HRM Posted May 18, 2018 Report Share Posted May 18, 2018 Can anybody tell me how they R&R exhaust stacks on an E? Particularly the inner nut? Do you just put an open-end wrench on it vertically and turn the wrench with pliers? The outer nut can be accessed by an open-end fairly easily, but both it and the inner will not accommodate a socket because of the clearance with the pipe. I ordered 'thin-wall' sockets off Amazon, but no joy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KSMooniac Posted May 18, 2018 Report Share Posted May 18, 2018 I use a 1/4" drive swivel socket on a long extension.Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Belville Posted May 18, 2018 Report Share Posted May 18, 2018 I ground thin wall socket down thinner. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MB65E Posted May 18, 2018 Report Share Posted May 18, 2018 Ground down 12pt wobble socket. It’s a challenge depending how much material is welded on the stack for repairs. -Matt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MARZ Posted May 18, 2018 Report Share Posted May 18, 2018 28 minutes ago, KSMooniac said: I use a 1/4" drive swivel socket on a long extension. Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk +1 And when reinstalling - snug the inside nuts first - then the outside - and read long extension to mean past the bottom curve of the exhaust Pipe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N201MKTurbo Posted May 18, 2018 Report Share Posted May 18, 2018 I use a 1/4 drive socket on the inside nut. It will bias the pipe enough that I can't get the socket on the outside one but it is easy to get to with am open end or a crow's foot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 19, 2018 Report Share Posted May 19, 2018 A Snap On 1/4” drive 1/2” socket on a long extension works every time. Clarence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLCarter Posted May 19, 2018 Report Share Posted May 19, 2018 This what worked for me, but in a 12 point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy95W Posted May 19, 2018 Report Share Posted May 19, 2018 1/4" drive 12-point socket, plus a 12" and 3" extension. And it has to be a 12-point socket. The 6-point has too much wall thickness, believe it or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HRM Posted May 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2018 19 hours ago, Andy95W said: 1/4" drive 12-point socket, plus a 12" and 3" extension. And it has to be a 12-point socket. The 6-point has too much wall thickness, believe it or not. Well, here is where I am with this. After reading the posts, I thought @M20Doc (Clarence) matter-of-fact suggestion of a Snap-On 12 pt, 1/2", 1/4" drive socket sounded best, so I ordered one off of eBay. I really do not want to grind anything down and I had looked at Snap-On sockets before at their storefront site and went into CB shock and had to run down to HF and browse just to calm down. A video by the PowerFlow exhaust guys showed a tech using a very long extension to just reach up in and tighten away. Given the cost of those systems I would guess all his tools are Snap-On Of course, the PF headers may have extra clearance. So, the 12 pt vs 6 pt makes sense to me, we'll see. I paid $11.50 with shipping for the socket and if it just slips right up there I'll do a MasterCard commercial. Harley 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Peace Posted May 20, 2018 Report Share Posted May 20, 2018 I write checks. Works every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carusoam Posted May 20, 2018 Report Share Posted May 20, 2018 Watch the CEO of Snap-On on CNBC... their tools stand above the rest for quality, design, and purpose... or listen to Clarence...quality and purpose, by design... I got my first snap-on tool by working with my mechanic on the annual for my M20C... bought a pair of pliers that could grab the head of a screw that had been previously stripped.... that’s a pretty precise pair of pliers... I never took my own exhaust off before... but, is there much difference in R&R of the intake tubes? Aside from the added heat and oxidation issues... Looks like the weld material can be an individual challenge... Best regards, -a- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 20, 2018 Report Share Posted May 20, 2018 5 hours ago, HRM said: Well, here is where I am with this. After reading the posts, I thought @M20Doc (Clarence) matter-of-fact suggestion of a Snap-On 12 pt, 1/2", 1/4" drive socket sounded best, so I ordered one off of eBay. I really do not want to grind anything down and I had looked at Snap-On sockets before at their storefront site and went into CB shock and had to run down to HF and browse just to calm down. A video by the PowerFlow exhaust guys showed a tech using a very long extension to just reach up in and tighten away. Given the cost of those systems I would guess all his tools are Snap-On Of course, the PF headers may have extra clearance. So, the 12 pt vs 6 pt makes sense to me, we'll see. I paid $11.50 with shipping for the socket and if it just slips right up there I'll do a MasterCard commercial. Harley If you have to grind it down, you’re best to start with a Snap On as much as it hurts. They start off with better material so even thinned out they still work better. I have several $100 Snap On tools which I have ground down, life time warranty is now gone. Clarence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HRM Posted May 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2018 3 hours ago, M20Doc said: If you have to grind it down, you’re best to start with a Snap On as much as it hurts. They start off with better material so even thinned out they still work better. I have several $100 Snap On tools which I have ground down, life time warranty is now gone. Clarence Well, a Snap-On socket from eBay is probably not covered under their warranty and the .011 AMU that I paid is not going to cause me any heartburn if I do need to grind it down. Hope springs eternal, but just in case, I have a grinding wheel Harley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yetti Posted May 21, 2018 Report Share Posted May 21, 2018 The grumpy IA and the other A&P both have ground down sockets. the other place to use them is on the Electric gear actuator pulling it out. But I think that one is 7/16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yetti Posted May 21, 2018 Report Share Posted May 21, 2018 Is it rumored that the Husky brand of wrenchs and sockets are built by snap-on. Their fit and finish makes if believable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HRM Posted May 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2018 So happy---I really need to get a grip. Almost orgasmic when that socket just slipped up in there (see 1st photo). Summary: heed grumpy IAs, 12 pts are thinner walled than 6 pts, 1/4" drive are thinner than 3/8" drive from my limited data set. Apparently 0.6 mm made the difference. Oh yeah, let the cockpit humor commence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMuncy Posted May 23, 2018 Report Share Posted May 23, 2018 8 minutes ago, HRM said: So happy---I really need to get a grip. Almost orgasmic when that socket just slipped up in there (see 1st photo). Summary: heed grumpy IAs, 12 pts are thinner walled than 6 pts, 1/4" drive are thinner than 3/8" drive from my limited data set. Apparently 0.6 mm made the difference. Oh yeah, let the cockpit humor commence. You know these guys, don't you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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