatherstripping to help the door seal.  Amazing and inexpensive.  I followed the advice of people on here for that (I think Jose).

My wife no long feels a draft and it's much quieter in the cabin.  Best $4.00 I spent.

Yes, it may not be legally compliant.

-Seth

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8 hours ago, Hyett6420 said:

Are your automobiles Triumph TR7s then.  :)  

Nope, my rides are mostly German.  Besides, I’d never have a gutless TR7 with its puny 4 cyl because I know what  the TR6’s I6 sounds like at full song. :D;)Also, I’m not a glutton for punishment. One Triumph in the hangar is enough.

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10 minutes ago, GEE-BEE said:

Can I have a small sample of it

Gee-Bee / Guy

I already did that, cost me 100 bucks do you remember? It ended with you wanting me to pay for the tooling and round up 33 deposits to send to you  then you ghosted me.

 

 

Edited by jetdriven
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14 hours ago, Shadrach said:

Nope, my rides are mostly German.  Besides, I’d never have a gutless TR7 with its puny 4 cyl because I know what  the TR6’s I6 sounds like at full song. :D;)Also, I’m not a glutton for punishment. One Triumph in the hangar is enough.

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For a real glutton for punishment ,I had a triumph gt-6...what an adventure to drive not knowing when the distributor would suddenly fail.At night ,Lucas lighting was by way of flip the coin.I had poor success with women back than cause they hated the ride!!

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13 minutes ago, thinwing said:

For a real glutton for punishment ,I had a triumph gt-6...what an adventure to drive not knowing when the distributor would suddenly fail.At night ,Lucas lighting was by way of flip the coin.I had poor success with women back than cause they hated the ride!!

So you liquidated the GT-6 and have lived happily ever after !! :lol:

That’s just excellent!!!:P

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4 hours ago, thinwing said:

For a real glutton for punishment ,I had a triumph gt-6...what an adventure to drive not knowing when the distributor would suddenly fail.At night ,Lucas lighting was by way of flip the coin.I had poor success with women back than cause they hated the ride!!

I have pretty much mitigated a lot of the “charming” unreliability inherent in my old Triumph. That being said it’s good to ride with someone following you. They can pick up any parts that vibrate loose and fall off.

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6 minutes ago, Shadrach said:

They can pick up any parts that vibrate loose and fall off.

Like, for example, the tie-down loopy things that should be removed when not needed, as mentioned in some other thread? ;-)

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Did you get a lead hammer to go with the knock-offs too?

 

I don’t know when the KOs were no longer allowed in the US... many wheels had fake spinners to look like the KOs...

a spinner, with lug nuts was a quirky hint of something not right... :)

Best regards,

-a-

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1 hour ago, carusoam said:

Did you get a lead hammer to go with the knock-offs too?

 

I don’t know when the KOs were no longer allowed in the US... many wheels had fake spinners to look like the KOs...

a spinner, with lug nuts was a quirky hint of something not right... :)

Best regards,

-a-

I didn’t know they were illegal. Maybe by state?  Porsche GT3s are delivered from the factory with center locks. 

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Careful application of a thin layer of paint stripper takes the glue stuff off very easily. Wipe away with paper towels, clean up with a wet rag. Use vinyl gloves (HF) and maybe eye protection. Works like a charm. Goes fast. Baggage door took 1/2 hr. Clean up properly and nothing is left behind. 

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1 hour ago, Shadrach said:

I didn’t know they were illegal. Maybe by state?  Porsche GT3s are delivered from the factory with center locks. 

Could be a state regulation... the same place insisted on no racing stripes or visible numbers painted on...

not sure what they were keeping off the road... Ford Cobras from the 60s? :)

Best regards,

-a-

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My brother had a MGTD....cool louvered hood,wire wheels with KO s,convertible top with side curtains (leaky) and a t shaped starter handle .The main thing it was prone to breaking rear drive axles!,can you believe it....who would design a car with such an obvious defect....

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1 hour ago, carusoam said:

Could be a state regulation... the same place insisted on no racing stripes or visible numbers painted on...

not sure what they were keeping off the road... Ford Cobras from the 60s? :)

Best regards,

-a-

I wonder if that was early calif nanny state reg?Now the big thing is to carefully remove the white background paint leaving only the letters ,exposing shiny aluminum on license plates.Something to do with confusing all the red light cameras

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45 minutes ago, thinwing said:

My brother had a MGTD....cool louvered hood,wire wheels with KO s,convertible top with side curtains (leaky) and a t shaped starter handle .The main thing it was prone to breaking rear drive axles!,can you believe it....who would design a car with such an obvious defect....

If his TD had wire wheels, they were add-ons. They all had steel wheels originally. Of course, if the hood (actually bonnet) had louvers, they were added as well.The TF came with wire wheels. Strange about the axle problem. I had two TDs and raced one for several years and never broke an axle.

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I helped him twice fish out the broken splined section out of the differential which was really tricky operation.Bonnet definitely was louvered ,not positive on wheel type (I might be thinking of my 64 mg I had in high school)His model might have been a TF

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