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Lasar windshield stc


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4 hours ago, gsxrpilot said:

I'm pretty sure SWTA would be willing to sell the STC's (molds, tooling, etc) to anyone who'd like to bring them back to the market. 

I though something got destroyed in a flood or something and that is why Russell stopped doing them

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8 hours ago, RLCarter said:

I though something got destroyed in a flood or something and that is why Russell stopped doing them

I remember Russel saying that the quantity and cost of plexiglass that he had to buy from his supplier made it prohibitive.

Clarence

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6 hours ago, M20Doc said:

I remember Russel saying that the quantity and cost of plexiglass that he had to buy from his supplier made it prohibitive.

Clarence

There is no reason for the STC holder to provide the plexiglass as part of the package.  The STC should be written to use a Mooney part number from the 20J that the user can purchase from one of the window suppliers.  It just adds multiple shipping costs and mark-up to purchase the window from the STC holder.

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4 hours ago, TTaylor said:

There is no reason for the STC holder to provide the plexiglass as part of the package.  The STC should be written to use a Mooney part number from the 20J that the user can purchase from one of the window suppliers.  It just adds multiple shipping costs and mark-up to purchase the window from the STC holder.

You’d have to discuss that with the STC holder.

Clarence

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  • 2 weeks later...

9564m is under the knife now.  Pictures to follow.

 

I just realized that I’ll be needing a new canopy cover to fit this windshield.  Does anyone have a lightly used one to part with?    I have a MAC’s cover now which isn’t the greatest, but is acceptable. 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Now that the basic annual is done, I turned to the windshield today.  It took me about 2 hours to take the interior trims and all the screw and nuts off around the windshield.  I numbered the retainer clips and set those aside.  The previous owner had clearly replaced the windshield at some point, as it was put on with silicone caulk. In any case, pulled the retainer strips up and the windshield is out.   Will post more progress early next week.  So far, this is easy. 

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To me the hardest part would be actually starting the cut to remove the top portion of the skin, not much turning back after that 
It took me a whole day to install an antenna in the roof of my tow truck. My wife still laughs at me about that! I could only imagine cutting into my plane

Sent from my E6910 using Tapatalk

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@Dream to fly I was in the Motorcyle Industry, I had a customer that questioned my labor quote to install a rack on his tail trunk, I went and got my drill and told him "Don't screw up, the lid is $600 bucks" ..... :). I recently installed a GPS antenna on my Mooney and another one on a 172....... I did the 172 1st for practice.....lol

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Lots of drilling out rivets today.  Kinda slow going after that.  Drilled a few more rivets to remove the defrost plenum.  I haven’t started cutting the deck yet, as I was vacillating on how much to cut away as well as planning for a few other things.  

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The copper tubes and brass fittings that are supplied by lasar are a joke.   They look like Mickey Mouse plumbing toys.  I’ll be plumbing with blue nut flared fittings and aluminum tube similar to what another MSer did a few years ago.  

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On 7/2/2019 at 6:26 PM, Glenn said:

@Browncbr1You have me mixed up with someone else.  I installed one 430W a year after I did the windshield mod, and one a year after that.  I never had water damage.  I have skinned my knuckles working behind the panel since the mod.

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That's a serious turn you've got going there.

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After 3 days away, was able to get back to the shop today.  

I cut the sub panel back and got it cleaned up.  Relocated 6 grounding terminals..  Got the new cowl deck in a good spot and fit windshield to see where to trim the top of cabin away.   You can see the first cut was conservative just so we could get the windshield under the skin for a closer test fit, then trimmed further to blend the radius. 

I trimmed the cowl deck some after setting final position with two cleakos on each side.  

Photos of final trimmed deck and cabin will come later.  

Next time I’m there, will work on the hydro plumbing, then can move on to putting it all together. 

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2 hours ago, Browncbr1 said:

Today, I built out the defrost nozzles and plumbed new CAT hose.  I also fabricated some shims that go on the side skin, riveted those in place and drilled the front of the cowl deck.

 

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Looks good!  When it comes to drilling the holes in the windshield I used Johnson paste floor wax as a lubricant for the drill bits.  I’d did not buy the “special” bits, once I had a #30 hole I used sharp reamers to enlarge the holes.  I used wax on the piloted countersink bit when countersinking the windshield assuming the screws are countersunk.  

The screw holes in the windshield should be larger than the screw diameter, leaving room for expansion and contraction.

Practice your technique on your old windshield first.

Clarence

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Today, I drilled out the side rivets and drilled more rivet holes on the side of the deck and pulled it back off to trim the front excess material and for acid etching and zinc.   I was hoping that some hardware would have arrived today to complete the hydraulic plumbing, but it should arrive tomorrow.  So, I went ahead and painted the deck, sub panel, and center post.    The original magnet compass bracket is no good, so I started to fabricate a new one, then had to go watch the kids play soccer.  

Tomorrow, I’ll fit the windshield for drilling.   I will not dimple the new holes at the top until after accurately drilling the windshield, as dimples will skew the location.   Once the holes are drilled, I’ll pull the windshield off and over drill and countersink.   Hopefully, by then the hydraulic plumbing will arrive and I can get that done and finally hit the rivets down on the deck.  

 

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Today, I did a final fit of the windshield and drilled all pilot holes using a skinny step bit.  Step bit is definitely the way to go.  I definitely recommend clecos on the windshield as the fit isn’t perfect without some pressure in areas.  I’m told it will relax after some time in the hot sun.   Pulled windshield off and counter sunk ...  the front holes are not counter sunk as much as the holes that are on the cabin side in order to account for dimpled material.   I dimpled the new holes at the top of the cabin and after some deliberation decided to put nut plates along the entire front of the cowl deck where the windshield is held down.   I just thought later on down the road, I wouldn’t want to be fighting doing a two person job to the the tiny nuts on and off if the windshield ever needs replacing.    The extra work now will pay off later.  

I also fabricated a new bracket for the magnetic compass and painted is black, as well as the fiberglass glare shield.  

I hope to get the cowl deck fully riveted on and windshield installed tomorrow.  

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