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Door Seals again


Bartman
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Mooneyspace Door Seal Poll  

38 members have voted

  1. 1. What product did you use for you new door seal

    • LASAR/Factory replacment
      7
    • AircraftDoorSeals
      11
    • MD Weatherstrip
      13
    • Other (please elaborate in comments)
      7
  2. 2. Who performed work

    • Me with signoff
      28
    • A+P/IA
      10


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3 minutes ago, Mike Ropers said:

Whatever the seal, a light coating of silicone - I use the stuff available at pool supply stores - will make em last longer, close easier, and more importantly seal better.

I don't think that will help with mine.  I already sealed a big tear with weatherstrip adhesive, I've put back together as much as I can.  A little silicone certainly wouldn't hurt anything though.  I suspect I'll keep living with it until I can't.

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1 hour ago, Marauder said:

 


Mine looked just like yours when I started. Here is the stuff I used:

3M 03618 Adhesive Remover - 12 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQYA7W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Iep2AbW44WGMM

If you have any silicone that might be there:

3M Caulk Remover 8 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H5VNG8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_bdp2AbZF0WWYV

A low impact to the surface for the tough stuff:

3M Stripe Off Wheel 07498, 4" Diameter x 5/8" Width, 3/8" Mandrel, Beige (Pack of 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00063VT0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Cbp2Ab6DE434H


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Yup, the 3M wheel with PPG Ditzo is was what i used, i had 50 years of gunk on mine, some places more than 1/8" thick. Key is to get it clean and wipe it again to get the oils from your hands off with the Ditzo.  Hit it at annual with some spray silicone.  I have had no issues since i replaced almost 2 years ago.

A bag of clothespins to hold it in place every few inches while applying helps.

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12 minutes ago, N201MKTurbo said:

If you have a hangar, leave the doors open. Your seals will last longer and seal better.

Many years ago I once left the pilot side vent window open in the hangar and foolishly left a package of cheese snacks in my flight bag on the front seat. Next time I came to the airport a rodent had chewed up my flight bag to get to the snacks and chewed the leather on the co-pilot's seat. A good upholstery shop made it like brand new but I don't leave my doors or windows open since then.

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5 minutes ago, LANCECASPER said:

Many years ago I once left the pilot side vent window open in the hangar and foolishly left a package of cheese snacks in my flight bag on the front seat. Next time I came to the airport a rodent had chewed up my flight bag to get to the snacks and chewed the leather on the co-pilot's seat. A good upholstery shop made it like brand new but I don't leave my doors or windows open since then.

You need a TKS airplane.   I leave my door and pilot window open all the time and never had an issue.  The fluid dripping off the wings after flying in possible icing conditions is attractive to rodents.  Unfortunately it’s also poisonous so my hangar is rodent free!

Tom

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You need a TKS airplane.   I leave my door and pilot window open all the time and never had an issue.  The fluid dripping off the wings after flying in possible icing conditions is attractive to rodents.  Unfortunately it’s also poisonous so my hangar is rodent free!
Tom

Sounds like I’ll have to leave some out in a tupawear.


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Alright so I tackled the door seal this week. I am at my work location and secondary hangar so no electric tools. After removal of the interior panels it looked like there were 3 layers of old glue in places.  It had been patched with more glue near the bottom by the guide rail attachment point and was especially thick there. Since there were no electric tools I used scrapers, both metal and plastic. I softened it with Goo Gone, but you have to keep it wet or the glue hardens again. A drill with some sort of nilon or plastic bristles would have made it much easier. Red Scotch Brite pads helped. 

Anyway, after two evenings of glue removal I got it down to shiny aluminum. After wiping down with rubbing alcohol I went with the M-D Weatherstrip from the Aviation Isle at Lowes and am very happy with the results.

 

 

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When I put my seals on they came with a little tube of silicone to lubricate them. That has long since been used up. I have a tube of Dow Corning DC-4 that is no longer needed for the oil filter with the new gaskets they have. It says that it is silicone, was considering using it on the door seals periodically. Thoughts? 

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On 4/19/2018 at 9:51 PM, N201MKTurbo said:

If you have a hangar, leave the doors open. Your seals will last longer and seal better.

I have never left mine open completely, but in the hangar I have always shut the door and engage the latch mechanism just enough to keep it closed but not full closure pressure.  Same for the baggage door and just lay it down but leave unlatched.  

Interestingly mine had what looked like factory style seals with a foam core and although they looked like crap and was torn in a couple of places it never ever leaked.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi everyone, yep I am still here.

For cleaning old adhesive off, I found that Goof Off (from the big box home improvement stores) works even better than MEK and does not smell as bad. It really zaps old Pliobond. Give it a shot (ha!).

 

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Glad to be back. Got pulled into KC-46 land, we are kinda busy!! Flightaware BOE462 or 464, I did a lot of those.

