How to replace landing lights (to LED)

[L. Trotter]

Getting ready to replace the std GE bulb with 100% compatible PAR 36 LED landing lights (two lights in each wing). It seems this is a relatively straight forward procedure accomplished through the access panel behind the lights. Any tips/advice before I get started?

[Hank]

Get ready to like them! Mine has now been turned off 3 times since installation in April 2014 (during my just-completed 70-freaking-day annual with no communication from the freaking IA). The other two times were during IFR certification testing.

Installation is no different than changing out the old bulbs, at least for my nose-mounted PAR46.

[amillet]

1 hour ago, L. Trotter said:

Getting ready to replace the std GE bulb with 100% compatible PAR 36 LED landing lights (two lights in each wing). It seems this is a relatively straight forward procedure accomplished through the access panel behind the lights. Any tips/advice before I get started?

I started to change mine, but quickly determined I didn’t have small enough hands or dexterity, and didn’t know enough swear words to get the job done in the time I had allotted for it. I added that to my sqwak list for annual.  MSC says bulbs are installed.  Still waiting on Hartzell to ship the new spinner 

[Niko182]

1 hour ago, L. Trotter said:

Getting ready to replace the std GE bulb with 100% compatible PAR 36 LED landing lights (two lights in each wing). It seems this is a relatively straight forward procedure accomplished through the access panel behind the lights. Any tips/advice before I get started?

Dont remove the plexiglass. I made tgat mistake. Took the plexiglass to find out it comes out from behind. Relatively simple but kindof a pain. Hardest parts is fitting the slots of the mounts back in. You can probably do it in 2 to 3 hours if you are somewhat mechanically inclined.

[PT20J]

I changed the wing-mounted landing and taxi lights on my J. I used Whelen Prometheus Plus because they are PMA'd and the 135 company I sometimes fly for has had really good experience with them.

They would be a snap to install if they went in from the front, but Mooney never seems to do anything the easy way. You get access through an inspection cover under the wing behind the lights. You need an allen wrench to loosen the screws that clamp the lights in place, and there is minimum room to work in there. It gets easier by the third lamp. After installing them, it's a good idea to check the alignment per the maintenance manual. Also, although it's not necessary, it's not a bad idea to remove the clear plastic lenses to check for cracks and stop drill if necessary. I also found that the Whelen bulb rims were a little thinner than the GEs and they had a little play in the mountings, so while the lenses were off, I put a couple of daps of clear RTV over the bulb and frame junctions to prevent any vibration movement while making them still easy to remove if ever necessary.

Skip

[OR75]

I believe LED lamps are polarized so you may want to check the +12 vs. ground wire 

[LANCECASPER]

9 hours ago, L. Trotter said:

Getting ready to replace the std GE bulb with 100% compatible PAR 36 LED landing lights (two lights in each wing). It seems this is a relatively straight forward procedure accomplished through the access panel behind the lights. Any tips/advice before I get started?

Don't remove any screws except one of the three Allen head screws, the one closest to the bottom.  Just loosen the other two and the retaining ring will be able to turn a few degrees and come off. Having some blue painters tape handy to keep the bulb in place on the retaining ring while you get the screws tightened doesn't hurt. 

You will have to hook up the wires the same as they were but getting the bulb secured in the retaining ring is the most challenging thing. You'll just about have it down by the time you replace the 4th bulb.

[Hank]

Take a picture of the existing wiring before you remove the bulbs. Makes connecting tbe replacement bulbs the same way much easier.

[jaylw314]

15 hours ago, Hank said:

Get ready to like them! Mine has now been turned off 3 times since installation in April 2014 (during my just-completed 70-freaking-day annual with no communication from the freaking IA). The other two times were during IFR certification testing.

I can't remember if I poked fun at you about that before, but you're supposed to turn off your landing light when you're holding short of an active runway  

[Hank]

3 hours ago, jaylw314 said:

I can't remember if I poked fun at you about that before, but you're supposed to turn off your landing light when you're holding short of an active runway  

I don't do that at night very often. So few are even active during the day any more . . . .    But I do enjoymnught flight. Just had a nice ine thenither day, home from The-The-70-Day-Annual-From-Hell . . .  But the night was beautiful, the lights on the ground were pretty, and it was so nice to be flying again. Yes, I did the Return to Service flight during daylight hours, then took my wife to dinner for driving me to get the plane; I flew home, she had to drive back.

[laytonl]

I did mine years ago, but the comments bring back memories of working in that tight space.  I was sore, bleeding, and irritated.  Great lights though.  Lee

[Steve W]

The primary tool is cursing, lots and lots of cursing. One of my rings had been slightly damaged and wouldn't just rotate and slide off so I had to remove all 3 of the screws, then file the damaged part so it went back together nicely.

I also took the time to use a totally aviation approved headlight, er, landing light polishing kit on the plexiglass cover since it was badly weathered.

Edited April 13, 2019 by Steve W

[PT20J]

The best part of doing these things yourself is that you appreciate when an experienced A&P does it in half the time and realize that some of the cost is paying for experience. 

[L. Trotter]

Job completed...Here is how I replaced the landing/taxi lights within the wings of my Acclaim (replaced the GE bulb with LED-PAR36). I am NOT an A&P and make no claims that this is the best way. It worked for me.

