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This is my first annual on my ‘64 M20C and I’m doing the prep work for my A&P to save money. The manual I have shows a diagram of all the inspection panels I need to remove but am curious why these don’t seem to be on the diagram...is there nothing to see but tank bladder? 47a0a26c55203e317963f380142d1da1.jpg

 

 

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11 minutes ago, Ruff Air said:

 

This is my first annual on my ‘64 M20C and I’m doing the prep work for my A&P to save money. The manual I have shows a diagram of all the inspection panels I need to remove but am curious why these don’t seem to be on the diagram...is there nothing to see but tank bladder? 47a0a26c55203e317963f380142d1da1.jpg

 

 

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Because if these were wet wings, you would be opening up the sealed wing. With bladders installed, all you would see are the bladders.

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22 minutes ago, Ruff Air said:

Next question: do I have to remove the carpet on the inside of the cabin for the annual? Are there inspection plates in the floor?


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No, you shouldn't. No reason to pull the seats, either, unless you're doing something under the panel and need room to lie down. 

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Yes, the spar should be inspected, and behind the sidewalls is the tubes for the structure.   Replace old fiberglass insulation if still installed.  Service bulliton 208. 


I thought the spar was inspected through the panels under the wing and belly. Why do they make no mention of removing interior for 100 hr inspection?


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I haven’t tried to remove the interior side panels without removing the seats, but I guess it’s possible? No need to remove carpets, as mentioned above, but make sure that the sealing tape along the floor edges and around the pedal boots is still there, along with the interior boots ( Johnson bar, rudder pedals, control rods going into the top of the wheel house).

IA should want to see the steel tubular structure on the right and left side of the cabin. Also, you can’t really do a proper inspection of the spars without removing the 6 inspection panels, under the rear seat...

 

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Just now, Ruff Air said:

Oh, ok. I kinda see how to remove front seats but not the rear. How is this done?


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Rear seat bottom is removed by unhooking the rod in the back and in the front that passes through the vinyl extensions on the seat. No tools required

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1 hour ago, Ruff Air said:

Pulled the cotter pins on the track on right seat and have tried moving forward and backwards to see if it will come off. Not happening...

 

Move seat all the way aft first and then lift the aft end of it. Seat tracks are trimmed to allow seat rail assy to disengage.

After that, move the seat all the way forward and repeat. this might be more difficult as seat cushion might interfere with wheel well cover. Lubricate the tracks if seats do not slide freely. Good luck.

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41 minutes ago, Igor_U said:

Move seat all the way aft first and then lift the aft end of it. Seat tracks are trimmed to allow seat rail assy to disengage.

After that, move the seat all the way forward and repeat. this might be more difficult as seat cushion might interfere with wheel well cover. Lubricate the tracks if seats do not slide freely. Good luck.

I have good luck slamming the seat full forward first and lift front clear of track then sliding it back to the notch and lifting seat out. Installation I do the back first end first then slam seat forward to get the front glides on the rail.

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I could slide it ...just couldn’t lift it out. Ended up slamming it forward and lifted it off then slid back and lifted it out.


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I take them out like Bob described. I hold up the bar in the front of the seat and slide it all the way forward. Once the front is free, I keep holding the bar and slide it all the way back.


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If you find duct tape.   Spend a day replacing it with aluminum tape.  Old duct tape will hold water.  

Ask your IA what panels he would like removed  You can inspect the whole wing if you remove 3 per side.

Also rearmost under wing panel near the wing root.

Strip of alum on the tail joint. One side should be good.   Lube jack screw and inspect.

Battery access cover on port side.

 

 

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If it’s your first annual and presumably the first annual on the plane for your IA, I would open All of the panels for a thorough look.  In the future you can go back to the manual recommended panels.

Clarence

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23 hours ago, Ruff Air said:

 

This is my first annual on my ‘64 M20C and I’m doing the prep work for my A&P to save money. The manual I have shows a diagram of all the inspection panels I need to remove...

If they aren't identified on the diagram, you don't need to remove them. I printed the diagram out, colored in the panels to be removed and then laminated it. The diagram also tells you what you are looking for and if you need to lube.

1319272193_Inspectiondiagram.jpg.266bb01d33e545f6d64366be0404a1a2.jpg

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19 hours ago, Ruff Air said:

I got it. No panels to inspect under carpet. Thanks you guys.

The A&P/IA that supervised me in my Annual told me that in a Cessna the panels are in the cockpit. This could be where 'remove the carpet' comes from :P

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It should be noted that that factory diagram is entitled “(100-Hour Inspection)”, and not “Annual Inspection”. It is actually just a duplication of the “Access Cover Identfication and Lubrication Guide” that is used for periodic recurring inspection/lubrication. Yes, it is often said that a 100 hour and an annual inspection are the same thing, but there must be a reason why an IA is required to sign off on an annual, no?

I would expect an annual inspection to additionally include at least a thorough spar inspection, which would require the removal of additional interior panels under the rear seat. 

I have not seen a diagram for an annual inspection published by the factory, if such a diagram exists...

 

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The scope of an Annual Inspection and a 100 hour inspection are the same.  It's spelled out in FAR 43.

The FAA wants an IA to perform the Annual inspection because of the greater experience that an IA is expected to have.  To be eligible to get the Inspection Authorization (IA) an A&P must have 3 years' experience and must be approved by the local FSDO to test for the IA certificate.  When I got mine, my boss had to show the FSDO why nobody else was really available, and the local maintenance inspector wanted to "talk" to me for a bit before he signed off on me to take the test.  It's actually a much bigger deal than a lot of people realize.

I've seen FSDOs not approve a 3 year A&P to get the IA due to a lack of "necessity" for the region- but all the other A&Ps in the local area knew the real reason.  I've also seen A&Ps who never bothered to get the IA but could do a better Annual inspection than the IAs he worked with.

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58 minutes ago, Andy95W said:

The scope of an Annual Inspection and a 100 hour inspection are the same.  It's spelled out in FAR 43.

 

I agree with you that the regulation states that the scope and detail of these two inspections are identical. And as you are an IA, I’m not saying anything below that you don’t already know, but I think for everyone’s benefit it needs to be repeated, at least occasionally, and especially for new Mooney owners, that not all 100 hour and annual inspections are the same. There are those who know where to look in these Mooneys, and there are others who will eventually get to know Mooneys. I fall into the latter category, but am trying to catch up as fast as I can

It would have been more correct for me to say that I have a certain expectation in regards to the thoroughness of an annual inspection, especially a first annual inspection, and that I consider the often-used Mooney 100-hour Inspection access panel diagram to be misleading, because if you limit the removal of panels to only those that are indIcated, you aren’t meeting the inspection requirements specified in Appendix D for an annual inspection, because you cannot see the back of the spar.

43.15(c)(1) states that the mechanic performing these inspections may use any checklist he so desires, obtained from any source (including creating his own), provided the items in Appendix D are included in the inspection.

One might conclude then, that different mechanics performing the same 100 hour or annual inspection will do so with a different scope and detail, and might even have slightly different interpretations of Appendix D. 

 

 

 

 

 

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