My First Annual- What Can I Do To Help??

[0TreeLemur]

My A&P is going to start doing the annual on my '67C on Tuesday.   I've downloaded and printed the Mooney 100h/annual inspection checklist and have been studying the maintenance manual.  He said I could get started by taking off inspection panels for him.   I observed the annual last year as part of the pre-buy, but I didn't really participate to a degree that I remember much detail about what was done when/why.  

I've got some questions:    Must all the inspection panels beneath the wings be removed or just some?   I know not to take the ones off that are below the fuel tanks.  My a/c does not have a 1 piece belly, I presume that all those panels must be removed between the wings?   The empennage access panel comes off, as do the gap seals where the tail rotates in response to trim.   What else?   Surely one of you long-time C owners can give me some marching orders so my co-pilot and I can productively spend our Sunday helping get ready for the big inspection.   Any hints on how to keep stuff organized so reassembly is made easier?   Any warnings about things _not_ to do?   

Should I take the cowl off yet, or should I wait until after we warm it up to do the compression test?   Will the engine warm up faster or slower with the cowl off?

I'm full of questions.   Thanks in advance for any advice.   It looks like very nice day tomorrow in the 60's and I'm looking forward to spending some quality time in the hangar learning more about our Mooney. 

[Hector]

Fred. Yes take all the belly panels off. Although I’m not sure it is required, I do take all the wing panels off as well because I like to put eyeballs on everything. I put the fasteners in a ziplock bag and attach it to each of the panels with a piece of safety wire. Typically I just fly around a bit to warm up the oil then immediately de-cowl the airplane and do the compression and timing check. Then I proceed to change the oil if everything checks out good. I’ll also remove the plugs and clean/gap them. I lube everything per the Mooney annual check list, and put he plane up on jacks to finish lubing the gear, doing the gear pre-load checks, and gear swings. Follow the check list and see how much your mechanic will let you do based on your experience and ability.


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[Hector]

If you are going to run the engine on the ground to warm it up I’m not sure there is that much of a difference between cowl and de-cowl. It might warm up a bit faster de-cowl because you don’t have the airflow around the cylinders that cowling provides.

 

 

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[Hank]

Take some sandwich-size ziploc bags and a marker. Bag screws and label by location:  left wing, right wing, tail, cowl, spinner, belly, etc. Makes it much easier to put back together. If it's at the mechanic's hangar, add your tail number to each bag.

Stop by Lowes on your way to the airport and get a Kobalt double-ratcheting screwdriver for taking out all of those screws . . . .

The wing panels that I remove all have unpainted stainless screws, which makes them easy to spot. It's not all of them, just the ones with things behind them. I don't remove them, I leave one screw on the inner edge in place but loose and swivel the panel out of the way.

There are two small round panels under the tail, and seems like a rectangular panel on either side, in addition to the pivot panels. 

Find somewhere out of the way but secure to put the spinner, cowl top, both cheek panels, the tapered tail joint pieces and the avio ics bay panel. The cowl top I generally stand up, and if safe from wind I lean the cheek pieces against it. The other pieces I lay down somewhere I won't be tempted to set something down in top of them . . . And don't stack them on top of each other unless you like scratches.

Don't pull the plugs until the IA is there, as some are required to check compression.

Each year that you do this, your IA should allow you to do more. It's a relationship-building exercise, where he shares knowledge and you share ability to do things his way. He will have equipment to clean, gap and test spark plugs, the first thing I was shown how to do eleven annuals ago.

Edited November 25, 2018 by Hank

[RLCarter]

Use a good fitting screwdriver, your about to remove close to 1000 screws on inspection & belly panels alone. If you run into a screw that is troublesome, leave it for your A&P,  they should know the tricks to remove it.

[carusoam]

Lots of new screws...  check the parts manual to make up a list...

Parts manual.

Maintenance manual.

A few new powered driver bits...

A left spiraled drill bit...

The thinnest pair of pliers the tool truck can supply... for grabbing round head screws that have been routed...

Expect some old screws to be stuck...

+1 snack sized ziplocks, a marker, a piece of paper, twist ties, tape... lots of bags of screws held in place where they were taken from...

