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I’ve gotten some samples from Great Lakes Aero Products as I live nearby. The SC gray can be mistaken as clear from a distance (which is what I prefer). The dark tint (non SC) is similar to the rear windows of an automobile SUV. I was told by GLAP that the dark tint blocks just as much UV rays as the SC gray. 

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3 minutes ago, Bob_Belville said:

Green is out of style, I think. 

I like to looks of the gray better than the green. My E had all new glass when I got it and it was green, my 172 has gray, flown them back to back at night and the green works better for me at night

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12 hours ago, RLCarter said:

I like to looks of the gray better than the green. My E had all new glass when I got it and it was green, my 172 has gray, flown them back to back at night and the green works better for me at night

I agree with this one.

Even if I liked gray better, I went with green; one reason was to match a windshield that I didn't need to replace. Just something to think about...

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  • 7 months later...
21 hours ago, NotarPilot said:

I'd be curious to hear from people who have replaced all their windows and to know how many hours of labor can be expected for a full replacement.

I've done FWD side windows myself and have spend 7-8h per window (one weekend) working on the ramp and out of trunk of my car.

My shop, after that installed 201 aft windows in lieu of two small windows "F" has and it took them around 20h with 337 filed etc.. This was 11-12 years ago so not sure about details but it took a lot of labor.

 

Good luck.

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3 hours ago, Igor_U said:

I've done FWD side windows myself and have spend 7-8h per window (one weekend) working on the ramp and out of trunk of my car.

My shop, after that installed 201 aft windows in lieu of two small windows "F" has and it took them around 20h with 337 filed etc.. This was 11-12 years ago so not sure about details but it took a lot of labor.

 

Good luck.

This is the one video I CANNOT find on YouTube.  Thanks for the info.  I would like to do this project myself but I don't want to screw it up.

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Side windows  are a great project for the Mooney owner...

The old ones get removed, the new ones go back in there place...

There is a ton of work to clean up the old sealants...

start one window at a time....

Have a plan B... a Mechanic you can go to for help, if it gets away...

My project got held up by selecting the wrong color...

So I replaced one window twice...

knowing the right sealant to use is a really good idea too...

Drilling acrylic sheet requires the right tools...

Research the MS threads to see how it’s been done... lots o pics...

PP thoughts, not a mechanic...

Best regards,

-a-

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12 hours ago, kpaul said:

@Bob_Belville^^^^^^^maybe you can answer this question

KP, I thought that I had posted an answer a couple of days ago but I do not see it. My E is more work than a J in that all the side windows have to be drilled in place. And there a lot of screws to remove and re-install. I removed the seats and interior panels so that's several hours work. Then there's cleaning all the old sealants which was the most time consuming. My old E had 3 or 4 different materials. The windshield was much more involved because of the way it fits, no holes in the plexiglass but screws/nuts along the lower edge.

Having done it once I would not hesitate to take on this task - replace side windows - again. I believe this is a preventive maintenance for which the owner is specifically authorized to perform.

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1 hour ago, Bob_Belville said:

Having done it once I would not hesitate to take on this task - replace side windows - again. I believe this is a preventive maintenance for which the owner is specifically authorized to perform.

Yep 14 CFR 43 calls out side windows - but the windshield is an A&P / IA job.

 

"(13) Replacing side windows where that work does not interfere with the structure or any operating system such as controls, electrical equipment, etc."

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@NotarPilot here’s what is involved in a J replacement.  About 8-10 hrs to pull the interior maybe 4 to remove and 6 to replace.  

Side windows took me about 5 hours per window including removal, cleaning of old sealant.  

I had my windshield done at the shop in accordance with the FARs - experienced Mooney shop took 12 hrs and they were able to reuse the retainer flange. 

Mine were trimmed very close to match. I brought my old ones to the factory and they only needed to shave about a quarter inch off my front windows. One rear I needed to trim a bit more.  Trimming and fitting will take a lot of time if it’s required.  You will also need to drill for the pilot window and drill a hole for the lower front corner of the pilot window for a rivet

This is a job for summer time or a heated hangar.  You risk cracking your new windows in the winter  you will almost certainly crack one or two old ones on the way out.

