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door seals


larrynimmo

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Just replaced the windlace material on cabin and baggage doors this week. MooneyMitch is correct, some interior panels and glareshield will have to be removed to access the screws that hold the windlace in place. I was able to drop the overhead panel down on the door side only and have enough room to work.  It is also easier to work by removing the co-pilot seat. The door mounted panels do not need to be removed.  Not knowing exactly what was involved, had to learn as I went along.  I bought 22' of material from Airtex at their recommendation.  I think it was 22' and had about 5' left over.  The first foot I did took a couple hours.  Last foot took about 20 minutes.  Total time about 8 hours.  Repair and repainting two panels, another piece of armrest upholstery, and all the other little things that get worked on while there not included.  I think this was the longest time spent in years working on an airplane without drawing blood. Of course a new puppy fixed that.

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2 hours ago, David Lloyd said:

Just replaced the windlace material on cabin and baggage doors this week. MooneyMitch is correct, some interior panels and glareshield will have to be removed to access the screws that hold the windlace in place. I was able to drop the overhead panel down on the door side only and have enough room to work.  It is also easier to work by removing the co-pilot seat. The door mounted panels do not need to be removed.  Not knowing exactly what was involved, had to learn as I went along.  I bought 22' of material from Airtex at their recommendation.  I think it was 22' and had about 5' left over.  The first foot I did took a couple hours.  Last foot took about 20 minutes.  Total time about 8 hours.  Repair and repainting two panels, another piece of armrest upholstery, and all the other little things that get worked on while there not included.  I think this was the longest time spent in years working on an airplane without drawing blood. Of course a new puppy fixed that.

More importantly what kind of puppy...

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We have a 15 lb. mixed terrier.  Wife wanted a companion for him. I relented saying don't get something that will be larger than him.  Chihuahua mix.  Right. In 6 weeks it has gone from 8 lbs. to 23.  Must be Chihuahua Grande.  It's gonna eat my new seats.

27 Pounds today, 10/31.  Thing grows overnight!

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Another possible option Larry......my last upholstery project..... I purchased welting cord alone and had an auto upholstery shop sew my material onto the cord, thereby matching my door welting exactly with my seat material color/ texture.

Funny photo content, but visible is the door welting/windlace.

9A87577A-EB8F-4DE4-8AA7-904E9675EF93.jpeg

Edited by MooneyMitch
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My 65C...

Failing door seal... + airtex door welting... = nice looking, and kept most of the wind noise out....

The original door welt was ragged, and the foam was rock hard and broken... falling apart...

First people that came for an airplane ride were terribly under impressed with my bird...

I was surprised how well the soft and pliable welting tried to act like a second door seal...

PP thoughts only, not a mechanic...

Best regards,

-a-

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1 hour ago, MooneyMitch said:

My interior welting does not interfere with door fitment.  

It’s quite possible a new door seal, installed on door or fuselage door frame, can cause door fitment when newly installed ( my experiences).

The seal that fits on the airframe (not OEM) has in their instructions to close and latch the door for a few days to help "seat" the seal. Very tight seal but will tear in a heartbeat regardless of how carefull you are

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I ordered a BA706-M seal from brown aircraft seals. This is the correct factory OEM door seal. However the one I received was thick rubber stiff and flat. Not D shaped. The circular foam piece is crushed by the stiff thick flat rubber. I called  them and told them the stuff is garbage and I think they’re making a new batch

452D0393-AF70-4011-B985-87561F3D4D7F.jpeg

F3184F50-DC1C-431F-BEB9-0101555B44FF.jpeg

81D03914-4E56-4FFE-8EFA-B3B3149C4524.jpeg

Edited by jetdriven
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13 hours ago, jetdriven said:

I ordered a BA706-M seal from brown aircraft seals. This is the correct factory OEM door seal. However the one I received was thick rubber stiff and flat. Not D shaped. The circular foam piece is crushed by the stiff thick flat rubber. I called  them and told them the stuff is garbage and I think they’re making a new batch

452D0393-AF70-4011-B985-87561F3D4D7F.jpeg

F3184F50-DC1C-431F-BEB9-0101555B44FF.jpeg

81D03914-4E56-4FFE-8EFA-B3B3149C4524.jpeg

Byron,

Are you sure that's the correct seal? According to Brown's website, it's made from 60 durometer neoprene. 

BA-706-M-3S.jpg.3288e8e1f6c9ef11604f682d0dc4e5fb.jpg

My M20J IPC calls for BA-189-139 (which I cannot find on Brown's website) or an alternate T-9088 which is sponge neoprene. 

T-1025-3S.jpg.52dc9579f83529c0c4d67b333496d536.jpg

I'm interested because I need to replace my cabin door seal as well. I bought a Knots 2U seal but I'm not sure I like the cross section. Maybe someone that's used that one can chime in with their experience.

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My only complaint on the one that goes on the airframe is how easy it gets torn up. When I first installed it I used a dollar bill to see how it fit (sealed) all the way around both doors, very good seal but I think I want to go back to the OEM style

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6 minutes ago, RLCarter said:

My only complaint on the one that goes on the airframe is how easy it gets torn up. When I first installed it I used a dollar bill to see how it fit (sealed) all the way around both doors, very good seal but I think I want to go back to the OEM style

I’ve heard that. The one I got is supposed to glue to the door. It has a V cross section rather than being hollow.  

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4 minutes ago, PT20J said:

I’ve heard that. The one I got is supposed to glue to the door. It has a V cross section rather than being hollow.  

I had to remove the 50 yr old glue from the doors when I changed mine, took a day and half screwing around with it. The original seal wasn't torn or deteriorated just smashed flat 

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7 minutes ago, RLCarter said:

I had to remove the 50 yr old glue from the doors when I changed mine, took a day and half screwing around with it. The original seal wasn't torn or deteriorated just smashed flat 

Yeah, that’s what I’ve got. It leaks air at the bottom in flight. My glue is only 25 years old so maybe it will be easier to remove:P

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