WD40 sprayed on the dirty screws to help clean up the reusable ones...

Be ready to toss anything the screwdriver slipped in....

Only use the powered driver for removal, and the bulk of tightening, not the initial or final torque.... both loosening or tightening...

After a few years, all the screws come and go easily...

Also be ready with a bunch of those speed nut clip things that the screws go into... (There is a handy name for both types, clip and flat)

There are at least three sizes of fasteners used, always use the right size... 6, 8, 10... same with the receptacles... the dog house gets the tiniest of screws and receptacles....

Expect to use the sheet metal screws that are not pointed for this speed nut situation...

How talented are you? Expect all the engineering degrees to not help very much with the screws... pure experience working with screws is really helpful.  Be ready to learn from a good mechanic.

Dress appropriately, it is going to get cold on the floor, eat well before getting started....

Expect a good day of work, removing screws and cleaning panels... another day putting it all back. The faster you can build a rapport with your team, the better off you will be... just like at work... 

Coming back year after year is more enjoyable....

Best regards,

-a-

[0TreeLemur]

Thanks -a-.  I was hoping for one of your lists.

In a past life I was a farmer who did things like swap out a hydrostatic transmission from a swather in the middle of an alfalfa field. 

My co-pilot will be helping me tomorrow.  She has skills- she replaced all the circuit breakers in our plane back in May.

[carusoam]

Fred,

You two are going to love this experience!

• All the antennae on the bottom panels get disconnected, might as well clean the connections while in there...
• Take lots of pictures prior to disassembly of everything... helps when putting things back.
• Rolls of papertowels for cleaning... the fancier, the better...
• Make sure are cleaners are aluminum friendly...  ordinary Simple Green is not... 
• Bring your favorite creeper,  from laying down to sitting up near the wing tips...
• Don’t accidently open any fuel tank panels...
• Seats come out... front goes off the front of the rails... back goes off the back... inspect the wheels to see if they are still there...
• there are fancy locking pins or something to keep the seats from sliding all the way back... whatever is there is probably old and near broken if not missing...
• Look for the traditional frozen grease on the trim screw...
• Get a contact for Lasar for any odd parts that need replacement...
• have spare time, wash, wax, window cleaning....
• start a list for next year...

How is that?

If you are sore when it is over, you have done a good job!  

PP thoughts only, not a mechanic...

Best regards,

-a-

 

[Boilermonkey]

Clean the belly before you take the pannels off.

Mark the spinner pieces before removing.

Take pics of anything to you haven't done before, before you start

Take pics of the engine and everything inside as a baseline going forward when you are looking at a leak, burn, need in a serial number, etc.

Do corrosionX while you have the pannels off.

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[Guest]

After opening and removing the inspection covers, clean the belly, empty the cabin of pilot stuff, remove the seats.  To speed the paperwork portion print the list of applicable AD’s and print he recurring ones.  Read your logs adding small post it tabs to mark AD compliance to make it easy for your IA to find them, make a small spread sheet with a few columns, AD #, subject, compliance by date/hours and next due.

Clarence

[1964-M20E]

All of the opening up (removing covers, pans etc.) cleaning, lubing, greasing and closing up the patient is all in the realm of owner preventative maintenance.  The actual inspection is for the I/A.  However, once you have done this several times and walked around with the I/A you will lean what to look for and when the I/A shows up you can give him a rundown on what you think you need to do before he even looks at it.  He may find more things, and he may tell you you can defer some items.

If this is the first annual with your plane remove all the covers and using a rag with mineral spirits and corrosion X on it wipe all the interior surfaces you can reach in the wings.  You will be surprised to see the amount of dirt that comes out of the wings.  Then you can do a complete corrosion X application.

It is a good experience to do an owner assisted annual.  If something happens when you are away from home, and it will, you have some knowledge to tell the mechanic at the field where you are stranded what is wrong and what is needed to fix it.

[Bob_Belville]

Great thread.

Your IA may let you do at least some of the lubing. TriFlow for the Heims bearings, light oil for hinges, 2 or 3 greases for gear, blocks, trim screw...

