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Rear bulkhead clips for tow bar?


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I'm getting my Airtex interior in a few weeks, and I'd like to clip my towbar in the back.  I got this one from Aircraft Spruce.  

Does anyone have any pics of how they stow their towbar, and how they installed it with the new baggage area carpeting, preferably from Airtex so I can get a 1:1 comparison?

Thanks!

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I can’t say what I use since I have yet to own an airplane. I am volunteer firefighter and we have spring loaded friction mounts that I’m trying to locate but I also came across http://quickfistclamps.com/quickfist/Products.aspx that looks like they’d possibly work for you.

 

 

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My onboard toolbox is a Rubbermaid container in the back. The towbar, collapsed, lives on the floor with it, actually between the Rubbermaid bin and the far baggage wall.

When traveling, after preflighting I remove the towbar, load everything up then wedge the towbar in somewhere behind the back seat; it's usually not difficult finding a spot. 

Then when I need it upon landing, the towbar is accessible, and there is no obstruction by a clamp when loading baggage.

Note: I measured the baggage door and took my tape measure to the Samsonite outlet, bought my wife the largest lightweight rollaround that would fit through. It must go in at an angle about perpendicular to the skin, and it must go in first.

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I keep my original factory towbar either on the floor in the backseat, in the baggage area under the securing straps or in the baggage area tucked all the way forwards behind the back seats.  I fly without bags most of the time, and I don't want the towbar flying forwards in a sudden deceleration.  I'd worry about putting the on the back wall of the baggage compartment.

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I have one of those tow bars.  Welded a nut inside so you can screw a bolt into it to keep it from slipping out of the nose wheel tube.  It will slip out at the worst possible time.

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5 minutes ago, Floyd said:

I have one of those tow bars.  Welded a nut inside so you can screw a bolt into it to keep it from slipping out of the nose wheel tube.  It will slip out at the worst possible time.

That would have to be a BIG honking bolt and nut?? :o  I mean, the tube is like 1" ID or something, right?

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The LB gets some ‘special’ treatment for its tow bar...

  • It is extra long, so it has a hinge to fold in half...
  • It has an extra tube extension inside the nose wheel tube... with a hole that can be used to lock the tow bar in place...
  • some kind of thin rubber wheels on the handle for some reason... to not mar the floor when pushing back at the wing...
  • Fancy chrome finished

With all that thought put into the tow bar... i’ll Have to check and see if there is any special mounting brackets in the baggage area for it.

Best regards,

-a-

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I am surprised so many still using the OEM style towbar. They're terrible and do slide off. I suffered with mine for years till I learned about the Bogert tow bar for the Mooneys. It's far superior and lighter - it's design doesn't require being made out of heavy steel.
https://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/bogibars2.php?clickkey=5939697

No relationship with them, just very satisfied with it's much more secure and light weight design.


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In my case the previous owner had weld on extension to the OEM tow bar and drilled hole one the end  you can sort see it in my blurry picture.  But  your are correct, once the paint had worn off it didn't take much before the tow bar come slipping out. I guess I could have put bolt in tow bar to prevent it slipping out. I had put heat shrink the tube the goes through nose gear truss  so far haven't any problems.

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3 hours ago, jamesm said:

In my case the previous owner had weld on extension to the OEM tow bar and drilled hole one the end  you can sort see it in my blurry picture.  But  your are correct, once the paint had worn off it didn't take much before the tow bar come slipping out. I guess I could have put bolt in tow bar to prevent it slipping out. I had put heat shrink the tube the goes through nose gear truss  so far haven't any problems.

Take a look in my gallery for the one I built.  An awful lot of work for a relatively small problem, but I have never had it slip.

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The standard bar won’t slip if you bend the shaft slightly so that the part that slips into the nose gear is at a slight acute angle to the shaft.

Piper has nice clips on the Cherokees - you could get those, unless Piper parts prices are as bad as Mooney parts prices ;)

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1 hour ago, PT20J said:

The standard bar won’t slip if you bend the shaft slightly so that the part that slips into the nose gear is at a slight acute angle to the shaft.

Piper has nice clips on the Cherokees - you could get those, unless Piper parts prices are as bad as Mooney parts prices ;)

Mine is already bent that way, I thought that must have been how it came from the factory.  That must be something other people have done as a solution...

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56 minutes ago, larryb said:

I wrapped the section that goes into the truss with duct tape. That solved the slipping problem. It lasted almost 2 years before needing a rewrap.

I did that as well. Then I finally noticed that the ell was obtuse. Once I adjusted the angle I no longer needed the friction assist. 

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The shaft and the part that goes into the nose gear is a few degrees more acute than 90°...

it keeps the bar from sliding out most times...

Over the years, it can get stretched and bent... resulting in a bar that won’t stay in place.

Best regards,

-a-

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