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Mounting the engine - pro tips


ArtVandelay

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I help my mechanic remove my engine to send it out to be overhauled.

First, it was impossible to remove the lower bolts because of the footwells interference. This resulting in the engine not wanting to come free, we ended up using the engine hoist to swing the engine out bottom first. I’ve seen other Mooneys with badly mangled firewalls, now I know why.

Second, the engine frame (is there another name?) also didn’t want to come off the firewall, it was like bolts holding the frame to the firewall weren’t at the same angle, so I used a punch to free the frame.

Now the question, we assume the best way to reinstall is to mount the frame to the engine and then mount the assembly to the firewall, yes?

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1 hour ago, ArtVandelay said:

I help my mechanic remove my engine to send it out to be overhauled.

First, it was impossible to remove the lower bolts because of the footwells interference. This resulting in the engine not wanting to come free, we ended up using the engine hoist to swing the engine out bottom first. I’ve seen other Mooneys with badly mangled firewalls, now I know why.

Second, the engine frame (is there another name?) also didn’t want to come off the firewall, it was like bolts holding the frame to the firewall weren’t at the same angle, so I used a punch to free the frame.

Now the question, we assume the best way to reinstall is to mount the frame to the engine and then mount the assembly to the firewall, yes?

Having installed a few Mooney engines over the years.  Install the engine mount to the engine, then install the mount/engine to the airframe.   I would replace the 4 AN3 bolts which hold the lower blocks at the firewall, you will have to remove the lower fairings behind the firewall.  As well replaced the AN4 bolts which hold the mount to the firewall and lower blocks.

Clarence

Edited by M20Doc
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Also ,it's time to closely inspect tubular engine mount,bead blasting old paint using suitable media and inspect for cracks...magnaflux mount Maybe over kill but that mount is over 30 years old.New lord mounts are required obviously and now the time to replace all fluid hoses.

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Straight out of the book,

“NOTE: Experience has proven that it is much easier to remove and reinstall this engine with the mount attached to it.”

From my experience in automotive aftersales, this sounds like the voice of experience from a mechanic that was not too happy with the engineers at the Mooney factory. Probably best to not question and listen to the advice.

Also, the torque values are published in the maintenance manual as well, I’d follow that closely and use all new fasteners/hardware.  Inexpensive parts equals inexpensive insurance.

Edited by Culver LFA
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My most of my hoses are only 4 years old, were replaced with teflon hoses, I told my AP to replace any hoses that are not teflon. Inspected, stripped and repainted the engine frame. I order new bolts for any that didn’t look new, there was a couple with minor rust, they’re gone. Cleaned up the firewall, flushed the oil cooler and oil separator with mineral spirits, repair the air intake (screen was torn and rusted ). Will have AP replace a couple of the doghouse panels, and repair the lower cowling where the camlocs fall on the bottom, sheet metal is completely worn through.

Removed old avionics fan, removed avionics cooling hoses attached to copilot vent, replaced one and cap the other. Replaced most of lights in glare shield with LEDs, removed the compass mounted on the frame, repainted, put in a panel mount compass, added LED indicator light to the fuel pump so I can’t forget to turn it off. Prop and governor are getting overhauled as well. Engine cables looked tired, I removed them and waiting on replacements.

 

 

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Let's assume you have newish hoses.    Is there enough room in hoses and cables and wiring to do the rubber mounts without undoing all the firewall connections?

Yea, sort of, one of hoses we could not get off, could not get leverage, it was on tight. I’ve got the A3B6 so it’s a little different.
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On 12/18/2018 at 4:31 PM, ArtVandelay said:

My most of my hoses are only 4 years old, were replaced with teflon hoses, I told my AP to replace any hoses that are not teflon. Inspected, stripped and repainted the engine frame. I order new bolts for any that didn’t look new, there was a couple with minor rust, they’re gone. Cleaned up the firewall, flushed the oil cooler and oil separator with mineral spirits, repair the air intake (screen was torn and rusted ). Will have AP replace a couple of the doghouse panels, and repair the lower cowling where the camlocs fall on the bottom, sheet metal is completely worn through.

Removed old avionics fan, removed avionics cooling hoses attached to copilot vent, replaced one and cap the other. Replaced most of lights in glare shield with LEDs, removed the compass mounted on the frame, repainted, put in a panel mount compass, added LED indicator light to the fuel pump so I can’t forget to turn it off. Prop and governor are getting overhauled as well. Engine cables looked tired, I removed them and waiting on replacements.

 

 

How old is your oil cooler? How many hours on it?

The reason I ask is that I had one fail catastrophically during a ground run to check for leaks following an oil change. If yours is not fairly new, I would be inclined to replace it with the engine overhaul.

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How old is your oil cooler? How many hours on it?

The reason I ask is that I had one fail catastrophically during a ground run to check for leaks following an oil change. If yours is not fairly new, I would be inclined to replace it with the engine overhaul.

It was replaced in 96 when PO upgraded to A3B6 engine, only one I’ve heard failing was one that was serviced during an engine overhaul (cleaned?).

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On 12/19/2018 at 11:37 PM, ArtVandelay said:

It was replaced in 96 when PO upgraded to A3B6 engine, only one I’ve heard failing was one that was serviced during an engine overhaul (cleaned?).

It has been in service for twenty two years during which it has been subjected to significant temperature variations and vibration. At this point it doesn’t owe you (or anybody) anything. If you are looking to build in reliability and improve flight safety for yourself and your passengers, I would recommend that you replace it. Those nice Teflon hoses on your airplane (I have them on my airplane too) won’t do you much good if your oil cooler fails.

Prior to the time that mine blew sending oil all over the place, I had never heard of one failing either, but it does and can happen.

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Attach the engine mount frame to the engine. 

Make 4 bullets by taking the 4 old bolts and grinding the ends to a smooth bullet shape.

Hoist the engine into place, drive the top two bullets into the bolt holes towards the plane with a hammer.

lower the engine so the bottom forks engage the blocks and drive the bottom bullets in from the outside in.

Take your two new top bolts and crawl into the foot well. Drive the bullets out by tapping the new bolts in with a hammer.

Do the same thing with the bottom bolts.

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