Back to topic, after letting the Goof Off soften the old Pliobond, I use a plastic scraper or plastic mold knife to get the stuff off. Wipe with a little fresh Goof Off on a rag, then when the surface is pristine, a little Metal Prep for a slight acid etch, and then, Dupli-Color self etching green metal primer (rattle can, from Napa Auto Parts and others. Accept no substitute on this.) It is a pretty decent drab green, and it grabs aluminum prepped like this like there is no tomorrow. When I can't get or don't want to fuss with PPG BMS 10-11....

 

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  • 1 month later...

Anyone have a pic of a door seal install on a Bravo or Ovation?   Per another users suggestion I called Brown AC supply and they sent me the "P" shaped seal and advised it is what Mooney used on the "later models".   My Bravo is a 94 and he assured me it was the correct part.  Because the seal that I removed was not correct I'm confused regarding installation.  

1. I assume it goes on the door and not the door jam.

2.  Does the fat part (the top of the P) go toward the edge of the door or does it sit against the plastic side in the 90 degree bend of the door?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

joe

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  • 2 years later...

Bumping this thread back up.  Maybe there is an older thread that's better, but this one has some good info. 

BTW- the best remover for taking off 3M trim adhesive is Peerco 321.  According to the MSDS the active ingredient is potassium hydroxide in a VOC gel made of turpenes.  Pleasant orange scent.   The KOH concentration is not high because the MSDS says the pH is 8.0.   It's expensive: $114/gal on spruce.  You can buy smaller sizes from other vendors.   I cut off my old door seal like trimming meat from a bone with a razor blade.   In many places the seal did not separate from the door frame and I was cutting the seal, not the adhesive.   This product not only turns the adhesive into tacky stuff, but also partially disintegrates the old seal.   A small wire brush and elbow grease turns it into tacky little snot-like balls that you can pull off. 

The Peerco product is sold to remove deice boots from wings.  Won't harm paint.

After the VOCs evaporate, all that is left is a white residue that washes off with water.   Wipe down several times with a damp rag to avoid transporting salts into the door.

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Question for the group.   I'm going to install the stuff that @Andy95W showed at the start of this thread.   Here's the question.  For those of you have installed this stuff, regarding install, what works best, A) or B)?  The old seal had major leaks along the bottom edge of the door, and a lot of wind noise from the forward portion of the upper door.  The door is flush with the exterior of the airframe when closed, so it's a seal problem not a door problem.

Thanks,

Fred

doorseal.png

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Question for the group.   I'm going to install the stuff that [mention=11090]Andy95W[/mention] showed at the start of this thread.   Here's the question.  For those of you have installed this stuff, regarding install, what works best, A) or default_cool.png?  The old seal had major leaks along the bottom edge of the door, and a lot of wind noise from the forward portion of the upper door.

Thanks,

Fred

doorseal.thumb.png.bf3a2756d10d95eeddf00f4f6c2240cd.png

I would put it where the door frame butts up against the fuselage frame.

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1 hour ago, ArtVandelay said:

I would put it where the door frame butts up against the fuselage frame.

My only experience is with the T-9088 seal Mooney uses. B is the best with the seal bulb centered over the rivet line on the door. The radius of the fuselage and door are not the same especially in the corners and there is a bigger gap to fill at A. 

Skip

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Fred- I did ‘B’, and placed it where it fit the best.  Too tight and the door won’t close, too loose and and it’ll make noise.

’A’ would probably work if your door fit loosely, but mine would have been too tight if I’d put it there.

Also, ‘A’ would probably start to pull the strip off the adhesive strip.  With the ‘B’ method, the adhesive holds it against the door and the compression makes it tight when the door is closed.

Edited by Andy95W
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Old memories….but I think I tried B first but could not get consistent closure…too tight.  Also, there are a series of rivets on B, making it more difficult to get the seal to hold and causing a variable gap.  I think I ended up with a something more like A, but adjusted to the gap.  

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Installed weatherstripping yesterday in position 'B" above.  The product seems to be almost perfect in terms of width, thickness, and stiffness.   Must pull in on the door just a bit harder than before to close it, but not that much more.   After I closed the door from the inside, co-pilot standing outside had trouble hearing me talk. Can't wait to flight test it.    

The one difference from position B that we noted occurred in the lower-forward portion of the door.  After doing the original install, from inside using flashlight I looked into the 3/8" gap between door and aircraft and could see 3/5 of the seal.  Before adhesive became super set, we removed the last section we added in that corner and positioned new seal considerably lower to increase contact between seal and airframe.

The perimeter of the door in our C is 10'3" so buy two rolls.  You'll have plenty.   Lay it on, don't stretch product during placement.   We used scissors to cut small "V" shapes from inner portion of seal to help it bend around the corners without torsion and excessive deformation.

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There are two versions of door seals
pre J
and After
J model 
The pic is later version with aerospace grade ams3301 30 duro 
Very soft 
correct design for door closure 
shipped with clear silicone cement 
rear baggage late is next
GB
 
 
 
 
9FE0B04F-2D4A-40EB-A958-30C0041F3945.thumb.jpeg.7d28f23c48a1a00ce767a14c442ac9fd.jpeg

And the bulb is installed to the inside or outside of the door frame?
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