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Getting closer to IO-360-A3B6 swap from IO-360-A3B6D, am I missing anything?


jkarch

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7 hours ago, jkarch said:

Dan at LASAR said the same thing. I can scavenge from my old engine. It’s probably a part I could produce as an owner produced part in my machine shop. It’s basically a clamp that holds the cable in place right?

I talked to LASAR, Top Gun and Maxwell when planning my conversion. By far, Maxwell had done the most conversions. Don was the only one to give me a complete and accurate list of parts required. When I asked him how he did that, he said, in his east Texan way, "It's all in the IPC." And, he's right. All the part numbers are in the IPC if you read it carefully. The problem is that there are no drawings for the A3B6 installation, so you have to figure out a few things for yourself, like rotating the oil cooler 180 degrees.

By far the most confusing part from reading many posts is the prop governor installation. You need to get the new bracket, clamps, bellcrank and spacer. I detailed it pretty well toward the end of this thread: 

 

Skip

 

 

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On 8/8/2019 at 7:36 PM, PT20J said:

I talked to LASAR, Top Gun and Maxwell when planning my conversion. By far, Maxwell had done the most conversions. Don was the only one to give me a complete and accurate list of parts required. When I asked him how he did that, he said, in his east Texan way, "It's all in the IPC." And, he's right. All the part numbers are in the IPC if you read it carefully. The problem is that there are no drawings for the A3B6 installation, so you have to figure out a few things for yourself, like rotating the oil cooler 180 degrees.

By far the most confusing part from reading many posts is the prop governor installation. You need to get the new bracket, clamps, bellcrank and spacer. I detailed it pretty well toward the end of this thread: 

 

Skip

 

 

That’s interesting about the oil cooler rotation. Dan said don’t install fiftings on the oil cooler till installed. I’ll keep an eye out for the prop governor. Dan said the old fittings work fine and there is no need for these but I’m curious  to whether the modworks mount is different than the Mooney mount afterwards.

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2 hours ago, jkarch said:

My oil cooler was corroded so I bought a new one from Pacific oil cooler service in CA. Unfortunately I’m stuck with 20 degree timing on slicks until I get the Electroair or lycoming or surefly ignition upgrade in a few years 

You can put on Bendix mags and/or get 25 degrees of timing too. 

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  • 1 year later...
On 8/7/2019 at 3:15 PM, jkarch said:

So this part is a bit confusing. Going through the forum about the IO360 conversion experience I saw reference to  part number 660017-003 and 670017-005 for cable clamp halves. Are these the same as the A3B6D?  Dan at LASAR did not tell me about these. Also I used the “modworks” bracket 660117-000, is that different than the official Mooney bracket and therefore compatible with the original clamps?

I just finished delivery on my conversion to A3B6 from the D to include a Surefly mag. Prior to starting the conversion I had read most of the conversion threads but not this one. The shop did the conversion without my participation but I did provide the installer with all the pictures from dhc's excellent post in 2015 showing how the prop bracket should be installed.

 https://mooneyspace.com/topic/15898-m20j-io-360-a3b6-conversion-experience/

 

For the governor bracket the shop used bracket 660117-000. The pictures in dhc's post show his bracket mounted vertically as the correct orientation and also shows a picture of the bracket mounted horizontally as an incorrect orientation.  Mine has been mounted horizontally. I have flown the airplane for 2.5 hrs and the prop control seems to work OK. The governor needs to be adjusted slightly since I am getting only 2650 rpm. The other difference between the old and new is the prop control has about 1/2 inch more control shaft showing between the control kob and the dash. In other words, the control knob does not go as far in as before. My question is, should I be concerned about the orientation of the governor mounting bracket if the installation? It does seem to be functioning properly. 

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1 hour ago, rotorman said:

... The other difference between the old and new is the prop control has about 1/2 inch more control shaft showing between the control kob and the dash. In other words, the control knob does not go as far in as before. My question is, should I be concerned about the orientation of the governor mounting bracket if the installation? It does seem to be functioning properly. 

Generally there should only be about 1/8" of "cushion" for the last bit of travel on the engine controls, with the control at the device hitting its limit stop prior to the control in the cockpit reaching full travel.   It sounds like your prop control is not rigged properly if you have more than 1/2" of travel left when the governor hits the high-rpm stop.   

I just replaced my prop cable not very long ago and it is a royal pita in my airplane (a J with quadrant controls) to get to everything for proper rigging, especially for the propeller cable.   If it is anything similar in yours they may have left it just because it is difficult to do.    FWIW, it is not supposed to be like that and asking for it to be done correctly is not out of line, imho.

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  • 2 months later...

Problem with my A3B6D conversion.

The governor bracket, 660235-001, that most on MS have used is not available. The one Lasar is using mounts horizontally under the oil filter. The bracket is very similar to the bracket for the A3B6D in the drawing two posts above but oriented 180 degrees to the one shown. This position forces the control cable to push against the governor control arm at an acute angle with no angle remaining before the arm reaches the pitch stop. In other words the cable and control arm are parallel to each other before the governor reaches its stop and the cable is fully extended. The way I understand a recommendation Skip made in 2018 is there is an adjustment. This is his quote: "The prop control needs to be able to reach the high speed stop on the governor with some cushion before hitting the instrument panel per the Mooney Service Manual. To properly adjust the control arm DO NOT loosen the clamp screw and rotate the arm. This will mess up the internal governor settings. Instead, loosen the 6 screws on the back of the governor and rotate the whole control arm assembly as required and then tighten the screws." 

In my case I would need to rotate the arm about one screw over to get a sufficient angle between the arm and the cable to reach the pitch stop. Looking at the below drawing, wouldn't that change the speeder spring tension?

As an aside, with the Lasar bracket we are not using part 50b in the drawing two posts above.

 

 

 

Governor.PNG

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56 minutes ago, rotorman said:

In my case I would need to rotate the arm about one screw over to get a sufficient angle between the arm and the cable to reach the pitch stop. Looking at the below drawing, wouldn't that change the speeder spring tension?

The way Dan at West Coast Governor Service explained it to me is that the whole internal assembly rotates when you do this so it doesn’t change any settings. You might give him a call if you have any concerns. He’s very helpful and it’s always better to talk to someone with experience.

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