DonMuncy Posted March 10, 2019 Report Share Posted March 10, 2019 A while back, there was a thread in which several people expressed concern with the possibility of the pilot's seat unlatching and sliding back during take-off. I have come up with a device to prevent that risk. It fits over the right seat rail behind the seat, and prevents the seat from sliding back. The brass appendage is a spring/ball latch that snaps past the top of the rail to keep it from bouncing off. That may be overkill, but it seems to work. The notches are to clear the back cotter key stop. The funny step goes to the rear, and is necessary to clear a small hump at the back, and the carpet (at least on my plane). One downside is the necessity to tailor it to your particular seat location. But it is easy to put the seat in position, reach back and press it onto the rail, and equally easy to reach back and remove it. Naturally, feel free to copy, modify or make suggestions for improvement. I could probably be induced to make you one, but would need the measurement from the rear seat bracket to the back "wall". 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mcstealth Posted March 10, 2019 Report Share Posted March 10, 2019 55 minutes ago, DonMuncy said: A while back, there was a thread in which several people expressed concern with the possibility of the pilot's seat unlatching and sliding back during take-off. I have come up with a device to prevent that risk. It fits over the right seat rail behind the seat, and prevents the seat from sliding back. The brass appendage is a spring/ball latch that snaps past the top of the rail to keep it from bouncing off. That may be overkill, but it seems to work. The notches are to clear the back cotter key stop. The funny step goes to the rear, and is necessary to clear a small hump at the back, and the carpet (at least on my plane). One downside is the necessity to tailor it to your particular seat location. But it is easy to put the seat in position, reach back and press it onto the rail, and equally easy to reach back and remove it. Naturally, feel free to copy, modify or make suggestions for improvement. I could probably be induced to make you one, but would need the measurement from the rear seat bracket to the back "wall". Well. How about them apples! Very nice Mr Don. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hank Posted March 11, 2019 Report Share Posted March 11, 2019 Looks well made. Great machining. Can you give us a picture of it in place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsxrpilot Posted March 11, 2019 Report Share Posted March 11, 2019 This looks like a better option than my "right hand on the center bar" solution during takeoff. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMuncy Posted March 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2019 12 hours ago, Hank said: Looks well made. Great machining. Can you give us a picture of it in place? I'm not smart enough to have thought of that at the time. I'll see if I can get one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johncuyle Posted March 11, 2019 Report Share Posted March 11, 2019 I'm a big dude, so seat latch failure worries me a lot. Don't suppose you have the receipts for the pieces with part/item numbers so we can find them a bit more quickly in the aviation aisle at our local Home Depot? Thanks for doing the work to design the thing and sharing! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMuncy Posted March 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2019 Here are a couple of photos of the device, in place. I don't think Home depot has the materials. I got mine at a high class hardware store in Dallas (Elliott's). The spring ball catch came from Rockler (Woodworking place). Unfortunately, I left it at the hangar. I will try to get back out there and get the dimensions of the aluminum channel. I will post them when I get the measurements. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigers2007 Posted March 13, 2019 Report Share Posted March 13, 2019 What is the recommended technique to survive a seat latch failure on takeoff? Let go of the yoke??Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LANCECASPER Posted March 13, 2019 Report Share Posted March 13, 2019 1 hour ago, tigers2007 said: What is the recommended technique to survive a seat latch failure on takeoff? Let go of the yoke?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Have your hand on the throttle so that you pull the throttle back as the seat goes back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtVandelay Posted March 13, 2019 Report Share Posted March 13, 2019 What is the recommended technique to survive a seat latch failure on takeoff? Let go of the yoke?? I had this happen during my transition training at about 50’, I just relaxed my arms and hands, was able to keep my right hand on it because I could slip out of the shoulder belt. It was just a reflex. A cheaper solution is to put your flight bag behind your seat. Just make sure nothing can get crushed. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 13, 2019 Report Share Posted March 13, 2019 For those without Don’s skill set, or hanger fairies, this might work. I believe that Cessna and Monney seat track profiles are the same. https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/pspages/saftstop.php?clickkey=11451 Clarence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johncuyle Posted March 13, 2019 Report Share Posted March 13, 2019 4 hours ago, M20Doc said: For those without Don’s skill set, or hanger fairies, this might work. I believe that Cessna and Monney seat track profiles are the same. https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/pspages/saftstop.php?clickkey=11451 Clarence Nice find. It looks like the screw on this would chew up the (relatively soft, very expensive to replace) rail. Don's solution looks much better, both in terms of performing the function (the SAF-T-STOP could move, you'd have to bend some beefy aluminum and probably shear the pin lock for your seat to budge with Don's) and in reduced wear and tear on the rail. (I needed to have a pair replaced a couple annuals ago. It hurt.