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Need Hangar Build Advice


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9 hours ago, DualRatedFlyer said:

Laying out plans to build a hanger and could use some advice/lessons learned/wisdom from those that have been down this path before as I am out of my element.

This engineer specializes in hangar homes, may be worth taking a look.

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My hangar (pole barn) is 60w x 42d. Would love to have the 50d, especially when(if) I get my Stinson finished. Housing Mooney and Christen Eagle now plus  work room. 14’ walls with a 12x48 door. It’s the Ultimate Door which I built for maybe $600 27 years ago. Cost effective but it’s only for weather protection, not security. Here in snow country sliders are a problem every spring as the frost goes out. Skylights have gone out of favor in recent years. LED fluorescent style lights are great.

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My hangar is 50x50x14.   I love the stack doors.  I can open mine quicker than my neighbor can open his bi-fold.  And they let in a lot of light and its easy to open a panel or two to regulate temperature.  I used Cooper Hibay led fixtures and have 50 fc on the floor.  I have running water but no toilet since it’s not too far to the house.  The 50x50 is big enough for my Mooney and Citabria, my sons boat trailer and my workshop.  Lee

516A7A6D-5592-4676-9795-D61E2FB91FCD.jpeg

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5 hours ago, M20Doc said:

The lift is a 2 post car lift which I modified to support the RV4.  

Clarence

My ass puckers just raising my aircraft on jacks, raising one that high would require medical attention 

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I have built 20 hangars, and some comments:

1) Look at the layout of you site, a nice big rollup door on the side or back is really useful.

2) Doors and clearspan are expensive, so don't write of the 50Wx60D yet.  two planes in a row  will fit into a 60 ft deep.  50W is plenty for most private aircraft.  I prefer having door full width so it ties nicely in with the walls.

3) Bifold without doubt.  Schweiss or Hifold have served me well.  Makes a nice shade awning when its open.  I prefer not having a man-door in them, but you do need a man-door near the front of the hangar.  

4) look for a manufacturer that can supply you with a pre-engineered package.  Saves a lot on cost.

Aerodon

 

 

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I have the man door, in the full width bifold door... It is a bit goofy entering and exiting when you just open the main door a bit to allow air flow in...

Of course... my door barely allows the Mooney wings to pass...

Room for two planes....?  See how many Lancair boxes you can fit in the extra space.... :)

+1 for the printed scale drawings of plane, doors, floor space, and people... called the paper doll method for machine floor layouts...

Don’t forget your emergency exits, and fire extinguisher locations...

 

PP thoughts only...

Best regards,

-a-

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7 hours ago, laytonl said:

My hangar is 50x50x14.   I love the stack doors.  I can open mine quicker than my neighbor can open his bi-fold.  And they let in a lot of light and its easy to open a panel or two to regulate temperature.  I used Cooper Hibay led fixtures and have 50 fc on the floor.  I have running water but no toilet since it’s not too far to the house.  The 50x50 is big enough for my Mooney and Citabria, my sons boat trailer and my workshop.  Lee

516A7A6D-5592-4676-9795-D61E2FB91FCD.jpeg

Very nice Lee!

Clarence

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7 hours ago, RLCarter said:

My ass puckers just raising my aircraft on jacks, raising one that high would require medical attention 

It’s really not scary at all, takes about 30 seconds up or down.  I had more concerns drilling holes for the anchor bolts in the hydronic floor.  Luckily I didn’t hit any tubes.

Clarence 

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Don't forget about plumbing and wiring for multiple electric outlets and plugins for compressed air. You might also designe some extra square footage on the exterior of the slab to house your compressor nice and quiet that way. Have fun with your project 

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You want at least a 45’ wide door, AT6 has 42.5’ wingspan.
I would also go with a door tall enough to fit an Aerocommander tail. Talk to builder sometimes the sweet spot for hanger wall eave height might be 14’ or 16’ or 18k. Ie cost difference maybe pennies to go taller.

Down here in North Texas you really want the main door opening to face south, blocks hot sun, and cold winds. South is also our prevailing wind, so a overhead door on the north side of the hangar for RV(retirement vehicle) access allows cross flow ventilation. Make sure a pedestrian door is nearby to both doors, and that they are all visible from house or neighbors.

A toilet and water is a necessity.
Can also have bathroom build as a concrete block FEMA tornado shelter, if those are ever a problem in your area.

Insulation is easier done in construction than retro fit.

