3 questions: corrosionX, brake fluid, door handle

[Marauder]

 

Interesting. My cap has a small tube attached to it for venting. Maybe the previous owner added the small tube. However, the small metal tube allows me to attach a clear plastic hose that I can run outside then I can push fresh fluid through the brakes to replace all the fluid and bleed the system if I suspected there is any air in it. With no access , as in your plane, maybe your AP can make this small modification to the cap or run an small line through the firewall so you can service the reservoir

 

 

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Hector, you most likely have the old-style reservoir. Yours is probably cylinder shaped. The later models have basically cheap paint cans without the label. :-)

 

 

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[FastTex]

4 hours ago, Marauder said:

 

Take a look for my threads labeled” Brake education”. It might help you understand how it goes together.

As Anthony pointed out, the hole in the cap is for venting. The fluid level should be half to three-quarter inch below the bottom of the opening. The only line coming out of the reservoir is the one going to the parking brake.

If you have the can style like mine, to remove it, you will need to disconnect the parking brake (rubber hose attaches it) and then remove the two bolts which are on the strap to the can.






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Yep, that's exactly how it looks. I do not have any inspection panel so the only way to reach mine is to remove the top instrument cover and really work hard to fit the arm in there. I tried from the bottom but It was almost impossible for me. Do the electric flaps use any of this fluid?

[Marauder]

Yep, that's exactly how it looks. I do not have any inspection panel so the only way to reach mine is to remove the top instrument cover and really work hard to fit the arm in there. I tried form the bottom but It was almost impossible for me. Do the electric flap use any on this fluid?

No. So you can breath a sigh of relief.


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[FastTex]

4 minutes ago, Marauder said:

 

No. So you can breath a sigh of relief.


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[Hank]

6 hours ago, Yetti said:

Before you spend $50 replating it, you might see if a standard drawer pull would not have the same on center dimensions.  https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Hills-Polished-Chrome-Drawer/dp/B00JHNXTH2?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_6

Cabinet door handles are good options for the baggage door, but not for the people door. My door handle is painted, but needs to be redone, scratched by rings and keys I guess

[Skates97]

5 hours ago, Marauder said:

And of course the infamous parking brake cable.


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The parking brake cable should operate smoothly, if it is difficult at all to push/pull you can unhook it at the valve, pull it out some, and spray tri-flow inside the cable housing. Mine was stiff to operate, I just thought that was how it was. I think it was just because it hadn't seen any lube in 50 years. With the lube it is nice and smooth now.

[Yetti]

15 minutes ago, Hank said:

Cabinet door handles are good options for the baggage door, but not for the people door. My door handle is painted, but needs to be redone, scratched by rings and keys I guess

Good point.  I was thinking baggage door.

[FloridaMan]

My IA prefers LPS3. He sent me a study from a while back where the thinness of CorrosionX could help to lubricate rivets and as a result actually encourage corrosion in some places due to allowing movement that would remove protective oxidation. 

[FastTex]

3 hours ago, FloridaMan said:

My IA prefers LPS3. He sent me a study from a while back where the thinness of CorrosionX could help to lubricate rivets and as a result actually encourage corrosion in some places due to allowing movement that would remove protective oxidation. 

Interesting. I have had my airplane fogged with corrosionX yearly. Is she going to fall apart? 

 

[FloridaMan]

3 hours ago, FastTex said:

Interesting. I have had my airplane fogged with corrosionX yearly. Is she going to fall apart? 

 

If you're gonna throw out a logical fallacy, at least give me something more difficult to spot than a straw man argument like this. I used CorrosionX prior to my IA convincing me to switch to LPS 3, and I have airplanes that show they were treated with CorrosionX in the past and they seem to be ok. I certainly wouldn't say to forego using any sort of corrosion treatment given that someone cited an example or a reason why one corrosion prevention treatment may work better than another. 

[FastTex]

5 hours ago, FloridaMan said:

If you're gonna throw out a logical fallacy, at least give me something more difficult to spot than a straw man argument like this. I used CorrosionX prior to my IA convincing me to switch to LPS 3, and I have airplanes that show they were treated with CorrosionX in the past and they seem to be ok. I certainly wouldn't say to forego using any sort of corrosion treatment given that someone cited an example or a reason why one corrosion prevention treatment may work better than another. 

No intention to offend (see smiling face...), sorry if you felt that way. I'm not an expert and I thought it was interesting since it's the first time I heard something like that in 10+ years. All IAs I have been dealing with so far automatically used CorrosionX. If there is a reason not to use it I'm ok. I always try to find the best ideas (in this case corrosion treatment), from people with more experience, to protect my airplane/capital. 

