59Moonster Posted September 13, 2019 Report Share Posted September 13, 2019 10 hours ago, Andy95W said: I don't think I would be so quick to swap out a generator, and I don't really agree with Chris (unless you base your airplane at Teterboro). Andy95W thanks for that insight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeph357 Posted September 13, 2019 Report Share Posted September 13, 2019 10 hours ago, carusoam said: Expect plane power has an alternator for the O360... You will want to check with them if it has been STCd for the M20A... I can’t think of any reasons it can’t be... The alternators go in the same space as the generator and are much smaller... The corresponding VR will occupy the same space as the generator’s sticks and stones and springs VR... Unfortunately, when I looked this up moments ago... I only found this... https://planepower.aero/aircraft-alternator-support/application-information/?ma=Mooney International Corporation&mo=M20A About the alternator operations.... they do produce power down at low rpms... but, it is pretty low and climbs with rpms until it produces max power... still much better than the generator. Just a new set of limitations... At idle, my generator will show a discharge with everything in the panel running... at 1000rpm there is plenty of power to run everything... Some Logic is required... to not drag the brakes, or speed down the taxiway... but at least you know things are working before departure... PP thoughts only, not a mechanic... definitely check with planepower and your mechanic to see how this can be done for your M20A... See if the other M20A owners have a solution.... Best regards, -a- I agree with this post. That is the correct alternator kit SAL 12-70 (for the O-360 and Io-360) The STC allows to keep the 50amp breaker or upgrade the cable to it and change it out to 70amp... Posted on another thread to get a plug in cigarette lighter voltmeter (with usb charging ports of course) because IMO knowing volts is more relevant than amps. A quick look at the voltmeter tells you where your battery is, before start 12V after start should be in the 14V range then you know you are supplying whatever you need. Mine reads 14.1V no matter how much I have on. I swapped to this kit and am happy. Generator would've been a lot cheaper but charging at the lower RPM is awesome. As is the 4 extra LBS in UL I was able to get. The only part I disagree with is " but, it is pretty low and climbs with rpms until it produces max power..." This has not been my experience at all. Once my engine is running my battery is charging this is where the plug in voltmeter comes into play. The ammeter may show 0 or a negative but if your reading volts and the reading is >12V you know all that the needs of the electrical system are being met and you have more power than required because there is no draw on the battery. Also with the STC there is a switch (to test) and a light. The light illuminates when the alternator is not producing power to the buss. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carusoam Posted September 14, 2019 Report Share Posted September 14, 2019 Jeph, One thing you can do... get the data sheet that is available for the generator or alternator in question... They have a performance graph that will show rpm vs current produced... There probably isn’t more than five pages of reading for each device... The tech data will show why the red alternator light on the panel has a tendency to light during low rpms with your plane’s electrical load... I am in agreement with you up to a point... my analog voltage indicator is a terrible method of knowing if my amps are positive or negative... just not enough accuracy, or precision... I need to get a newer JPI or one of those nifty cigarette lighter deals... Best regards, -a- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LucasC Posted October 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2019 On 9/11/2019 at 4:12 PM, 0TreeLemur said: Did you install a refurbed generator or did you convert to an alternator? The generator on my C doesn't really seem to contribute many electrons until about 1700 rpms too. -Thx. Refurbed generator from aircraft spruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N201MKTurbo Posted October 11, 2019 Report Share Posted October 11, 2019 Generators must be disconnected from the battery when they aren't generating any power. If they didn't have this feature it would rapidly discharge the battery with the engine off. A generator regulator has a contact called the cutout relay that connects the generator to the battery. The adjustment of this contact determines what RPM the generator comes on line at as much as the generator. The cut in is determined by the voltage output of the generator and the spring pressure of the relay. The cut out is determined by a current reversal in the charging circuit. The regulator should be adjusted to come online at the specified voltage. I just did all these adjustments along with the voltage regulator relay and current limit relay on a 1951 Willys jeep. It works way better now! http://www.ruiter.ca/mc/info/PDFs/1R-116.pdf 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0TreeLemur Posted October 15, 2019 Report Share Posted October 15, 2019 On 10/11/2019 at 11:38 AM, N201MKTurbo said: Generators must be disconnected from the battery when they aren't generating any power. If they didn't have this feature it would rapidly discharge the battery with the engine off. A generator regulator has a contact called the cutout relay that connects the generator to the battery. The adjustment of this contact determines what RPM the generator comes on line at as much as the generator. The cut in is determined by the voltage output of the generator and the spring pressure of the relay. The cut out is determined by a current reversal in the charging circuit. The regulator should be adjusted to come online at the specified voltage. I just did all these adjustments along with the voltage regulator relay and current limit relay on a 1951 Willys jeep. It works way better now! http://www.ruiter.ca/mc/info/PDFs/1R-116.pdf What a cool document. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carusoam Posted October 16, 2019 Report Share Posted October 16, 2019 Holy cow! MKTurbo has found it! The magic of how to properly adjust the sticks and stones and springs voltage regulator that is used on the Mooney with a generator! Unfortunately the sticks and stones aren’t properly depicted in their drawings! See if that can be loaded up into shared files area...? Download section? Somebody that has the original VR can probably use it.... Best regards, -a- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesm Posted October 17, 2019 Report Share Posted October 17, 2019 Great post N201MKTurbo Boy where was that document when I needed it 20 plus years ago I couldn't find hardly any information. That my rational to going to a Zeftronics Voltage regulator then when I had the prop off I switched to Plane Power Alternator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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