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Fuel flow/pressure transducer


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I went through all the paperwork that I received from the previous owner and I found the Shadin STCs, install instructions, and drawings.  Here are the relevant diagram and instructions.

It looks like Jetdriven's install is 100% per the manual.  I suspect that mine was done right originally but when the engine was replaced, someone just did what appeared to make sense when putting it all back together.

I wish I could be certain that the hose length between the FF transducer and the servo is 17".  I'd just have Spruce fabricate a new set, get some new AN816-6 fittings to eliminate the 45-degree on the inlet, and get this looking nice.  I suppose if I'm going to that kind of trouble, I'd replace the transducer, too.  This one has been cooked long enough.

Can anyone confirm these dimensions on an A3B6D?

Cliff

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On 7/12/2019 at 2:00 PM, PT20J said:

Shadin’s website has a manuals with instructions for adjusting the K-factor. 

And it is a pain in the a$$ to change as you have to pull the unit out of the panel and change some dip switches to adjust, then change the dip switches back and reinstall it in the panel (several times before it is fine tuned) (Mini-Flo)

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On 7/13/2019 at 6:57 AM, FlyBoyM20J said:

OR75 is correct - I looked at what it would take to move the FF transducer closer to the sump and lower down on the intake tubes.  It seems that the fuel hose connecting the output of the FF transducer to the servo is simply too long. 

I was able to add some Adel clamps and get about 3/4" of clearance from the C4 riser but I would like to get this done properly.  These are all nice, certified fire hoses but I think I'd be more comfortable replacing them.  If I can make out the "Cure Date" on the metal band on the hose that that is so long it's forcing the FF transducer towards the exhaust, I believe it is 2004. 

The hose on the other side going to the FP transducer has been resting on the C1 intake tube forever and has a dent in the fireproof material at that point.  I think something else should be done there, too.

Anyone have a picture of how that side of things should be done, too? 

@jetdriven I see that you have posted about 124J hoses a lot over time and I'll start by researching what you've written already.

And when you suggest a heat shield, are you talking about one of these?

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/clamponHeatShield.php

Thanks,

Cliff

No, we tried that, it burns away. These won’t. 

https://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/exhaust_shield_4_4.php

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3 minutes ago, jetdriven said:

No, we tried that, it burns away. These won’t. 

https://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/exhaust_shield_4_4.php

I see...well, I ordered the clamp-on kind just b/c it looked easy to install but I'll see if I can cancel it now.

This kind looks like it needs to be spot-welded on...or do you clamp it through those loops?

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On 7/14/2019 at 1:11 PM, FlyBoyM20J said:

I see...well, I ordered the clamp-on kind just b/c it looked easy to install but I'll see if I can cancel it now.

This kind looks like it needs to be spot-welded on...or do you clamp it through those loops?

You use two metal hose clamps. Around the pipe and through the loop.  Works great. 

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7 hours ago, jetdriven said:

You use two metal hose clamps. Around the pipe and through the loop.  Works great. 

Perfect, thanks!

I'm going to get the new hoses and FF transducer, fittings, firesleeve, etc. first so that I can get the transducer secured near the sump and as far from the C4 riser as possible.  Then I should have the clearance to add this heat shield.

Cliff

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3 hours ago, FlyBoyM20J said:

Perfect, thanks!

I'm going to get the new hoses and FF transducer, fittings, firesleeve, etc. first so that I can get the transducer secured near the sump and as far from the C4 riser as possible.  Then I should have the clearance to add this heat shield.

Cliff

The outlet fitting on the fuel pump is adjustable. You can clock it forward or slight up to effectively shorten the hose from the outlet fitting to the servo inlet, in order to provide the necessary clearance.

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1 hour ago, jetdriven said:

The outlet fitting on the fuel pump is adjustable. You can clock it forward or slight up to effectively shorten the hose from the outlet fitting to the servo inlet, in order to provide the necessary clearance.

Good to know...I'm sure that will be helpful at assembly time.  Thanks again!

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