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[0TreeLemur]

3 hours ago, M20Doc said:

After opening and removing the inspection covers, clean the belly, empty the cabin of pilot stuff, remove the seats.  To speed the paperwork portion print the list of applicable AD’s and print he recurring ones.  Read your logs adding small post it tabs to mark AD compliance to make it easy for your IA to find them, make a small spread sheet with a few columns, AD #, subject, compliance by date/hours and next due.

Clarence

Thanks Clarence.  The same A&P did the annual last year has some software that prints out applicable ADs based on model and S/N.   He went through all the logs last year.  It will be interesting to see how he follows up.

[0TreeLemur]

3 hours ago, Boilermonkey said:

Do corrosionX while you have the pannels off.


 

@Boilermonkey I have not heard of corrosionX before.   Sounds like a good product.  I"ll order a couple of cans.  Thx.

[carusoam]

Fogging with CorrosionX... is a great idea. It is self spreading and can go a long ways...

Read instructions to avoid typical challenges.  Bag up any motors or clutches that can be effected by overspray...

After fogging inside the wing, don’t be surprised as some CX wicks its way up rivets onto the wing surface.  It may carry some aluminum dust with it, making it appear like smoking rivets... same look, different reason...

A really good product if your plane is outdoors, a lot...  

PP thoughts only, not a mechanic...

Best regards,

-a-

[0TreeLemur]

My diabolical plan is to get the plane outdoors, in the clouds and rain, as soon as this annual is complete and I finish my IR.

@carusoam

when you say "Fogging" is that via aerosol can or something more complex like an actual atomizer?

[carusoam]

Spray can is what I used... They may have some more industrial systems...

Boeshield is a similar product that you may also see.

PP thoughts only, GO IR!

Best regards,

-a-

[1964-M20E]

3 hours ago, Fred_2O said:

My diabolical plan is to get the plane outdoors, in the clouds and rain, as soon as this annual is complete and I finish my IR.

@carusoam

when you say "Fogging" is that via aerosol can or something more complex like an actual atomizer?

Corrosion X makes a system to fog the plane.  A little expensive for one person.  However, your mechanic may have the setup to do this.  A half gallon of corrosion X will last you for years.

[EricJ]

I'd ask the IA what panels he wants opened up, or you may spend a lot of time screwing screws in and out that could be left alone.   The belly will likely need to be opened up, but my IA only wanted a few of the wing panels opened which saved a ton of time.   Leaving stuff alone that doesn't need to be touched is also a safety issue. 

There's still plenty to do when assisting with an annual.   I was busy the whole time.

 

[Yetti]

There should also be an area for "upgrade"  each annual.  Say the Trim system.   Lots of lube and things to inspect.   Last year we spent time on the tail section.  

[0TreeLemur]

We just ended a long day of screw/panel removal.    There are 3 stuck screws with partially stripped heads that will wait for A&P to deal with on Tuesday.   Fun day in a brightly lit hangar.  We are both tired.  Thanks everyone for the input!

We're looking forward to Tuesday when the fun barrier is broken!

[RLCarter]

2 hours ago, Fred_2O said:

We just ended a long day of screw/panel removal.  

[Yetti]

19 hours ago, Fred_2O said:

We just ended a long day of screw/panel removal.    There are 3 stuck screws with partially stripped heads that will wait for A&P to deal with on Tuesday.   Fun day in a brightly lit hangar.  We are both tired.  Thanks everyone for the input!

We're looking forward to Tuesday when the fun barrier is broken!

dremel tool with a cutoff wheel.  Cut a slot along one of the X.    then get a #1 flatblade to get the screw out.

[0TreeLemur]

36 minutes ago, Yetti said:

dremel tool with a cutoff wheel.  Cut a slot along one of the X.    then get a #1 flatblade to get the screw out.

I'm going to sick Big Dave the A&P on it tomorrow morning and see how he does it. 

[Guest]

6 minutes ago, Fred_2O said:

I'm going to sick Big Dave the A&P on it tomorrow morning and see how he does it. 

A  dab of diamond valve lapping compound on the end of a good screwdriver bit often works before getting cutting tools and drills involved.

Clarence