Engine cowling skybolt kit

[ArtVandelay]

 

My cowling camlocs have seen better days, I really like the versions on the aft part of the cowling, this kit looks like it would make them all like that. Anyone done this, and do you have a picture of how it came out? How difficult was it?

 

Also there is a note:

“Recepticals not included with Direct Fastener Replacements”

Do I have to buy a receptical pieces?

[rbridges]

I haven't used this kit, but I have switched to their camlocs with the wider flange(?).  The increased surface area really helps spread the forces out much better.  I haven't seen any changes in the cowling holes since I switched.

[Bartman]

I am so glad you asked this question because I have been looking at the slotted kit PN 04-02786 for my 77J. Looking forward to replies from those who have ordered and installed these kits. 

[ArtVandelay]

I haven't used this kit, but I have switched to their camlocs with the wider flange(?).  The increased surface area really helps spread the forces out much better.  I haven't seen any changes in the cowling holes since I switched.

Do you have a picture of what they look like installed?

[rbridges]

10 minutes ago, teejayevans said:

Do you have a picture of what they look like installed?

this is the original and skybolt camloc.  Part # SK28S3-5s and 6s.  The last two numbers are the lengths.  

[jaylw314]

41 minutes ago, teejayevans said:

My cowling camlocs have seen better days, I really like the versions on the aft part of the cowling, this kit looks like it would make them all like that. Anyone done this, and do you have a picture of how it came out? How difficult was it?

Also there is a note:

“Recepticals not included with Direct Fastener Replacements”

Do I have to buy a receptical pieces?

Replacing the small camlocs with the equivalent Skybolt hardware is trivial.  You just need to buy a few different lengths to find the right one, and make sure you have plenty of retaining washers.  They will use the stock receptacles fine, so no need to replace them unless you want to (you can replace receptacles yourself under preventative maintenance, although I wouldn't suggest it unless you're familiar with removing and squeezing flush rivets).

I've not replaced the bigger camlocs, so I can't recall if you have to replace the receptacle, but I don't believe so.

Note, if you just want to replace the small camlocs (the ones where the upper and lower cowlings meet), you can buy those separately.  I spent about $60 on various sizes to replace them, you don't need the whole kit (which includes the big ones).

[ArtVandelay]

this is the original and skybolt camloc.  Part # SK28S3-5s and 6s.  The last two numbers are the lengths.  

Do you have the part # of the wider flanges?
TIA

[ArtVandelay]

Replacing the small camlocs with the equivalent Skybolt hardware is trivial. 
Note, if you just want to replace the small camlocs (the ones where the upper and lower cowlings meet), you can buy those separately.  I spent about $60 on various sizes to replace them, you don't need the whole kit (which includes the big ones).

I want the wider flange as well, to prevent wearing of the fiberglass.

[rbridges]

5 minutes ago, teejayevans said:

Do you have the part # of the wider flanges?
TIA

SK28S3-XX.  The XX will be the length of the camloc you want.  I ordered mainly 5s and 6s.  I think I also needed two 8s lengths.  You will probably need a slightly longer camloc than the ones you currently have.  Mine were generally 1mm longer, some were 2mm.  The reason being the wider flange keeps the camloc from sinking in as far into the cowling hole.

 

https://store.skybolt.com/categories.aspx?Keyword=sk28s3-5s

[jaylw314]

54 minutes ago, teejayevans said:

I want the wider flange as well, to prevent wearing of the fiberglass.

Sorry, I meant you can purchase the small Skybolt fasteners (the ones in @rbridges's photo) separately without buying the whole kit.  IIRC, the kit comes with the receptacles and the large fasteners as well.

[ArtVandelay]

59 minutes ago, rbridges said:

SK28S3-XX.  The XX will be the length of the camloc you want.  I ordered mainly 5s and 6s.  I think I also needed two 8s lengths.  You will probably need a slightly longer camloc than the ones you currently have.  Mine were generally 1mm longer, some were 2mm.  The reason being the wider flange keeps the camloc from sinking in as far into the cowling hole.

 

https://store.skybolt.com/categories.aspx?Keyword=sk28s3-5s

I see, I’ll order 1 of each (5,6,8) and try them out to see what sizes fit best, I assume the longer 8 is for the 2 front ones. Thx

[jaylw314]

1 hour ago, teejayevans said:

I see, I’ll order 1 of each (5,6,8) and try them out to see what sizes fit best, I assume the longer 8 is for the 2 front ones. Thx

IIRC, I ended up using the 7 length for the rearmost fasteners (the only one that attaches to the fuselage).  I'd suggest buying a couple each of -7 and -8, and then a random bunch of -3, -4 and -5 for the others.  It's nice to have the variety anyway, and like I said, the fasteners themselves are pretty darned cheap.  I spent about $50 for my first batch, and then had to order a couple more because I guessed poorly.