Definitely get drill bits for acrylic- note the proper angles for countersinking and go slow.  Heat is the enemy. Any cutting or drilling should be done on a protected window surface. 

I’d  say sum it’s about 30-35 hours of “elf labor”. 

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From the RV construction tip manual--

Drill acrylic in a heated area.  Cold acrylic cracks more easily.

Use an acrylic drill bit.  Alternatively, grind flat the faces of the point in a regular drill bit so that the bit scrapes instead of cutting.  You want it to drill out small shavings instead of one long ribbon.

Go slowly to keep from heating the acrylic.

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On 1/15/2019 at 9:35 PM, NotarPilot said:

I'd be curious to hear from people who have replaced all their windows and to know how many hours of labor can be expected for a full replacement.

I just did this last year. If you have help, it should only take a couple of days. It takes longer than what you would think it does. One reason is you have to drill out the holes for the new windows. Not hard but you do want to take your time with it not to crack the window. 

 

Neal

 

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18 minutes ago, FlyboyKC said:

I just did this last year. If you have help, it should only take a couple of days. It takes longer than what you would think it does. One reason is you have to drill out the holes for the new windows. Not hard but you do want to take your time with it not to crack the window. 

 

Neal

 

@NotarPilot has a J. I don't think the plexi has to be drilled for Js. I could be wrong...

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[mention=8227]NotarPilot[/mention] has a J. I don't think the plexi has to be drilled for Js. I could be wrong...


Bob - What thickness glass did you use? When I talked to one of the vendors, they told me they could make 1/4” work by reducing the lip to a 3/16” thickness. They wanted my old glass to ensure proper fit. You need to do that?


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25 minutes ago, Marauder said:

 


Bob - What thickness glass did you use? When I talked to one of the vendors, they told me they could make 1/4” work by reducing the lip to a 3/16” thickness. They wanted my old glass to ensure proper fit. You need to do that?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

 

I bought mine from GLAP and went with 3/16" all around. 1/4" would have been a bear for the windshield in my case which is an E but with a 201 windshield. The depth that the plexi recessed into the slot around top and sides varied quite a bit. The side windows would be no problem at 1/8" (original for older vintage), 3/16", or 1/4". ISTM 3/16" works best, strong enough and while the sound level might be slightly improved with heavier plexi, Mooneys are loud, maybe the newest ones are better, and noise cancelling headsets have become standard.

I think @jetdriveninstalled 1/4" in his '77J and milled/chamfered the edge. I doubt you'd want to pay for the time he spent getting that perfect.

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2 hours ago, Bob_Belville said:

@NotarPilot has a J. I don't think the plexi has to be drilled for Js. I could be wrong...

My K has clips and did not require drilling, but they did have to be trimmed to fit. I probably spent 2 1/2 days doing the 4 windows, but I work terribly slowly.

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Just now, DonMuncy said:

My K has clips and did not require drilling, but they did have to be trimmed to fit. I probably spent 2 1/2 days doing the 4 windows, but I work terribly slowly.

The new plexi from GLAP need very minor trimming for my E. I did have to remove a little around a bolt on each side that was a mod for shoulder belts. I think I used a dremel with a fine burr. 

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2 hours ago, Bob_Belville said:

 

I think @jetdriveninstalled 1/4" in his '77J and milled/chamfered the edge. I doubt you'd want to pay for the time he spent getting that perfect.

Yes we used a dremel with the 80 grit drum sanders and milled a 3/16” step all along the edge. Including the bottom.  Probably took 12 hours. Plus installation.  You have to push the milled perimeter area further and further from the edge of the windshield. But not past the skin or the interior plastic because u can see it. 

A08039EE-3259-4BD1-8712-30AAD52B12D8.jpeg

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Edited by jetdriven
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