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Cowl Fasteners


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Hello,

    I know this subject has been talked about, but 1. I couldn't find it on a search and 2. I think its good to get current information.

I just got done repainting my cowl, I had removed all the old and rusty camlok's

Who has the best deal on new stainless steel fasteners?   I had seen some kits on the online auction site but  after counting all the ones I took off, it seems to break down to like almost $7 a fastener, and they are not the OEM camlok brand.   So has anyone recently bought new stainless hardware?

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My first annual I had upper and lower cowl repainted and some fiberglass work done.  I just called LAZAR.  Gave them my model and s/n and they put the required sizes and types into a package set and sent out that day.  No issues - even sent me a couple backups of each size to take on the road if required.

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ThEre are two tools to go with them... the pliers for removing the inner fastener and the tool that Mike posted above...

The Mooney parts catalog has all the right fastener details in terms of count and length.

There are two or so longer than the others where layers of Aluminum are used...

Consider using SS material choice...

Great project with excellent results...

Best regards,

-a- 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On ‎5‎/‎21‎/‎2018 at 3:24 PM, zerotact said:

Hello,

    I know this subject has been talked about, but 1. I couldn't find it on a search and 2. I think its good to get current information.

I just got done repainting my cowl, I had removed all the old and rusty camlok's

Who has the best deal on new stainless steel fasteners?   I had seen some kits on the online auction site but  after counting all the ones I took off, it seems to break down to like almost $7 a fastener, and they are not the OEM camlok brand.   So has anyone recently bought new stainless hardware?

Be careful with SS fasteners.  The backing and structure for the cowling is aluminum, so in theory, you could run into corrosion.  Realistically, camlocs have so little contact area compared to screws it's not an issue (I live in OR and got SS skybolt hardware), but if you're outdoors in a wet environment, who knows?

If you want the part #'s for skybolt, I can look them up at home.  I only replaced the small camlocs (3000 series?) because they were pulling through the fiberglass, the big camlocs have been fine.

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  • 3 years later...

Hi guys,

As my annual nears (April ... but better act now) I wanted to replace the 5 camloc-style fasteners that hold the aft edge of the top cowl on the airframe.  Only those.  Just 5 of them...  This is what I found:

https://store.skybolt.com/m20-c3p-p397.aspx

Of course, as a Mooney owner I know that I am expected to spend every single penny I ever make or can ever borrow on my Hangar Queen, but seriously, 300$ feels outrageous for 5 locks only.  All the rest, which are located on side panels, are in great shape.  Where can I find substitutes or buy them in small quantities?

Please help me cheat destiny... :unsure:

Thanks...

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1 hour ago, FlyingDude said:

Hi guys,

As my annual nears (April ... but better act now) I wanted to replace the 5 camloc-style fasteners that hold the aft edge of the top cowl on the airframe.  Only those.  Just 5 of them...  This is what I found:

https://store.skybolt.com/m20-c3p-p397.aspx

Of course, as a Mooney owner I know that I am expected to spend every single penny I ever make or can ever borrow on my Hangar Queen, but seriously, 300$ feels outrageous for 5 locks only.  All the rest, which are located on side panels, are in great shape.  Where can I find substitutes or buy them in small quantities?

Please help me cheat destiny... :unsure:

Thanks...

That's to replace every single c-loc fastener in the cowling, along with some extras and I think even the tools.  You can just get the individual fasteners from Skybolt as well.  I'm not sure there's an advantage to Skybolt in the E.  The main advantage is if your cowl has the 2600 series (smaller) fasteners, Skybolt makes a wide-flange version that's better for fiberglass holes.

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Buy the individual fasteners.  Use the 4000 series between the top cowling and the cowl deck.  The smaller 2000 series with the larger flange will fit into the Mooney small receptacles.  Talk to Skybolt to confirm what I have said.

John Breda

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Each part is just a couple dollars….

If you are looking to replace the core… the special pliers make it easy…

If your plane lived outside… the hardware filled with water and rusted easily…  the screw driver then removed the rust one layer at a time… thus camming out the camlocs… (my M20C experience…)

Plan on using the stainless version…

Exact dimensions are the part number…

Part numbers are best found in the Mooney parts catalog…

There may be two dimensions needed… the stems depend on how many layers they are holding together…

 

PP, not a mechanic….

Best regards,

-a-

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Found a bunch of info about camlocs, grommets, receptacles, etc. This one was good:

https://jet-tek.com/product-specialties/camloc-fasteners/4002-series/

I think there are a few combinations that would match my measurements... I'll check the parts manual and / or call skybolt on Monday... 

Thanks a lot guys...

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I bought one each of the 2000 series from Skybolt in sizes that I thought I would need. I did not replace the receptacles and as @carusoam stated above there will be some variation due to wear. I tried the different sizes and figured out what sizes I needed for each hole based on wear and hole depth. Ordered what I needed and a few extra and I’m happy. Use the wide flange stainless. 

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Guys,

So, I dug into the parts manual and found this on page 170:

image.png.c1debd6807218e759c50ed1702a24237.png

Between spruce and skygeek, I can find them.  I couldn't find the receptacle on skin drawings.  I have the 201 windshield mod.  I don't know if that also is a reason.  I deduced that the standard 4002 receptacle PN# 214-16 should work.  There are 3 flavors https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/receptacle.php

It feels like I should be getting floating & countersunk, because the existing ones are wiggly and rivets are flush on the surface.  You think they're are wiggly because the rivets are getting loose?  

Thanks a lot for your help :)

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