For starters

     -Really Mooney!, could you not have put a larger access panel (like the dozen other larger panels) at a location you actually work through.

     -If you are inclined to swear,  you may want to learn how in a few different languages. There are not enough profane words in the english vocabulary to complete this job.

     -Plan to spend about 30-45 min on each light. Go slow or risk cut hands.

     -I would never consider replacing the old GE bulb with another incandescent GE bulb. LED all the way!!! If the only benefit of LED was to never replace again, it's worth it.

Equipment needed: 9/64 allen wrench, shorty slotted/phillips screw drivers, small light, pliers, ?tape

Steps:

1. Make sure the light and master switches are in the OFF position. Remove (small) panel immediately behind landing/taxi light. Landing lights are inboard/taxi outboard. It is not necessary to remove the clear plexiglass curved lens. However, it's a good time to consider cleaning them up a bit. I used a kit from "Mothers" called NuLens. It really cleaned up the lenses well-they look new.

2. I found that a small light,  place through the access panel was very helpful and allowed much better visualization.

3. Take plenty of photos (before removing anything) to refer back on as needed.

4. There is such little space to work,  removing the wires from the back of the bulb first (and pushing them out of the way) is helpful when trying to access the allen screws . The wires will be attached to the bulb with a slotted or phillips screw. Maybe even one of each like mine-go figure. The GE bulbs may not be marked + and -, so just remember the ground is the short wire attached to the bulb frame. If you forget, don't worry it will be easy to figure out latter.

5. Now this is important....Do not move the phillips head screws that are adjacent to the allen screws. These phillips screws adjust the light position and have nothing to do with changing the bulb. Perhaps you may need to adjust the light position later but that is a separate procedure/protocol.

6. Now the fun starts. There are 3 allen screws ( size 9/64) that need to be located (about 120º apart). 2 will be visible, 1 you will not see (you can only feel it-at the 2:00 position outboard, 10:00 position inboard). The allen screw located on the bottom of the bulb bracket  will have the ground wire attached to it as well. Remove this screw completely and set it (with the ground wire aside). The other 2 allen screws only need to be loosened - not removed.

7. Once loosened, the bulb aluminum bracket will rotate slightly (counterclockwise) and then pull off the back of the bulb and off the light housing.

8. Now that the bulb and aluminum bracket has been removed you will notice an indexing tab on the back of the new bulb. There is a corresponding notch on the aluminum bracket that will ultimately be placed at the 12:00 position when installed. The bracket actually has 2 notches. This is a universal part that works on both inboard and outboard positions. The spacing of the allen screws are not exactly even. It is a good idea to insert the empty bracket to figure out which is the proper 12:00 position notch.

9. With a pair of pliers bend the inner lip of the aluminum bracket down towards the screw tabs. This will hold the bracket tight against the bulb. If you don't have enough bend to this inner lip the bulb will be sloppy and move around despite the bracket being fully tightened down. I put a good 20-30º circumferential bend in it.

10. To reinstall, line up the bulb indexing tab to the proper bracket notch and place at the 12:00 position on the light housing within the wing. I found that backing out the 2 remaining allen screws (almost out-but not quite) allowed things to line up easier. Twist the bracket clockwise making sure the tabs are properly seated with the allen screws. Now tighten down the one visible allen screw (for now). This maneuver might be easier if you place some tape on the new bulb to hold the aluminum bracket in place prior to tightening the first allen screw. Make sure to remove the tape if used. I did not use tape and had no problem.

11. Next, replace the ground wire with its associated allen screw to the bottom bracket tab and the other end to the back of the bulb.

12. Connect the positive wire to the back of the new bulb. Before tightening any more allen screws test the bulb to see if it works. If you have the proper wire polarity to the bulb put on your sun glasses because the LED light is bright!! If you have no light just reverse the wires on the back of the bulb, and re-test-no harm done. Despite replacing the wires identical to their original position, two of my lights needed reversing of the wires. Make sure the light and master switches are OFF after the function test is completed.

13. Now that the light test is successful, continue to tighten all allen screws securely. Make sure the notch is lined up properly to the indexing tab before you put all the effort in to tightening.

14. Repeat steps for the other 3 bulbs....ouch.

15. Wipe down the lenses from the outside to remove hand oils/fingerprints. Replace newly polished outer lenses.

16. Before replacing access panel, move all the wires so they are not touching the light bulb or housing....these get hot.

 

Edited April 22, 2019 by L. Trotter

[carusoam]

Brings back a Memory of trying to reach a stall switch...

Great details, LT. thanks for sharing.

Best regards,

-a-

[ArtVandelay]

LT,
Are your wing mounted landing lights factory? I usually seen them have a bracket around the lens, I like yours better.


Tom

[L. Trotter]

10 hours ago, ArtVandelay said:

LT,
Are your wing mounted landing lights factory? I usually seen them have a bracket around the lens, I like yours better.


Tom

Yes, they are factory.

There is an aluminum bracket that fits on the back of the bulb that in return is attached to a more permanently mounted base. You can see this set up on the 4th picture down. On the left is the base with no bracket or bulb. On the right is the bulb with bracket holding bulb in place. The 5th picture down is the bracket coming off the bulb.