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How the heck do you remove that last Vacuum Pump Bolt!


MisfitSELF

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I'm trying to remove my vacuum pump and there's that last bolt that impossible to get to.  Previous owner had used a long flathead screw driver and hammered it off and on, which may be why I'm replacing the pump after <300 hours.  I have an IO-360A3B6 on an M20J and it's the lower left hand bolt near the oil filter. 

I managed to get a strap wrench around it but I couldn't apply enough torque to loosen it.  I've tried a crows foot and various sized wrenches and spanners and no luck getting at it at the right angle.  I even have a 90deg offset wrench on order that I'll try on Monday.  But if that doesn't work, I'm stumped and I don't want to do like the prior owner.  It looks like a special tool could get in there and do the trick but so far it's eluding me.  Plus once I finally get the bolt off, at some point I"m going to have to get it back on and properly torqued! 

My A&P is suggesting I may need to cut a wrench in half, but I don't even think that will work as the space is still too tight.  Anybody have a solution to this problem?  I can't wait to get rid of this pump when the KI300 comes out!

Edited by MisfitSELF
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All these replies about "special" tools??  

They'll never make into the upper ranks of the CB club.

All the CBs know that the reason there are 6 corners on a hex nut is so that one can take that standard long Craftsman screwdriver and a small hammer, tap each corner until the nut is loose.  Skinny fingers finish the job.

Special tools!  Sheesh.

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Rapco wench from Spruce is the only way to get it out and to torque it down.  To get the washer and nut back on is hard also.  I used a magnet to get the washers on then use some wax on my finger to get the nut to stick to my finger to start the nut onto the threads.  

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16 hours ago, bluehighwayflyer said:

Yes, here is the special tool. 

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/installtool.php?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqJWyj_SN3AIVhuDICh1qfwZxEAQYASABEgKIZvD_BwE

That combined with a good pair of locking surgical forceps and a telescoping magnetic pick-up tool gets me through. 

Jim

$23 at Spruce won't exclude you from the CB club though you may lose manpoints in the eyes of some. 

Get the tool, damn the torpedoes. 

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34 minutes ago, kortopates said:

49033ded52a01a8f0e68f76b9b5d335e.jpg

Here is the magic tool in place. I have to remove mine to be able to pull off my starter. The above is after removing the intercooler and some other miscellaneous items.


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Well. There ya go. 

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I just made the tool myself - 1 old wrench 1 vice and 1 propane torch. 

 

More important is how to get the nut back on....  My A&P and I did the following

1. Properly clean the studs, without the pump in place make sure the nuts run freely.

2. Put the pump in place, place all washers and star washers in place.

3. You should find that the length of the stud is just enough to "capture" the nuts between the pump and the end of the stud.

4.  Pull the pump back enough to put the nut in place with a hemostat, push the pump forward to "capture" the nut

5, Carefully spin the nut with either you fingers (or screwdriver for the nut originally in question)

6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 till done... 

 

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Somebody mentioned the challenge of getting the nuts started in the hard to reach areas - this time saver tool, a screw driver with a brazed on dowel, makes it easy to hold it in place over the stud and spin it with a finger.

809ad51821ed85afd18cb79b3ea96dd3.jpg
d026579c51c4b62b6cf50c64625e9ab4.jpg


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Edited by kortopates
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Great idea Paul!
Clarence

I didn't invent it, but it has helped with many hard to reach installation issues.
A little piece of tape on the brass makes it able to hold the nut on upside down too.


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It’s all going smooth until you miss the nut with the screwdriver and ding the threads on the end of the stud and then with the nut jams up on the end of the stud, keep hitting it with a screwdriver until it bends  the stud and then it really won’t come off and  end up hammering the shit out of it was a 3 pound hammer for an hour until the stud snaps off. Yes.  

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1 hour ago, jetdriven said:

It’s all going smooth until you miss the nut with the screwdriver and ding the threads on the end of the stud and then with the nut jams up on the end of the stud, keep hitting it with a screwdriver until it bends  the stud and then it really won’t come off and  end up hammering the shit out of it was a 3 pound hammer for an hour until the stud snaps off. Yes.  

All in theory, right?

 

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I use a bent piece of 040 safety wire to get the nit next to the stud. Long before the Rapco tool we all used a screwdriver and hammer. Navajos come to mind. Got real good at it as we lost a lot of them back then. 

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6 hours ago, jetdriven said:

It’s all going smooth until you miss the nut with the screwdriver and ding the threads on the end of the stud and then with the nut jams up on the end of the stud, keep hitting it with a screwdriver until it bends  the stud and then it really won’t come off and  end up hammering the shit out of it was a 3 pound hammer for an hour until the stud snaps off. Yes.  

Or your “helper” doesn’t know the difference between a STD 1411 nut and an AN 315-4R nut and jambs it on the end of the stud.  There are many simple ways to screw up a simple task.

Clarence

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