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Contintental Motors CSB19-01


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Does anyone know the reason for the change in cylinder drains?  I'm finishing up an LB rebuild and I need to buy the different style drains.   $50 each, I'm getting tired of sending Continental my money. :wacko:
Cheers,
Dan
I think they allow a certain amount of fuel to gather in the port for priming.
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17 minutes ago, N231BN said:
29 minutes ago, DanM20C said:
Does anyone know the reason for the change in cylinder drains?  I'm finishing up an LB rebuild and I need to buy the different style drains.   $50 each, I'm getting tired of sending Continental my money. :wacko:
Cheers,
Dan

I think they allow a certain amount of fuel to gather in the port for priming.

I'm assuming that is the point of them.  But I routinely started with just boost pump and never had any start issues with the original drains.

Cheers,

Dan

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2 hours ago, Marcopolo said:

Hi Paul,

  I think the question is,

 

  Now that the prime is disabled/removed, how are you going about the process for each cold and hot starts?

 

I am assuming the momentary mode of high boost would closely simulate the prime action but still it moves fuel into a different area than the prime circuit used to.

 

Ron

Sorry, what I was trying to say is that the Primer switch still works after the diverter is removed. The prime has not been disabled or removed, just the diverter solenoid. The prime still works fine. 

Therefore my starting procedure hasn't changed for either hot or cold starts. I still use the prime switch.

Sorry if I wasn't clear.

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1 minute ago, gsxrpilot said:

Sorry, what I was trying to say is that the Primer switch still works after the diverter is removed. The prime has not been disabled or removed, just the diverter solenoid. The prime still works fine. 

Therefore my starting procedure hasn't changed for either hot or cold starts. I still use the prime switch.

Sorry if I wasn't clear.

Gotcha, thanks!

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2 hours ago, N231BN said:

Same here.

Unfortunately we can't perform 1/2 a SB.  I just bit the bullet and ordered 6 of those gold plated fittings.

1 hour ago, gsxrpilot said:

Sorry, what I was trying to say is that the Primer switch still works after the diverter is removed. The prime has not been disabled or removed, just the diverter solenoid. The prime still works fine. 

Therefore my starting procedure hasn't changed for either hot or cold starts. I still use the prime switch.

Sorry if I wasn't clear.

After the SB has been performed the primer switch is now just a momentary hi boost switch.  If anything starting should be a little easier/smoother than before with the primer.  When using just the primer (per POH) most owners were used getting a little stumble after it fired and would use the primer until the engine ran smooth.  The stumbling/poor running was do to two things.  Poor cylinder distribution of the fuel/air mix and the fuel lines down stream of the diverter were not getting primed.  It would take a second or two for the mechanical pump to prime the system after the diverter redirected the supply back to fuel manifold.  When running the hi boost to prime (primer switch after the SB) we are priming all the fuel lines as well as all the cylinders.  The only downside l I can see is it will be easier to flood the engine than with the original primer system.  But if the primer isn't operated more than 3-5 secs I think flooding it is unlikely. 

Cheers,

Dan

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On 3/25/2019 at 9:45 AM, gsxrpilot said:

Mine is done. The SB has been complied with.  

Paul:

 

     Did you have to pay or did TCM pick up the tab? Any issue with obtaining parts?  At the bottom of the SB I see they allow 2 hours shop reimbursement but it is not clear to me if that is only for engines still under warranty or not. 

 

Thanks, Larry

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I paid. But SWTA is very reasonable. I can check my bill, but I'm sure I didn't overpay. 

Just checked, SWTA charged 0.75 of an hour to do the work and sold me the parts at cost. It pays to build a relationship with a good shop. I don't ever look at the bill from Laura, I just pay it.

Paul

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On 2/10/2019 at 1:50 PM, M252 said:

Any hints on a fast and cheap supplier for the 2 parts for TSIO360-MB1?:

-          2024 Plug, 13-27

 

-          646644S4S24.00   Hose Assembly

 

I use aerohoseshop.com for all my hose assembly.  They might have the information on hand already, or just give them the fittings and length required.  They do a good job with firesleeving, labelling etc.

Aerodon

 

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On 3/27/2019 at 9:31 AM, gsxrpilot said:

Sorry, what I was trying to say is that the Primer switch still works after the diverter is removed. The prime has not been disabled or removed, just the diverter solenoid. The prime still works fine. 

Therefore my starting procedure hasn't changed for either hot or cold starts. I still use the prime switch.

Sorry if I wasn't clear.

It always struck me as goofy that the Hi boost as a guard to prevent inadvertent operation but the primer switch does not.  Why didn't you remove the primer switch, seems to me it is doing the same thing as the Hi switch?  (or is it the same as the Lo switch?)

Aerodon

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33 minutes ago, Aerodon said:

It always struck me as goofy that the Hi boost as a guard to prevent inadvertent operation but the primer switch does not.  Why didn't you remove the primer switch, seems to me it is doing the same thing as the Hi switch?  (or is it the same as the Lo switch?)

Aerodon

The primer switch is spring loaded and doesn't stay on. There's probably a term for that that I don't know. The Hi boost switch can be turned on and left on. So if the hi boost got bumped on, it could cause problems. If the primer switch gets bumped, it just goes back off again. I don't ever use the hi boost just because it's a several step process, move the guard, turn it on, turn it off. The primer switch is easy, push then release.

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4 hours ago, gsxrpilot said:

There's probably a term for that that I don't know

Generally it is just referred to as a momentary switch.   I'm glad the SB retains the switch, it's nice having a momentary switch for priming ops.

6 hours ago, Phil EF said:

Has anyone had experience priming with the short drains and fuel pump. (Not using bypass valve)?

wondering if the standpipe is really necessary operationally?

I never had any problems priming with just the fuel pump with my original drains.  I don't think ones with a standpipe are an operational necessity.  But SB compliance is all or nothing, so I'm attempting to replace mine.  Apparently the SB obliterated stock on the newer ones.  I was only able to find 3 so far. 

Cheers,

Dan

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