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What Jacks do you Reccommend?


MBDiagMan

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Seriously, $10 on Amazon. You need to mic your ram though. They are all different sizes.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026GZQVY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks, I read on another thread the hf rams or an off size and people had to trim out stock collars on a lathe. I will look over the link.


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On further review...

Shaft collars are used in a bazillion commercial machine applications available in both inches and mm. And a few different materials as well....

The key words to use in the search are ‘shaft collar’....

 

Expanding this idea with Dave’s input, and mike’s smile.Amazon....

https://smile.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Dindustrial&field-keywords=Shaft+collar&rh=n%3A16310091%2Ck%3AShaft+collar

 

Another industrial resource....

 

https://www.grainger.com/category/shaft-collars/shaft-couplings-collars-and-universal-joints/power-transmission/ecatalog/N-1d90

See if that helps.  Measuring the shaft ID is pretty critical for getting the best fit.

The suppliers probably even give recommendations for collar size based on shaft ID.

Too large, the collar won’t be tight enough.  Too small, the collar may leave some bite marks on the shaft...

PP thoughts only, not an industrial mechanic...

Best regards,

-a-

 

 

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Lest anyone jump in to get some of the ones cited above, be sure not to get those which use a "set screw" which can mar the surface of the jack shaft. Although those which use two screws to pinch the shaft will work, I think those which use a single pinch screw are the easiest to use for this purpose.

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5 hours ago, xcrmckenna said:


Thanks, I read on another thread the hf rams or an off size and people had to trim out stock collars on a lathe. I will look over the link.


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Harbor Freight is all about China, so the one I bought for my hoist ram was metric. The collars come in inches and metric. I measured my ram with a caliper that can read both. Anyhow, Amazon had that metric size, but I don't remember what it was. The Alpha Aviation jacks came with locking collars.

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2 hours ago, RLCarter said:

I'm not sure you could make the locking collars that cheap, hell if your an amazon prime member it would be faster....:D

Yes. If you're itching to make these yourself, it really says you crave a new shop project more than anything. You cannot defeat the power of China. These are easily accessible and basically dirt cheap, partly due to the power of China.:(

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Here is what I came up with. I didn't want to weld directly to the jack body so I used the clamp and welded the steel to some angle iron- the band clamps are only a backup- the steel is so stiff it doesn't want to move at all. Just ordered some 28mm bore locking collars as well, now I just need to figure out how to make the top of the ram accept my LASAR jack points. 

IMG_0101.JPG

IMG_0102.JPG

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3 hours ago, N6758N said:

 

 

IMG_0102.JPG

Maybe it's me but I'm not sure if I'd trust what looks like coolant hoses on top to hold the jack upright as any side load could popped them open. I would prefer something more substantial, like jacks on page 2.

Annual story of a friend pops up in my mind: as soon as the gear was up for a swing test, a strong earthquake hit Pacific Northwest and he was watching his plane precariously balancing on the jacks. What were the odds? Anyway, jacks and plane survived that test! ;) 

 

 

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3 hours ago, Igor_U said:

Maybe it's me but I'm not sure if I'd trust what looks like coolant hoses on top to hold the jack upright as any side load could popped them open. I would prefer something more substantial, like jacks on page 2.

Annual story of a friend pops up in my mind: as soon as the gear was up for a swing test, a strong earthquake hit Pacific Northwest and he was watching his plane precariously balancing on the jacks. What were the odds? Anyway, jacks and plane survived that test! ;) 

 

 

Thanks, but the clamps are not supporting any weight, even if there is a side load as I said. The metal I used is sufficiently stiff to support that. The clamps are only there to keep the metal attached to the jack, as I did not want to weld to the jack body. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I made a jack just like someone else on this site did....couldn't have worked out any better....

 

two 3ton long ram bottle jacks...they only cost about $45 each...wood table top from Home Depot, some 4"dryer vent clamps, some flattend 23"  pieces of 1"EMT...bolted jack and conduit through the wood using flat head screws for the jack and carriage bolts for the conduit...easy to make, fool proof solutionIMG_0915.thumb.JPG.447e2a739bd4addbc9c9861f521bbccd.JPG

Edited by larrynimmo
tried to rotate
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  • 1 month later...

My jacks are done. I bought the harbor freight jacks and went from there. I cut the first two inches off the ram shaft. The jack was designed for a pin. I welded a 3/4” nut on top. My Lasar jack lift points and tie downs fit down in the nut with about 1/8” left. Almost perfect.



I used a 3/8 plate for the jack to sit on. I put blocks around the base of the jack to keep it from moving. I couldn’t weld it to the base plate because it’s cast. I notched the legs so they slide over the base plate. It gave me more area to weld the two together. 489f7e055a7ac56401b8090c8fe0c6ec.jpg1146417d458206114a3ff09ce0a8a8d5.jpgfd02a46767266e913547d4ff13baf913.jpg3c54a4f5665ab984d9c7c1fc8c9e1fcf.jpgc48e54f6a1fc01e949dc491f5f91ad8b.jpgIMG]306425b10b5516e092fe022bf513a20c.jpg

So far they are working great. Two days in the air, and the locking collars are doing their jobs.


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Great pics, Charles!
One question... Why the Nut welded on the top?   
Is there additional value to the threads inside there?
Best regards,
-a-

No value in the treads. It was easier to weld them on top then drilling a hole in the steel ram. I’ll take pictures of the meeting in the morning.


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10 hours ago, xcrmckenna said:


. I couldn’t weld it to the base plate because it’s cast. I notched the legs so they slide over the base plate.
 

If you flip your channel over and use wider channel, you could drill and tap the cast iron base and then run bolts up from the bottom.   Well done.   Thank you for not using wood or plywood.

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If you flip your channel over and use wider channel, you could drill and tap the cast iron base and then run bolts up from the bottom.   Well done.   Thank you for not using wood or plywood.


I thought about drilling holes through the small tabs on the edges of the jack and a hole through the plate then pinning it with some 3/8 round bar. Then it wouldn’t ever slid. But I don’t have the patience for drilling cast. If I messed up the cast, I’m a 3 hour drive just to get a new jack. I figured the blocks would work. If there is that much pressure to move the base of the jacks the plane is coming down with any jack stands. Probably due to someone hitting the plane with a tug or other vehicle.

This way there is max contact to the floor with the channels up and makes for a flat surface. I still might weld bolts out on the end of the legs for leveling.


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If you flip your channel over and use wider channel, you could drill and tap the cast iron base and then run bolts up from the bottom.   Well done.   Thank you for not using wood or plywood.

be2a084516be5752a89571560cc8ff13.jpg

I noticed this picture didn’t load. It shows what I mean by blocking the base of the jack.



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I read in one post about the main tire going flat and the aircraft sinking down to it....... my question, do these HF jacks fit underneath the jack pad with a tire flat? I ran into this this winter using an aviation jack, fits when the tire is inflated, but not when flat. 

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I read in one post about the main tire going flat and the aircraft sinking down to it....... my question, do these HF jacks fit underneath the jack pad with a tire flat? I ran into this this winter using an aviation jack, fits when the tire is inflated, but not when flat. 

My measurements say yes it should fit under the jack points.


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