I don’t like rolling doors, you have to either push-pull a plane over the track, or you have a cavity type track you have to vacuum out.. I’d prefer a bifold, hydroswing, or a tip up door.

A hangar I recently visited, had car lifts, a full kitchen.
A built in pressure washer, hot water hose bibs.

You can go all out with plumbed air hose connections etc etc.

Look at the Drago guy’s hangar, he has a car mounted on one wall, with a board/meeting room.

If you are up north headed floors are handy too.

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I have a 50x50 hangar attached to my house in our airpark.  If height is not restricted, then you can have sidewalls that can accommodate a second floor office, or just storage above a lower level office/bathroom/or inclosed workshop.  A RV sized door is nice to have plus people doors on front and back.  I have water hose connections at the back next to the big door for car washes.  My AC/heater is from a AC shop that took it in on a trade so they couldn't sell it as new.  My door is a Highlift and I'm happy with it and is cheaper that some of the others.  I expoxied the floor when new and wouldn't have it any other way, but don't cut corners on the materials.  Also, my local Kelly Moore rents a bead blaster and is so much better than an acid wash to etch the concrete.  I used 3" roll insulation, but wish I had gone with closed cell spray foam with a painted top coat as it is really tough and tightens the building up.  I installed the 8' wall on the inside and didn't add that much to the total cost and you can hide wiring and also protects the insulation.  Hope some of this helps.  Here's some pics.

DonIMG_0650.JPG.cdefaea59a3bbe2bfafea7969d21d198.JPG 

IMG_0053.JPG

IMG_0050.JPG

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What is a rough estimate of what a 50x50 hangar costs to build?


Tom


My airport is allowing privately built 60X60 hangars to be built. Basic insulated building with bi-fold door, cement floor, power and water run to the hangar but not connected are coming in at $350,000 per hangar.


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I was just looking at a new 46×56 with a heated floor and steel sheated walls and ceiling.  Same metal as the outside . Wood framed insulated walls and ceiling.  Sweet lights , nice 40 foot door .  185,000 no water or sewer connections. 

I think the restroom is a deal breaker for me .

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An awful lot of the price is the floor. How thick does your state require the floor to be, how deep does your building code require the footers to be dug, how deep must power, water and drain lines be dug, etc. Thsre is no limit to what can be paid for interior finishing and detailing, either.

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2 hours ago, Hank said:

An awful lot of the price is the floor. How thick does your state require the floor to be, how deep does your building code require the footers to be dug, how deep must power, water and drain lines be dug, etc. Thsre is no limit to what can be paid for interior finishing and detailing, either.

All excellent questions.  Being in the land development business I could never buy with out being involved in the construction.  I have been talking with my framer about building one. 

 In Idaho 32 inches is code .  We usually like 3 ' minimum.  Now you got me thinking,  let me get my concrete calculator. 

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3 hours ago, Dan208 said:

All excellent questions.  Being in the land development business I could never buy with out being involved in the construction.  I have been talking with my framer about building one. 

 In Idaho 32 inches is code .  We usually like 3 ' minimum.  Now you got me thinking,  let me get my concrete calculator. 

I hope you're talking footer depth . . . What floor thickness is required? When I lived on the Ohio River, WV only needed 4", but across the river in Ohio hangar floors had to be 12" thick. Quite a cost difference.

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Yes , bottom of footing to grade 32'' minimum.  I always just go 36 '' . Slab thickness is 6'' as far as I know , but that is just because  3/4 inch pex in a 4 inch slab is to close for comfort. I will look into that . I dont even think a concrete floor would be " required" unless the airport had specific requirements.  

A 12 " thick floor is insane, wow.

Now I am going to start calling around .  Am I going about this wrong wanting a hangar before buying a plane ? The rent is outrageous where I need to be , if even available. 

Edited by Dan208
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Yes , bottom of footing to grade 32'' minimum.  I always just go 36 '' . Slab thickness is 6'' as far as I know , but that is just because  3/4 inch pex in a 4 inch slab is to close for comfort. I will look into that . I dont even think a concrete floor would be " required" unless the airport had specific requirements.  

A 12 " thick floor is insane, wow.

Now I am going to start calling around .  Am I going about this wrong wanting a hangar before buying a plane ? The rent is outrageous where I need to be , if even available. 

I would go 12” if you plan on parking heavy RVs or other heavy equipment...if just a plane or normal vehicles, that is insane.

 

 

Tom

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