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Oil changing - Trying to not make a mess


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Has anyone tried this flexible funnel:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016KTC3FO/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A1UMBRA5ZTBCX8&psc=1

I have a quick oil drain on the left (Lycoming IO360-A1A) which I can reach by opening the L cowl flap.

Tried using amazon doggie bags (which fit over oil filter) but there is not much of room to bring the opening of the bag around the filter so it indeed catches the oil.  

I am trying to not take the lower cowling off.  Is there enough room (Under the loosened oil filter) to snake this flexible "funnel" sheet to direct the oil that is inside of the filter outside of the cowling, perhaps through one of the cowl flaps?     Amazon.com_ Form-A-Funnel Flexible Funnel 29_ L x 5_ W (Aviation)_ Automotive.htm

John Breda

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We have the aviation version and it is definitely worth the money to me. It is far better shaped for aviation purposes than the other form a funnel models. We have not been successful in using it to catch oil from the filter, but we didn't try very hard and only tried once so far.

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39 minutes ago, M20F-1968 said:

Has anyone tried this flexible funnel:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016KTC3FO/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A1UMBRA5ZTBCX8&psc=1

I have a quick oil drain on the left (Lycoming IO360-A1A) which I can reach by opening the L cowl flap.

Tried using amazon doggie bags (which fit over oil filter) but there is not much of room to bring the opening of the bag around the filter so it indeed catches the oil.  

I am trying to not take the lower cowling off.  Is there enough room (Under the loosened oil filter) to snake this flexible "funnel" sheet to direct the oil that is inside of the filter outside of the cowling, perhaps through one of the cowl flaps?     Amazon.com_ Form-A-Funnel Flexible Funnel 29_ L x 5_ W (Aviation)_ Automotive.htm

John Breda

Trying to locate the holy grail of funnels to prevent oil spills is laudable. Something to think about in regards to NOT removing the entire cowling....

Most seem to change oil/filter about every 25hrs (or so). I believe a full visual engine/exhaust inspection at this time interval is prudent and wise.  

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Trying to locate the holy grail of funnels to prevent oil spills is laudable. Something to think about in regards to NOT removing the entire cowling....
Most seem to change oil/filter about every 25hrs (or so). I believe a full visual engine/exhaust inspection at this time interval is prudent and wise.  
What should one look for when inspecting the exhaust system in this manner?

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11 minutes ago, moontownMooney said:

What should one look for when inspecting the exhaust system in this manner?

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This was discovered during an oil change. This is a Bravo and that's the firewall right behind it. Lives have been lost to this exact situation on the Bravo. The lower cowl is a pain to remove, but I'm glad we did.

exhaust crack N134JF.jpg

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1 hour ago, M20F-1968 said:

Has anyone tried this flexible funnel:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016KTC3FO/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A1UMBRA5ZTBCX8&psc=1

I have a quick oil drain on the left (Lycoming IO360-A1A) which I can reach by opening the L cowl flap.

Tried using amazon doggie bags (which fit over oil filter) but there is not much of room to bring the opening of the bag around the filter so it indeed catches the oil.  

I am trying to not take the lower cowling off.  Is there enough room (Under the loosened oil filter) to snake this flexible "funnel" sheet to direct the oil that is inside of the filter outside of the cowling, perhaps through one of the cowl flaps?     Amazon.com_ Form-A-Funnel Flexible Funnel 29_ L x 5_ W (Aviation)_ Automotive.htm

John Breda

I do it with a piece of scrap aluminum.

 

 

 

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36 minutes ago, L. Trotter said:

Trying to locate the holy grail of funnels to prevent oil spills is laudable. Something to think about in regards to NOT removing the entire cowling....

Most seem to change oil/filter about every 25hrs (or so). I believe a full visual engine/exhaust inspection at this time interval is prudent and wise.  

Yea, I’d second that.  You never know what Easter eggs can lurk in your engine in between oil changes.  Removing the cowls allows a nice inspection.  Take your time...I try to learn something new every time the cowl is off.

25 hours/3 months is a great milestone for aircraft flown short distances.  The most I’ve stretched it to is 31 hours...nearly all on long distance trips.

Steve

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9 hours ago, M20F-1968 said:

Has anyone tried this flexible funnel:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016KTC3FO/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A1UMBRA5ZTBCX8&psc=1

I have a quick oil drain on the left (Lycoming IO360-A1A) which I can reach by opening the L cowl flap.

Tried using amazon doggie bags (which fit over oil filter) but there is not much of room to bring the opening of the bag around the filter so it indeed catches the oil.  

I am trying to not take the lower cowling off.  Is there enough room (Under the loosened oil filter) to snake this flexible "funnel" sheet to direct the oil that is inside of the filter outside of the cowling, perhaps through one of the cowl flaps?     Amazon.com_ Form-A-Funnel Flexible Funnel 29_ L x 5_ W (Aviation)_ Automotive.htm

John Breda

I have one of these flexible funnels for my motorcycle, if I have to add oil but only for when I’m on a trip as it stores easier than a funnel IMHO its not all that great and not needed on your IO360 , but I think you have a different cowl on your F than what I have

I  use a scrap piece of aluminum( 5 min of cutting to correct shape, a slight V bend in center)  slides under the filter, slopes down and out the right side, draining into a funnel placed into a bucket(on my F I have to take off cabin heat tubing and move to the side). Place sheet , loosen filter let drain for a few min, remove filter(open end up) , clean face, install new filter till seated , remove aluminum sheet, clean sheet, not a drop of oil on engine(from oil change) or course torque and safety filter. 

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I just did my 2nd oil change on my IO-360-A3B6D.  I use a tube on the quick-drain so that's great but the filter always makes a mess down the angled firewall/baffle behind it.  I'll try that flexi-funnel thing and see what I can do next time. 

I also remove the lower cowl every time.  I'm getting better at that and I like to be able to inspect everything.  So far, the whole job takes about 1.5 hours for me if that's all I'm doing under there.  A fair bit of that is dealing with the lower cowling. 

I do have a question: what is the best way to remove/inspect the oil screen down in the sump?  On my engine, the safety'd bolt appears to be at the rear of the sump, about 1" away from said angled baffle/firewall and I didn't want to open it up because I wasn't sure I could get it to come all the way out given such limited space. 

Also, does it require a new gasket every time?

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56 minutes ago, FlyBoyM20J said:

 

I do have a question: what is the best way to remove/inspect the oil screen down in the sump?  On my engine, the safety'd bolt appears to be at the rear of the sump, about 1" away from said angled baffle/firewall and I didn't want to open it up because I wasn't sure I could get it to come all the way out given such limited space. 

Also, does it require a new gasket every time?

If I understand you correctly that is the oil finger screen located on the lower co-pilot side of the engine.  Yes it is a royal PIA to get out but it can be done.  It is the screen on the suction side of the oil pump.  There is another thread about this:

Yes the copper crush gasket should be replaced every time you remove the finger screen.  I believe this is the part number: MS35769-21

I check the finger screen at annual while some will do it every oil change.

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10 hours ago, MikeOH said:

Man, that is one CRAPPY weld...is there ANY penetration???  Sure doesn't look like it!

That weld was done at the Mooney Factory in '92 or '93. But they used to allow up to 1750 TIT temperatures back then so I am not blaming the person doing the weld.  Lycoming since changed the recommendation to 1650 TIT. The exhaust system is one of the main reasons that I run at 1600 TIT.

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