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Rebuilding Bendix Ignition Switch


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plane wont start again.  It will shower of sparks when turned to start but no amount of pushing, twisting and pushing, pushing and twisting, jiggling or cussing will throw out the bendix.  The switch has always been janky and took some jiggling and perfect twist and push to work so I think it's time to rebuild.  $500+ for a new one is just painful although the rebuild kit isnt exactly cheap.

#1  Question:  Does this part come out of the housing for the rebuild?  After removing the center screw it doesnt just fall out.  Would like to get in there and clean it up in any case even if theres no replacment parts in the kit.

#2 is my finger saver.  a glob of JB Weld :)

#3 left everything attached so I can match them  up.  Kit comes with a new back it looks like.

#4 after wiping the goo off it.  IA says I need the kit just scotch padding those contacts isnt good enough or worth it.

#5  I dont love the expose center wire/ground cable.  Are all of them like that?

#6 is this really all that comes in the repair kit?  Only pic I could find out of the packaging online.  Anybody know exactly what is in the kit.

My switch has 10-357210-1 A marked on it

Looks like I need kit 10-357515.  Saw a couple on ebay for a little over $100 which is better than spruce or anywhere Ive seen.  Any suggestions? 

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Edited by TheTurtle
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Just now, LANCECASPER said:

Before I spent $500 for a new switch I would be tempted to get an EA-15000.

http://electroair.net/switchPanel.html

ive been looking at it.  Im just not sure how the shower of sparks hooks up.  It look slike you just leave the right mag off, press the button which engages starter and shower, after it fires turn on the right mag.  Also they look to only have one distributor and spruce only lists the EA-13000.  Also cant find the STC to see if the mooney is on it.

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Just now, TheTurtle said:

ive been looking at it.  Im just not sure how the shower of sparks hooks up.  It look slike you just leave the right mag off, press the button which engages starter and shower, after it fires turn on the right mag.  Also they look to only have one distributor and spruce only lists the EA-13000.  Also cant find the STC to see if the mooney is on it.

You need the EA-15000 for two mags and the EA-13000 if you have one mag and one electronic ignition (electroair).

The Mooney is on the Approved Model list for the EA-15000. http://electroair.net/pdfs/AMLswitch2.pdf

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1 minute ago, LANCECASPER said:

You need the EA-15000 for two mags and the EA-13000 if you have one mag and one electronic ignition (electroair).

The Mooney is on the Approved Model list for the EA-15000. http://electroair.net/pdfs/AMLswitch2.pdf

seems like a no brainer.  I always hated the push and twist.  And I leave the keys in the ignition all the time anyway.  I guess Ill call spruce and the EA distributor and see who will sell it to me.  

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A quick search on Controller.com shows a huge number of repair kits available.

Another option would be getting a field approval for an ACS ignition switch.

The ElectroAir switch while neat takes up more valuable panel space, and looking at their information it has push on spade terminals instead of screw terminals.

Clarence

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11 hours ago, LANCECASPER said:

Before I spent $500 for a new switch I would be tempted to get an EA-15000.

Before I spent $300 for a couple of SPST switches and a MO DT push button I would be tempted to get some of these cause they are much cooler than those boat switches.  And it would look like the Apollo rocket console.  And it would look like you are "going hot" with weapons every time you started your plane.  yes yes I know no IA would ever sign off on it and your plane would fall from the sky.

49LX28_AS01?$mdmain$

Edited by Yetti
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On 9/23/2018 at 4:07 AM, M20Doc said:

A quick search on Controller.com shows a huge number of repair kits available.

Another option would be getting a field approval for an ACS ignition switch.

The ElectroAir switch while neat takes up more valuable panel space, and looking at their information it has push on spade terminals instead of screw terminals.

Clarence

One of the guy on controller was only $80 for the repair kit.  I don't like that spade connection now that you mentioned it

Edited by TheTurtle
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3 hours ago, Stanton R said:

After looking at the drawings I don't see any provisions for the shower of sparks on the EA 15000. 

I think the SOS and starter can easily be powered in parallel. The larger question is mag timing and if it’s necessary to have one mag off during startup. 

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got a rebuild kit from avparts for $80.  didnt fix the issue :(  had a friend beat on the starter with a crowbar and hammer while I was on the brakes and using the key.  Couple whacks and it started right up.  Funny how you can get a nonaviation guy out there with a hammer and crowbar a foot from the prop.  Shut down and restarted 4 times with no issues.  But I suppose a new starter is in the near future.  I think I must have cooked her at some point with my garbage hot start technique. The money for the new starter sucks but what really grinds me is that thing looks impossible to get out of there with out removing downpipes and oil lines.  Any tips on R&R of starter?

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8 hours ago, TheTurtle said:

got a rebuild kit from avparts for $80.  didnt fix the issue :(  had a friend beat on the starter with a crowbar and hammer while I was on the brakes and using the key.  Couple whacks and it started right up.  Funny how you can get a nonaviation guy out there with a hammer and crowbar a foot from the prop.  Shut down and restarted 4 times with no issues.  But I suppose a new starter is in the near future.  I think I must have cooked her at some point with my garbage hot start technique. The money for the new starter sucks but what really grinds me is that thing looks impossible to get out of there with out removing downpipes and oil lines.  Any tips on R&R of starter?

Your hot starts will improve dramatically with a new high speed starter.

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  • 10 months later...
3 minutes ago, jkarch said:

Anyone know what the part number for the terminal screws are? I need to add the right magneto grounding link since I’m ditching the a3b6d for the a3b6

6DBC8725-3C0F-4E6B-8BA6-F58565B6EAEE.jpeg

Top shelf, second bin halfway down in the screw section at Los Depotos aviation store.

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2 hours ago, jkarch said:

Anyone know what the part number for the terminal screws are? I need to add the right magneto grounding link since I’m ditching the a3b6d for the a3b6

6DBC8725-3C0F-4E6B-8BA6-F58565B6EAEE.jpeg

AN515-6R4 (6-32) screw and MS35338-41 lock washer.

With out knowing the part number of your magnetos, are you sure that you need to install the grounding jumper?

Clarence

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Just now, jkarch said:

Offhand do you know the part number and washers for the circuit breaker panel  too?

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The same screw and lock washer should work for the circuit breakers pictured.

Clarence

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12 minutes ago, M20Doc said:

AN515-6R4 (6-32) screw and MS35338-41 lock washer.

With out knowing the part number of your magnetos, are you sure that you need to install the grounding jumper?

Clarence

Good question, I’m converting from the D2000 mag to two slick mags, do I need to do this? Here is the service instruction that was applied years ago, so I’ve been advised to unapply it for the dual mags.

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