Pictreed Posted March 19, 2018 Report Posted March 19, 2018 I'm going to get a reseal on my tanks but how would I make a temporary repair for now? It's leaking on the inboard side at the bottom. I can see it from inside the cabin. I'd like to open the tank access and just pooky some material in the corner to slow it down for now. Tim Quote
carusoam Posted March 19, 2018 Report Posted March 19, 2018 Schedule with DMax... if able... He or his people will be able to fix the immediate challenge... if there is more work to be done, he can show you what you may want to consider. Some Sealants in the past have failed and start falling off in worm shaped pieces... Newer Sealants have not stood the test of time in minor ways, like the mating surfaces of access panels.... Then there is the leak here, but show up, far away... these are the tough ones. DMax has the skills and tools to determine exactly what is leaking and where... Best regards, -a- Quote
EricJ Posted March 19, 2018 Report Posted March 19, 2018 When my airplane was at Maxwell's last September for a tank patch I think it was $650 flat for the job. Quote
Brandontwalker Posted March 20, 2018 Report Posted March 20, 2018 I'm going to get a reseal on my tanks but how would I make a temporary repair for now? It's leaking on the inboard side at the bottom. I can see it from inside the cabin. I'd like to open the tank access and just pooky some material in the corner to slow it down for now. Tim I just did a repair of the same issue (wet carpet in back seat) per the D Max method. Removed the top access panels and pumped out the fuel on Friday night after work. Saturday morning, washed out the tank with soap and water with the sump removed. Identified the leak with soap/water/shop vac. My IA confirmed my findings and I scraped the existing sealant back approximately 8 inches in all directions from the leak. This was by far the hardest part because the leak was behind the fuel pick-up and screen. There was apparently a previous leak in the area as was evidenced by sloppy sealant and sealant all over the screen (I wrapped a rag soaked with MEK around the screen and the sealant pretty much dissolved). I was surprised about how much the rivets interfered with scraping the tank. I had my IA reapply the sealant and seal the access panels. His total time on the job was around 1.5 hours (I paid him 2.5). Leak free for now. Good luck and do not be intimidated by a patch job. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 4 Quote
RobertGary1 Posted March 20, 2018 Report Posted March 20, 2018 ONce you patch it you’ll forget about the reseal. These are wet tanks, patching is expected but lasts a long time. -Robert 1 Quote
Pictreed Posted March 20, 2018 Author Report Posted March 20, 2018 What kind of patching material have you guys used? I guess it would be available at Aircraft Spruce? Quote
Brandontwalker Posted March 20, 2018 Report Posted March 20, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, Pictreed said: What kind of patching material have you guys used? I guess it would be available at Aircraft Spruce? I used the FlameMaster products specified in the D Max article. Spruce does not carry CS-3330 for the access panels. I called about it and was told I am the first person to ever ask for it (I find that hard to believe). Skygeek carries the access panel sealant, so you are probably best to order both sealants from them. I will note that my access panels were sealed with tank sealant and they were a real B**** to remove. Hopefully the use of the proper sealant on the access panels will make the job easier next time. Also, a $2 caulk gun from Harbor Freight is perfect for the pre-measured sealant tubes. It will likely be ruined by the time you are finished, so toss it in the trash with your mound of soiled rags Edited March 20, 2018 by Brandontwalker Quote
carusoam Posted March 20, 2018 Report Posted March 20, 2018 Definitely good to know the two types of Flame Master... and the right solvent(s)... getting the solvent in the wrong place can be a big hassle... Getting the time and temp for curing properly is helpful... There are a thread or two around here by young guys that opted to strip and seal the whole project themselves... @Raptor05121 included a bunch of nice pics and details I believe... Best regards, -a- Quote
