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Molded wheel bearing seals


PT20J

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I just found out that Parker Hannifin now has molded seals for 5" Cleveland wheels as well as the 6" wheels. Installing these will bring you up to 1950s technology in keeping dirt and water out of your wheel bearings. Stacey Ellis at Mooney confirms they will fit.

PRM95-Molded-Bearing-Seal-6-inch.pdf

PRM97-Molded-Bearing-Seal-5-inch (1).pdf

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I up graded the main gear on my Encore to the “Molded Seals”.    I think it is a big improvement.    Much better than a piece of felt sandwiched between a couple of washers. 

There are several different  molded seals listed in the 6” Cleveland wheel assembly.  For the Encore these fit my aircraft:   P/N 154-12400 for inboard and 154-12000 for the outboard.

Bill

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I was checking these out further.

For the 6" 40-86 wheels on my K, the Parker wheel and brake documentation calls out for 2 154-12000 which are $38.80 each, same for the the 40-86B and E. Only the 40-86A calls out for 1 each of the 154-12000 and 154-12400. A set for main's is $155.20

For the 5" 40-87 wheels on my K, the Parker documentation doesn't show compatibility till the 40-87D, F & G version - but I'll trust that they'll still fit the 40-87 from what Stacey relayed above. All the options here call for the 154-03200 which are pricey at $139.50 each or $279 for the nose wheel.

Anybody else install these on the 40-86 mains and 40-87 nose and can confirm the part numbers above; especially the nose wheel?

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52 minutes ago, M20Doc said:

I’m also assuming that they are a “one time use” part making bearing servicing quite expensive.

Clarence

Good point to verify. I assumed re-usable since they are held in with the same original snap ring and thus with that removed I expected removal to be the same. These only substitute for the 2 metal washers and felt.

 

6 hours ago, M20Doc said:

It’s hard to believe that the seals are worth more than the wheel bearings!

Clarence

On the mains, the new molded bearing is MUCH cheaper than the parts its replaces - we just don't ever need to replace them:

Felt grease seal $24.60 and 2x Grease Rings @ 45.50 ~$135 a side of a wheel.

For the nose the cost look pretty equivalent.

But the bearings, if you source them from Cleveland the cup and bearing cone total $192.50! 

Of course sourcing for Timiken is cheaper, but it puts the Cleveland grease seal parts cost in perspective.

1 hour ago, Andy95W said:

I'm with Clarence and Byron.  Looks like an expensive solution to a nonexistent problem.

I think your right when it comes to the Nose wheel, but the main's still look worthwhile - As long as these new molded bearings do last indefinitely like the parts they're replacing. But I am only guessing they're not expendable.

 

Edited by kortopates
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If you place freshly greased bearings into the wheel, then fill the space between the bearing and the felt seal assembly with grease, you will never have water intrusion.

On the other hand, we have many Cirrus with molded seals operating in dirty environments like the Bahamas, and the molded seals wear faster due to the sand getting on them. The seals are harder, so the sand cuts into the aluminum hub spacers. Properly greased felt assemblies outlast the "new improved" parts in this application.

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2 hours ago, philiplane said:

If you place freshly greased bearings into the wheel, then fill the space between the bearing and the felt seal assembly with grease, you will never have water intrusion.

You would think so, but I had to replace the bearings on 2 aircraft 8 months ago when we had 11"+ flood waters, both planes had just been repacked at annual

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3 hours ago, kortopates said:

Felt grease seal $24.60 and 2x Grease Rings @ 45.50 ~$135 a side of a wheel.

seems really high..just a quick look on Spruce shows 80ish per wheel for grease rings and felt seal

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1 hour ago, RLCarter said:

seems really high..just a quick look on Spruce shows 80ish per wheel for grease rings and felt seal

Those prices are directly from Spruce for my 40-86 wheels:

1x 154-00800 Felt $24.60

2x 153-00900 Rings $45.50

Total ~$135

I recall reading about your flood water damage and replacing your bearings. Glad it was just the wheels, we've seen many aircraft totalled for flood damage here.

 

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The Parker rep I spoke with told me that they press in with your fingers and not to use any tools. So, I’m thinking they probably remove easily and can be reused, but I didn’t think to ask. He also said to be sure to grease the lip where it rubs the axle. I don’t know if they are worth it or not. Years ago, I had a J model that sat outside at KSJC. I flew it about 100 hours/year and greased the bearings and seals every year and had to replace bearings about four times in 7 years. 

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I don’t have a problem with wheel bearings or seldom see evidence of grease contamination. I could have taken if it ain’t broke don’t fix it philosophy but decided to switch to molded seals as I needed new felts and this seemed like a better idea.

As it appears that I am the only Mooney Space adopter so far,  I will make it a point to post a comment next time I remove a wheel, especially given @philiplanecomments on the aluminum spacer wear.

Bill

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  • 1 year later...

We having a flooding problem with some areas on our GA ramp.   It's actually poor maintenance of drainage on the airports part.  Wise owners now 'bag' the wheels when forecasts look like heavy rain for long durations.

If your wheels get underwater you must get the bearings taken care of pronto.  More than a day can be a problem.  I couldn't be convinced that the new seals would keep water out if submerged for a period of hours.

 

flooding.thumb.jpg.5c1f32879e50528f416c1a2678c2f796.jpg

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3 hours ago, skykrawler said:

We having a flooding problem with some areas on our GA ramp.   It's actually poor maintenance of drainage on the airports part.  Wise owners now 'bag' the wheels when forecasts look like heavy rain for long durations.

If your wheels get underwater you must get the bearings taken care of pronto.  More than a day can be a problem.  I couldn't be convinced that the new seals would keep water out if submerged for a period of hours.

 

I doubt any seal will help with submersion. If that’s likely, you might get better protection for the bearings by switching to grease used on anphibs.

https://www.groveaircraft.com/amphiblube.html

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An annual requires the inspector to inspect the wheels and bearings. You cannot inspect them without taking them apart, cleaning them and inspecting them. You can't skip this and call it an annual.

That being said, If you want a pencil whipped annual, I can tell you who to call. Not me...

Edited by N201MKTurbo
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1 hour ago, MARZ said:

Wonder why they didn't do a double lip seal... that would have solved the water issue as well as the grease seal.   I'd be interesting to get the id. od. width on the new and improved product.

It is a double lip seal and and according to the spec sheet (see original post) it is designed specifically to keep water out. 
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22 hours ago, Hank said:

The Mooney Annual worksheet includes cleaning and repacking the wheel bearings. So I do. Little suckers are expensive! But the same part without the FAA writing on the box is available for ~10% of Spruce's price . . . . .

There is some information out there that shows that Timken makes 2 different bearings IN THE SAME number that fit our wheels. One is Approved for aircraft use and is made to tighter tolerances than the other. BUT they both have the same P/N. 

One might want to track this down before going for the cheaper product. 

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Reminds me of a conversation where one of our local IAs was castigating a previous mechanic who had apparently used boat wheel bearing grease instead of the specfied milspec wheel bearing grease on a plane he was doing an annual on.

A slow talking fellow resident asked him:  "So in a year, how many miles do you think that airplane taxiies?"

The IA opined, " maybe a few miles."

And the slow talker asked, "And how many miles can a boat trailer go on that blue grease?"

There was a period of silence while everyone thought about that.  :ph34r::lol:

 

Edited by Mooneymite
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