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsxrpilot Posted March 13, 2019 Report Share Posted March 13, 2019 7 hours ago, tigers2007 said: What is the recommended technique to survive a seat latch failure on takeoff? Let go of the yoke?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I've taken to holding onto the center windshield bar with my right hand during takeoff. I move my right hand up there just prior to rotation and keep it there until either ready to switch to autopilot or leveling off a bit. I know the traditional position is hand on the black, blue, and red knobs. But no one can give me a good reason to keep it there once I've rotated. So I've adjusted my technique to keep a right hand on a firm hold. So if the seat let go, I can pull on that instead of the yoke or the throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLCarter Posted March 13, 2019 Report Share Posted March 13, 2019 If the seat slides back with a nose high attitude, the yoke & throttle is that last thing you want to yank back on..... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMuncy Posted March 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 I measured the material for the anti-seat latch failure device, in case it is of value to anyone. It is channel aluminum 1/16 inch thick, and 1/2 inch inside width. The step-up shim is 1/8 inch thick by 5/8 wide. The spring ball latch is 5/16 inch outside diameter. The over all length of mine is 16 1/2 inches, but of course, dependent on the usual seat position. I think I keep mine in the second hole from the front. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seymour Posted March 14, 2019 Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 Thanks Don! Now where's the entrepreneur who is going to mass produce the device to Don's specifications and make a mint here? (I'll commit to buy .) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsxrpilot Posted March 14, 2019 Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 Don already said he'd make some. Make him an offer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seymour Posted March 14, 2019 Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 On 3/10/2019 at 6:11 PM, DonMuncy said: I could probably be induced to make you one, but would need the measurement from the rear seat bracket to the back "wall". Thanks Paul, I missed that line. PM sent with an "inducement". (Wish I knew his favorite bribe. Hopefully cash is one of them.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMuncy Posted March 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 Truth is, if a Chinese company geared up and built 1000 of them, they could probably turn them out for $2. You saw where Aircraft Spruce wants $70 for a pair of devices to do the same thing. (My belief is that one of them would provide plenty of security) With the way I bought the material, I have about $12 in one. (Those spring ball latches are pretty expensive.) With the design work in it, I have no idea how much time I have in mine. If I were diligent, I could probably make one in an hour, plus the time for the JB Weld holding the ball latch in place to set up. Knowing that I have no intention of trying to make a living making them, and I really don't want to even turn a profit, how much would you charge for them? It would have to be enough to deter too many people from wanting them. I don't want to wind up spending a month turning them out Additionally, anyone wanting one would have to measure from their usual seat position back to the front of the rear seat, or have me make it long and have the user use a hacksaw to cut to size. Remember, these are hand made, and you would have to live with the quality of my abilities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seymour Posted March 14, 2019 Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 49 minutes ago, DonMuncy said: Truth is, if a Chinese company geared up.... Like, Mooney? I'll be measuring my seat distance tomorrow morning. Thanks Don! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMuncy Posted March 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 1 minute ago, Seymour said: Like, Mooney? I'll be measuring my seat distance tomorrow morning. Thanks Don! Look at the pics I posted, showing mine in place, and make sure our planes are close enough to the same, that it will work. I think they should be, but we want to be sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLCarter Posted March 14, 2019 Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 I have the Saf-T-Stops on the 172 and they saved my ass on a return to service flight about 8 years ago, front seat legs were setting on the rail not in it, at rotation the seat tilted back on the rear seat legs, the stop did their job. It takes very little tightening and hasn't damaged the rail so far (1500+hrs) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Culver LFA Posted March 14, 2019 Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 8 hours ago, RLCarter said: I have the Saf-T-Stops on the 172 and they saved my ass on a return to service flight about 8 years ago, front seat legs were setting on the rail not in it, at rotation the seat tilted back on the rear seat legs, the stop did their job. It takes very little tightening and hasn't damaged the rail so far (1500+hrs) Wow, but the guy that installed the seat sure didn’t do his job. Sounds like the Saf-T-Stop may have saved you but the seat installer almost killed you! Glad your here to tell about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M20F-1968 Posted March 16, 2019 Report Share Posted March 16, 2019 I could make some of these. I think I would use spring loaded ball set screws with locking nuts threaded into an aluminum block screwed to the side of the long rail. This would allow for tension adjustment for snapping the U channel onto the rail and would be mechanically solid. May want to use 1/8" thick. U channel stock. I could make them longer than necessary and then they can be fitted and cut with a small hack saw in the field. John Breda 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M20F-1968 Posted March 16, 2019 Report Share Posted March 16, 2019 Of course they would be for discussion, entertainment and novelty purposes only! John Breda 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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