[ArtVandelay]

30 minutes ago, jaylw314 said:

IIRC, I ended up using the 7 length for the rearmost fasteners (the only one that attaches to the fuselage).  I'd suggest buying a couple each of -7 and -8, and then a random bunch of -3, -4 and -5 for the others.  It's nice to have the variety anyway, and like I said, the fasteners themselves are pretty darned cheap.  I spent about $50 for my first batch, and then had to order a couple more because I guessed poorly.

Is the -# the length in mm? I like how Rbridges is flush, I like to have them all like that. But he has a C, don’t know if his size translates to the J.  I also have the 1 piece belly that has about 20 camlocs as well, but it is in better shape.

 

[jaylw314]

Just now, teejayevans said:

Is the -# the length in mm? I like how Rbridges is flush, I like to have them all like that.  I also have the 1 piece belly that has about 20 camlocs as well, but it is in better shape.

 

ugh, I can't remember, I think it's in 1/16 inches, but not 100% sure.  You can try to guess by measuring your old camlocs, but the length will not be quite the same (since some of your camlocs may have been replaced with shorter ones if they're sinking into the fiberglass), so there is still some trial and error.  Once you have the right sizes, though it's very satisfying in an OCD way to see them all flush like that

[ArtVandelay]

Once you have the right sizes, though it's very satisfying in an OCD way to see them all flush like that

Until you remove the cowling next time... I guess you have keep track of which camloc goes where?

[jaylw314]

Just now, teejayevans said:

Until you remove the cowling next time... I guess you have keep track of which camloc goes where?

They won't fall out if you install the split washer on the back side of the fastener!  The only exception would be if the cowling hole has worn enough that the washer can fall out, but then it's doubtful your camloc would have stayed in, either...

[DonMuncy]

If you have a choice, opt for the slotted camlocks rather than Philips. It is nice to be able to look at the cowling and know they are "locked" if all the slots run in the same direction.

[rbridges]

2 hours ago, teejayevans said:

Is the -# the length in mm? I like how Rbridges is flush, I like to have them all like that. But he has a C, don’t know if his size translates to the J.  I also have the 1 piece belly that has about 20 camlocs as well, but it is in better shape.

 

I have a J cowl, so it should be similar.  

[Stephen]

19 hours ago, DonMuncy said:

If you have a choice, opt for the slotted camlocks rather than Philips. It is nice to be able to look at the cowling and know they are "locked" if all the slots run in the same direction.

I kind of like the Philips because the slotted ones are more prone to the screwdriver slipping and scratching the paint; even if you are careful your MX might not always be... (says the guy with slotted fasteners and scratched paint).

[DonMuncy]

I agree that is a problem. I use two hands, one forefinger and thumb encircling the tip, so it doesn't slip out, the other to do the twisting.

[ArtVandelay]

I kind of like the Philips because the slotted ones are more prone to the screwdriver slipping and scratching the paint... 

Since I won’t be replacing all of them, I will stick with Philips as well so they all match.
Does anybody know the size of the lower 2 camlocs on the lower cowling, not shown in the parts manual.

[jaylw314]

I'm pretty sure those are the same as the big ones on top, 40S5-5S.  I'm not sure if you can use the old grommet or not, but I assume you can.  Skybolt doesn't make a wide flanged one for those, so it makes little sense to replace the stock ones unless you like shiny, new or both .

You do know you can order the fasteners directly from Skybolt, right?

[xcrmckenna]

I'm pretty sure those are the same as the big ones on top, 40S5-5S.  I'm not sure if you can use the old grommet or not, but I assume you can.  Skybolt doesn't make a wide flanged one for those, so it makes little sense to replace the stock ones unless you like shiny, new or both .
You do know you can order the fasteners directly from Skybolt, right?

What is the part # for the ones holding the lower cowl on? If I just want to order them from Skybolt.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bartman]

The larger 4000 series cam locks on the aft end are all rusty. Would the ones that go across the top just below the windshield be part # 40S5-5S as well ?

[jaylw314]

Here's the Skybolt 40S5-5S fastener .  They sell it for $4.20.  You'll need a camloc tool to put it in the grommet

All the large fasteners that attach the cowl to the fuselage should be the same part.

Also, here's a PDF that specifically references the gotchas about using Skybolt fasteners on Mooney cowlings...