SantosDumont

How do I figure out which baffle I have?

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My LH baffle has a crack that I want to repair. It looks like someone had already tried to repair it with a doubler, and that cracked. 

Thinking it might be better to just buy the new part and install it, but I’m not sure how to figure out which part it is. 

Its the TCM IO-360-ES so I’m thinking it might match one of the baffles from the M20K IPC, since the M20K has a TSIO-IO-360  

Looks like there are two different LH baffles in the IPC: 600380-029 and 600410-501. 

Googling those part numbers doesn’t seem to have any useful results, and not even a parts search on LASAR turns up anything. 

Am I just going to have to take it off, model it in Solidworks and get it laser cut out of aluminum?

 

 

7F18D627-6403-448A-BCB8-53D16297A0AD.jpeg

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Since ModWorks got their hands on it in 1998, made a STC that was installed on two M20Fs then went out of business.

Having to reverse engineer a few things...

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Do you have the STC drawings? The FAA should have the drawings if you don't have a copy. They should have the baffle part numbers. 

There are companies out there that make aftermarket baffles. They would be a good resource.

I would just fix it.

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I dont have a complete set of the drawings.  I ordered the FAA CD and was hoping they would be on there, but they are not...  not sure who to contact to see if the FAA has the drawings. 

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3 minutes ago, SantosDumont said:

I dont have a complete set of the drawings.  I ordered the FAA CD and was hoping they would be on there, but they are not...  not sure who to contact to see if the FAA has the drawings. 

Call the FSDO and ask to talk to a maintenance inspector. Ask them for advice.

What is the STC number?

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There is nothing very difficult in repairing what I see there. Any good sheet metal A&P can disassemble the item, make a new piece that is cracked and rerivet it all together. Sheet metal wasn't my forte but even I can do that one. You might be going to a lot more trouble than needed by trying for the STC parts. 

Actually one might just try stop drilling the crack and see if it progresses over the next 100 hrs. Might just work out fine that way. In any event, it is a super simple sheet metal repair.

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That does look just like the M20K baffling.
It's possible the part no's are different parts of the same assembly or one is the full assembly and another is the just the top part - flat section.

The full assembly includes several parts - vertical portion that attaches to cylinders, horizontal portion that has cracks and felible baffling material. You just want to replace the horizontal portion. Call Dan at Lasar and he can order the piece from Mooney for you.

Your rear silicone baffling looks totally ineffective - time to replace.


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Checking to see if Santos @SantosDumontgot the last messages in this thread...

Air flow control is important for CHTs

So chasing cracks in the baffling can be pretty important...

So can the rubber seals that are important to the baffling process...

Santos, it looks like part of the rubber seals may have left the building... :)

There is some rubber that appears as if it is no longer there...

@GEE-BEE is MS’s rubber seal and baffling guy... take a look at some of his pics... to see what seems to have departed your air cooling system...

The modern silicone rubber seals that are orange-ish in color are high temp and long lasting...

Sorry about being late on this thread... I fell behind in some reading during KOSH... :)

Expect that the K might have very similar baffling and seals to match your Continental installation... with your K cowl...

You might also see what Missile and Rocket owners have done...  all mid body Mooneys with K cowls... that match the Continental six cylinder engine block...

PP thoughts only, not a mechanic...

Best regards,

-a-

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The baffle on top is actually just bent over.  When I look in with a flash light I can see it touching the top of the cowl.  Need to put a flashlight in the bottom of the cowl to see if I can see any light coming through.

The baffling is 20 years old though.  Probably time to replace it.

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