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Try to patch or strip/reseal


NJMac

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48 minutes ago, N201MKTurbo said:

All this talk about flying with leaky tanks is fine, but it is only for getting you by until you get it fixed. When are you planning to get it fixed? 

Are you going to hide it from your IA at your next annual?

Unless the IA tops off the tanks he wouldn’t know I guess. He said he’s getting it fixed. 

-Robert

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10 hours ago, NJMac said:

Fantastic turn of events just now. Came to the plane. It's inside the hangar. No fuel smell. Nothing under any part of the wing. Only 2 or 3 gallons low on the right wing.

I'm thinking I just don't fill past 20 gallons on that side and I'm in the clear. Any reason thats not a good plan?

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So you know where the leak is. This greatly cuts down all the work in chasing an elusive leak. That is fantastic! 

I’m curious if a general statement can be safely made that most leaks occur around the top from not filling the tanks and sealant drying. I, for one, most of the time fill to the tabs. Once in a while I’ll put in 32 gallons but rarely. No leaks yet knock on wood!

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On 8/6/2018 at 11:45 PM, Don Heene said:

I would patch it.  Pull the inspection panel and a patch job would be complete on a weekend.  If leaks again then do the whole tank.  Not hard to do, I did my tanks myself.  Took my time did it right then an A&P sign off.  I used Poly Gone to strip then used Flamemaster to seal.  Most A&P's don't like this work because it takes so long to strip the tanks right.  

Did you do just one coat of flamemaster, then seal the inspection panels also using flame master?   Which flamemaster product did you use?  I also see all the different kinds of proseal and all on spruce, but haven’t yet figured out which is best for a weekend patch like you described. 

Edited by Browncbr1
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2 hours ago, NJMac said:

Yes plan is to fix it next week.

 


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If you decide that you need to do more then patch, Dave vanallen @DVAover at queencity did a great job on mine. and he was able to get me in immediatly vs a 6 moth wait. the work was great and he kept me updated with everything that was happening during the process. 

Brian

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21 minutes ago, Browncbr1 said:

Did you do just one coat of flamemaster, then seal the inspection panels also using flame master?   Which flamemaster product did you use?  I also see all the different kinds of proseal and all on spruce, but haven’t yet figured out which is best for a weekend patch like you described. 

The materials are listed in the maintenance manual. They are all still available. I get the cans instead of the semkits for repairs. I buy it from Frank the local MSC. He gets it from Aviall. It is the cheapest by far.

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So you know where the leak is. This greatly cuts down all the work in chasing an elusive leak. That is fantastic! 
I’m curious if a general statement can be safely made that most leaks occur around the top from not filling the tanks and sealant drying. I, for one, most of the time fill to the tabs. Once in a while I’ll put in 32 gallons but rarely. No leaks yet knock on wood!

I’ve been told it’s heat, so half empty tanks, the top half gets very hot with no fuel to moderate the temperature.
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5 minutes ago, teejayevans said:


I’ve been told it’s heat, so half empty tanks, the top half gets very hot with no fuel to moderate the temperature.

It gets hotter here than most people can imagine. I went to the hangar yesterday and it was uncomfortable to touch the plane and it was inside. I turned it on and the OAT was 145 in the hangar. I turned on the swamp cooler and it got the temperature down to a cool 102. 

The bottom line is if it was heat, every Mooney in Arizona would be leaking like a sieve. 

I never kept the tanks full in my old F and it never had any tank problems.

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3 hours ago, Browncbr1 said:

Did you do just one coat of flamemaster, then seal the inspection panels also using flame master?   Which flamemaster product did you use?  I also see all the different kinds of proseal and all on spruce, but haven’t yet figured out which is best for a weekend patch like you described. 

http://donmaxwell.com/fuel-tank-repairs-how-we-fix-them/

 

-Robert

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Just talked with Paul from Weep no more. What a great guy. Booked 5 months out. Quoted $6400 or 6800 for both tanks. Considering having it done so i can check that box for the next 15 years. Will see how things go when we pull access panels tomorrow and look.

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2 hours ago, NJMac said:

Just talked with Paul from Weep no more. What a great guy. Booked 5 months out. Quoted $6400 or 6800 for both tanks. Considering having it done so i can check that box for the next 15 years. Will see how things go when we pull access panels tomorrow and look.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

if your thinking about a full reseal, call Dave http://www.vanallenairmotive.com/ it's local and they use the same process.

Brian

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12 hours ago, Browncbr1 said:

Did you do just one coat of flamemaster, then seal the inspection panels also using flame master?   Which flamemaster product did you use?  I also see all the different kinds of proseal and all on spruce, but haven’t yet figured out which is best for a weekend patch like you described. 