[FloridaMan]

4 hours ago, FastTex said:

No intention to offend (see smiling face...), sorry if you felt that way. I'm not an expert and I thought it was interesting since it's the first time I heard something like that in 10+ years. All IAs I have been dealing with so far automatically used CorrosionX. If there is a reason not to use it I'm ok. I always try to find the best ideas (in this case corrosion treatment), from people with more experience, to protect my airplane/capital. 

No offense taken, I've got a bit of a tic when it comes to spotting logical fallacies and it's a bit of a reflex on my part. 

[Marauder]

I looked at both MSDS for these products. Both products are approaching the treatment using petroleum distillates. I think the questions I would ask are:

1) Does one product have a longer treatment period? In other words, how long between treatments is required?
2) Cost per application against the required treatment period?
3) Any limitations or restrictions on usage? Is it safe on everything that touches?
4) What are the flowability characteristics? It is useless if it can’t be misted into areas that can’t be seen.






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[0TreeLemur]

On 1/5/2019 at 4:47 PM, carusoam said:

Great reminder...

Where not to put corrosionX... any AP components... bag them up properly before spraying...

getting this stuff on everything has some ill side effects...

Best regards,

-a-

So, @carusoam let me ask a <hypothetical> question of you.  If a relatively new M20C owner during the recent annual inspection of his aircraft fumigated the wing and tail with corrosionX and didn't bag up the rubber membranes on the vacuum servos, are they going to (a) disintegrate quickly, (b) disintegrate slowly, or (c) spontaneously combust?   What is the remedy?

[carusoam]

You almost got me!

If you go with the servo motor replacement on the step....

Then you want to bag it up...

Else Some disaster befalls the motor...

I fogged my M20C religiously...

Corrosion issues I encountered were generally where the paint was weak and failing...

Give a good look to see what is mounted on the back shelf... if it is empty... fog away!

If it has electronics and servos, bag first, then fog away! 

Keep in mind I am only a PP, not an electrical kinda guy...

Best regards,

-a-

[0TreeLemur]

1 minute ago, carusoam said:

You almost got me!

If you go with the servo motor replacement on the step....

Then you want to bag it up...

Else Some disaster befalls the motor...

I fogged my M20C religiously...

Corrosion issues I encountered were generally where the paint was weak and failing...

Give a good look to see what is mounted on the back shelf... if it is empty... fog away!

If it has electronics and servos, bag first, then fog away! 

Keep in mind I am only a PP, not an electrical kinda guy...

Best regards,

-a-

Au contraire- despite your proclaimed status as a lowly PP,  you seem to have an almost otherworldly grasp of organic chemistry- and I'm talking about the butyl rubber membranes on the Brittain PC system vacuum servos, not electrical components.   Will the corrosionX begin to immediately dissolve the rubber?   If so, then what can be done to stop it?  Hypothetically of course.

[carusoam]

MS has actual chemists.   (And Marauder did a great job with the MSDS above)

What I did do was look up how CorrosionX advises us....

http://www.corrosionx.com/tech-sheets/corrosionx-aviation-data-sheet.pdf

There are a couple of notes in there...

1) CX can seep into tiny crevices, if allowed... tinier than 1 thousandth of an inch...

2) It gets absorbed by some rubbers, butyl rubber being one of them... some softening and swelling will occur based on the amount absorbed... fogging has a tendency to not have enough available to cause any swelling...

3) If your battery is in the back... this stuff could creep between the post and the lug.... it’s high resistance to electricity could slow the electron flow ....

 

Then I looked up the safety data sheet...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4JXOtP3XxetNmItazgyQjJNNGM/view

It is primarily made made up from Mineral oil...  (baby oil)

Simply...  https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_oil

so if cleaning is needed...

They recommend soap and water... and lots of it...

 

I can see how electrical contacts would get really touchy to this stuff...

For the most part, they are saying don’t spray anything directly on the sensitive surfaces...

If sprayed directly on the rubber diaphragm where it is seated it would be possible to get a lubricated film up where friction is holding the rubber parts in place. Nobody would like that to happen...

From my experience, my 65C would bleed what looked like aluminum dust out of the rivets after fogging. This would go on for months.... I couldn’t tell the rivets had a micro break in the paint to allow stuff to bleed like that... a few washings and the reminders went away....

Best regards,

-a-

[Buckeyechuck]

For replating. Look at Eastwood.com. They have numerous DIY plating systems for home.