RobertGary1 Posted April 13, 2018 Report Share Posted April 13, 2018 (edited) I'm going to replace the forward rod end on my aileron final linkage. Is it fair to assume that removing the pivot bolt on the bell crank will allow enough movement that you can actually access the rod end? I've only ever actually seen it via inspection camera or mirror since its behind the crank. -Robert Edited April 13, 2018 by RobertGary1 Add picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N201MKTurbo Posted April 13, 2018 Report Share Posted April 13, 2018 Is that the rod from the bell crank to the aileron? If so take the bolts out at both ends and remove the rod. If it is the long red from the center, remove the center link, the one with the gussets so you can slide the rod back and work in it. FWIW Replacing that rod end won't fix anything, but if it makes you feel better go for it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertGary1 Posted April 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2018 Can’t really access or see the bolts with the bell crank installed. Hopefully removing the bell crank pivot will provide some access. -Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N201MKTurbo Posted April 14, 2018 Report Share Posted April 14, 2018 4 hours ago, RobertGary1 said: Can’t really access or see the bolts with the bell crank installed. Hopefully removing the bell crank pivot will provide some access. -Robert I took the rod out a few times to paint them. I don't remember exactly what I did, but I don't think I had to remove the bell crank. I do remember that it was a PITA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 14, 2018 Report Share Posted April 14, 2018 When I’ve changed the rod end bearing, I unscrew the main aileron push rod from the rod end, take the bolt out of the aileron rod end bearing, then unscrew the push rod from the rod end bearing, then remove the bellcrank axle bolt and remove the bellcrank. Changing the rod end bearings in the wing is a royal pain. It can be done but it takes much longer. Clarence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertGary1 Posted April 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2018 (edited) On 4/13/2018 at 6:50 PM, M20Doc said: When I’ve changed the rod end bearing, I unscrew the main aileron push rod from the rod end, take the bolt out of the aileron rod end bearing, then unscrew the push rod from the rod end bearing, then remove the bellcrank axle bolt and remove the bellcrank. Changing the rod end bearings in the wing is a royal pain. It can be done but it takes much longer. Clarence Thanks Clarence. To confirm are you saying you disconnect the main linkage rod end in the belly? -Robert Edited April 16, 2018 by RobertGary1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 16, 2018 Report Share Posted April 16, 2018 7 hours ago, RobertGary1 said: Thanks Clarence. To confirm are you saying you disconnect the main linkage rod end in the belly? -Robert Robert, Yes, I remove the bolt at the inner end of the main push rod then turn it off of the rod end bearing at the bellcrank. Keep track of the number of turns for reassembly later. Clarence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertGary1 Posted April 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2019 Just did his job. Replaced both rod ends at the bell crank and the bushing the bell crank pivets on. Much easier than I feared. Disconnected the aileron in the belly and at the aileron. Then when you remove the pivot bolt for the bell crank you can move things around enough to access all. Simple box end on back and socket on front worked for the pivot and both rod ends. Replaced all nuts bolts while there in case some slop was from them. -Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 20, 2019 Report Share Posted April 20, 2019 2 hours ago, RobertGary1 said: Just did his job. Replaced both rod ends at the bell crank and the bushing the bell crank pivets on. Much easier than I feared. Disconnected the aileron in the belly and at the aileron. Then when you remove the pivot bolt for the bell crank you can move things around enough to access all. Simple box end on back and socket on front worked for the pivot and both rod ends. Replaced all nuts bolts while there in case some slop was from them. -Robert Glad you got it done, but I hope it didn’t take since April 2018 when you posted?? Clarence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertGary1 Posted April 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2019 31 minutes ago, M20Doc said: Glad you got it done, but I hope it didn’t take since April 2018 when you posted?? Clarence Ha. I forgot about it. IA called it out last year and I was going to order that hardware and do it and forgot until I took everything apart to prep for annual this year. Fortunately lasar had the bushing in stock and ships quick. Ordered online. I’m liking their new website. -Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertGary1 Posted April 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 The frustrating thing is that the left aileron still has more slop in the bell crank than the right. Must be some wear in the crank itself since everything else is new but it’s tight enough now my IA doesn’t worry about it. -Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 21, 2019 Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 The bellcrank bearings have an axle on which they turn, sometimes the shim washers on the top and bottom go missing, adding some additional play in the system. Check for vertical play on the bellcrank. Clarence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadrach Posted April 21, 2019 Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 20 minutes ago, M20Doc said: The bellcrank bearings have an axle on which they turn, sometimes the shim washers on the top and bottom go missing, adding some additional play in the system. Check for vertical play on the bellcrank. Clarence I can’t imagine that this is a a part that is removed very often. If you’ve seen a few of them it makes me think that some aircraft never had the shim washers installed at the factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertGary1 Posted April 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 2 hours ago, M20Doc said: The bellcrank bearings have an axle on which they turn, sometimes the shim washers on the top and bottom go missing, adding some additional play in the system. Check for vertical play on the bellcrank. Clarence Actually both sides have vertical play but I wasn’t concerned with that. The left has a bit of side to side play, much better now but still noticeable. I guess when I had the bell crank out I didn’t look close enough but you’re saying that the bushing ride on proper bearings in the bell crank? If they’ve worn out you’d have to replace the crank. -Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 21, 2019 Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 14 minutes ago, RobertGary1 said: Actually both sides have vertical play but I wasn’t concerned with that. The left has a bit of side to side play, much better now but still noticeable. I guess when I had the bell crank out I didn’t look close enough but you’re saying that the bushing ride on proper bearings in the bell crank? If they’ve worn out you’d have to replace the crank. -Robert I’ve never had to replace the bearing, I’ve had to slip a thin AN washer over the bushing between the bellcrank and the mounting brackets in the wing. Clarence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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