I used Flamemaster CS 3204 CLASS B-2 BLACK for the tank and Flamemaster CS 3330 Class B-2 Black for the access panels.  Measure this out on a digital scale.  You must be exact more or less mixing the parts together will effect the drying time longer or shorter.  The B-2 you have more working time, the A is less working time.  First use Ploy Gone to strip down to the medal.  You might have to use this 2 or 3 times to get the sealer off.  Use plastic scraper and soft brass brush to remove.  I used the brass brush to rough up the sealer after applying the Poly Gone it seams to come off faster.  Use lots of water to remove the Ploy Gone.  Don't for get to to seal off the fuel tube so you don;t get water in it.  I vacuumed out the excess water let dry then  clean with MEK.  Use the Flamemaster to seal just one good coat works fine.  I used the Seamco gun to apply makes it much easier and less of a mess.  I used the gun to apply the sealer in the small screw holes in the access panels.  If you don't apply to the screw holes it will leak.  I have a pic with the access panel of the Flamemaster oozing out at the end of the screws after tightening down the access panel.  After it all dries use Flamemaster sealing compound top coat (CS 3600).  You brush this on.  I saved samples for my log book of the tank sealer and access panel sealer  with a date on it.  I think it will help when I go to sell it in the future.  I'll attached some pictures.

IMG_20180808_164604890.jpg

IMG_20180808_164615061.jpg

IMG_20180808_164633485 (1).jpg

IMG_20170514_154945295_HDR.jpg

IMG_20170518_145700348.jpg

IMG_20170514_154654075.jpg

IMG_20170514_154937411_HDR.jpg

IMG_20180808_165034754_HDR.jpg

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12 hours ago, Don Heene said:

I used Flamemaster CS 3204 CLASS B-2 BLACK for the tank and Flamemaster CS 3330 Class B-2 Black for the access panels.  Measure this out on a digital scale.  You must be exact more or less mixing the parts together will effect the drying time longer or shorter.  The B-2 you have more working time, the A is less working time.  First use Ploy Gone to strip down to the medal.  You might have to use this 2 or 3 times to get the sealer off.  Use plastic scraper and soft brass brush to remove.  I used the brass brush to rough up the sealer after applying the Poly Gone it seams to come off faster.  Use lots of water to remove the Ploy Gone.  Don't for get to to seal off the fuel tube so you don;t get water in it.  I vacuumed out the excess water let dry then  clean with MEK.  Use the Flamemaster to seal just one good coat works fine.  I used the Seamco gun to apply makes it much easier and less of a mess.  I used the gun to apply the sealer in the small screw holes in the access panels.  If you don't apply to the screw holes it will leak.  I have a pic with the access panel of the Flamemaster oozing out at the end of the screws after tightening down the access panel.  After it all dries use Flamemaster sealing compound top coat (CS 3600).  You brush this on.  I saved samples for my log book of the tank sealer and access panel sealer  with a date on it.  I think it will help when I go to sell it in the future.  I'll attached some pictures.

IMG_20180808_164604890.jpg

IMG_20180808_164615061.jpg

IMG_20180808_164633485 (1).jpg

IMG_20170514_154945295_HDR.jpg

IMG_20170518_145700348.jpg

IMG_20170514_154654075.jpg

IMG_20170514_154937411_HDR.jpg

IMG_20180808_165034754_HDR.jpg

Thanks for all the detail.  I already have the polygone and gram scale..  and will pick up the flamemaster products.   My A&P doesn't want to do it, but he said he would observe and sign off... I just have the bottom lap seam leaking, so I'm hoping I just need to remove two top inspection panels to get the job done...   I saw the flamemaster 12oz cans have a 6 month shelf life... I can't imagine using much on what I need to do and I don't plan on using the leftover material within 6 months.   Would I be able to seal two access panels with one 3.5oz tube?  I'm wondering if I can seal the full length of the lower lap seam using just one 3.5oz tube also?  

Edited by Browncbr1
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8 minutes ago, RobertGary1 said:

There is also a final coating Mooney requires afterwards, don’t have then p/n off hand but it’s in your manual. 

-Robert

PRC-1005L it is a slosh coating (top coat) that was used to help extend the sealant life. the newer sealants are better and do not need it but doesn't stop you from using it.

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8 hours ago, Browncbr1 said:

Thanks for all the detail.  I already have the polygone and gram scale..  and will pick up the flamemaster products.   My A&P doesn't want to do it, but he said he would observe and sign off... I just have the bottom lap seam leaking, so I'm hoping I just need to remove two top inspection panels to get the job done...   I saw the flamemaster 12oz cans have a 6 month shelf life... I can't imagine using much on what I need to do and I don't plan on using the leftover material within 6 months.   Would I be able to seal two access panels with one 3.5oz tube?  I'm wondering if I can seal the full length of the lower lap seam using just one 3.5oz tube also?  

Those sealants are nasty to work with. We used it under the new fuel caps on my plane. It got on everything and stuck!

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17 hours ago, Marauder said:

Those sealants are nasty to work with. We used it under the new fuel caps on my plane. It got on everything and stuck!

I have used them on RV fuel tanks.  Get the quart and store it in the garage fridge, will keep indefinitely.  It's smelly and sticky but not really rhat horrible.

Rules

1.  Double glove with nitrile gloves.  Then tear off the top glove and reglove when necessary.

2.  Plan on disposing of everything it touches, brushes, syringes, popsicle sticks.

3.  Get really wide wax paper and do all the mixing and prep on the wax paper.  Then roll everything up in the wax paper and toss it when finished.

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