Immelman Posted March 20, 2018 Report Posted March 20, 2018 (edited) Read the article on Don Maxwell's site about finding leaks and opening the tank. Read your Mooney service and maintenace manual for the sealants and procedure to patch. The more recent model years manuals have listed the current part numbers of sealants to use made by flamemaster... Skygeek has all the stuff. None of it is extremely difficult, but there are many steps, and it is time consuming. Be meticulous with your cleaning and prep work. Edited March 20, 2018 by Immelman Quote
bradp Posted March 20, 2018 Report Posted March 20, 2018 Some of the sealant part numbers referenced in the vintage mooney manual have been superseded and this results in a lot of confusion as to what part number is needed for what job. This is the most current and logical guide to fuel tank sealants I have come across Do not use fuel tank sealant (ie 3204) on the access panels. You will curse someone and probably bend the panel next time it needs to come off. 2 Quote
Guest Posted March 20, 2018 Report Posted March 20, 2018 3 hours ago, bradp said: Some of the sealant part numbers referenced in the vintage mooney manual have been superseded and this results in a lot of confusion as to what part number is needed for what job. This is the most current and logical guide to fuel tank sealants I have come across Do not use fuel tank sealant (ie 3204) on the access panels. You will curse someone and probably bend the panel next time it needs to come off. Except the panel in the wingwalk area, it needs stronger sealant. Clarence Quote
DualRatedFlyer Posted March 20, 2018 Report Posted March 20, 2018 @bradp I think your upload failed to stick (at least it looks that way on my mobile). Any chance you can upload again? Would be interested in having a read. Quote
carusoam Posted March 20, 2018 Report Posted March 20, 2018 Repost of the URL from an iPad... https://www.rivetbangers.com/documents/tank_sealant.pdf See if that works... Best regards, -a- 2 1 Quote
DualRatedFlyer Posted March 20, 2018 Report Posted March 20, 2018 1 minute ago, carusoam said: Repost of the URL from an iPad... https://www.rivetbangers.com/documents/tank_sealant.pdf See if that works... Best regards, -a- That did it. Thanks 1 Quote
Pictreed Posted March 21, 2018 Author Report Posted March 21, 2018 19 hours ago, M20Doc said: Except the panel in the wingwalk area, it needs stronger sealant. Clarence Rats, that's the one I need to remove. Thanks Clarence. Quote
Guest Posted March 21, 2018 Report Posted March 21, 2018 4 hours ago, Pictreed said: Rats, that's the one I need to remove. Thanks Clarence. The panel in the wingwalk area has 4 additional hidden screws outside of the panel area on some models. Clarence Quote
RobertGary1 Posted March 22, 2018 Report Posted March 22, 2018 15 hours ago, M20Doc said: The panel in the wingwalk area has 4 additional hidden screws outside of the panel area on some models. Clarence Yes. There’s an additional brace that’s runs under the panel. It’s also held in by screws -Robert Quote
mooniac15u Posted March 22, 2018 Report Posted March 22, 2018 On 3/19/2018 at 6:38 PM, Pictreed said: I'm going to get a reseal on my tanks but how would I make a temporary repair for now? It's leaking on the inboard side at the bottom. I can see it from inside the cabin. I'd like to open the tank access and just pooky some material in the corner to slow it down for now. Tim Are you sure it's actually leaking from that corner or is the fuel just running down to that spot? Quote
Immelman Posted March 22, 2018 Report Posted March 22, 2018 (edited) 23 hours ago, Pictreed said: Rats, that's the one I need to remove. Thanks Clarence. Having gone through this recently.... have you read Don Maxwell's article? Specifically the part that says the leak in the tank is not where it shows up on the outside? Remove both top panels. Get 4 mirrors cut to put on the bottom of each bay. Get our the soapy water, vacuum cleaner, and plexiglass. Wash the tank very thoroughly after you're done, and after your avgas leak test, filter that gas through a chamois to remove the last bits of soap. This is a lot of work. Edited March 22, 2018 by Immelman Quote
Guest Posted March 23, 2018 Report Posted March 23, 2018 I’d suggest a different method. Once the tank is open, tape and seal a clear plexiglass cover over each top access opening, fill the tank with water and apply vacuum through the vent line, individual bubbles are much easier to spot through water than through foamy soap. You can take picture or video of the bubbles to find the exact spot when the water is drained. Clarence Quote
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