RobertGary1 Posted January 20, 2018 Report Share Posted January 20, 2018 The roll pin in my fuel cap plunger is very stuff. There doesn't seem to be any way to get lubricant into it (I try every year when I service the caps). Has anyone tried having a machine shop press it out and press a new one in? I'm not sure what size pin it would be but I assume they're pretty standard. Sure seems like someone could start a business rebuilding these expensive caps. Replace the roll pin and drill out the center of the cap and press a new sleve into it if its egg shaped out. -Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronDC8402 Posted January 20, 2018 Report Share Posted January 20, 2018 The latch on our cap had gotten annoyingly difficult to operate recently. I dripped some engine oil on top of the cap, and now it works much better. It's been about a month since I did that, and it's still just as good as the day that I lubed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N201MKTurbo Posted January 20, 2018 Report Share Posted January 20, 2018 (edited) Use a punch to knock the pin out. Get a new one on the aviation isle at the Ace Hardware or McMaster Carr. Use a vise to press in the new one. It is hard to imagine it is bound up. If it gets warn out it should operate easier. Take the nut off and pull the shaft out of the hole. Take the little o ring off, oil the shaft and bore and work the two together until it works easily. Clean it off and put some grease on the shaft along with a new o ring put it together and adjust it so it doesn't close too tight or too loose. Than put a new cotter pin on. If it is hard to get the tab up and it isn't adjusted too tight than a little filing to fix the edge contour of the tab will get it in good shape again. Edited January 20, 2018 by N201MKTurbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertGary1 Posted January 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2018 The stiffness is felt when the cap is fully disassembled just moving the top. I still don’t think there is a way to get oil in the role pin. -Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertGary1 Posted January 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2018 55 minutes ago, N201MKTurbo said: Use a punch to knock the pin out. It is hard to imagine it is bound up. If it gets warn out it should operate easier. Take the nut off and pull the shaft out of the hole. The plunger is not in the cap. -Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N201MKTurbo Posted January 20, 2018 Report Share Posted January 20, 2018 3 minutes ago, RobertGary1 said: The plunger is not in the cap. -Robert OK, so what are you talking about? The title of the post is the "Fuel Cap Plunger" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertGary1 Posted January 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2018 (edited) 9 minutes ago, N201MKTurbo said: OK, so what are you talking about? The title of the post is the "Fuel Cap Plunger" Moving the lever on the plunger is very stiff when it’s not in the cap. -Robert Edited January 20, 2018 by RobertGary1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLCarter Posted January 20, 2018 Report Share Posted January 20, 2018 7 minutes ago, RobertGary1 said: Moving the lever on the plunger is very stiff when it’s not in the cap. -Robert Spray some Tri-Flo on it around where the tab and plunger meet, it will wick in around the pin and all will be good 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yetti Posted January 20, 2018 Report Share Posted January 20, 2018 you got corrosion in there. spray with silicone spray and work it back and forth alot. spray again to flush all the bad stuff out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertGary1 Posted January 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 6 minutes ago, RLCarter said: Spray some Tri-Flo on it around where the tab and plunger meet, it will wick in around the pin and all will be good That’s what I’ve been trying but can’t get any penetration at all. I wonder if I pressed out the pin I could clean it up and reinstall it. I’m not sure the size of the pin to replace it. -Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLCarter Posted January 21, 2018 Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 Is it tight through out the full range of movement or just in one area? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hank Posted January 21, 2018 Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 I just took mine apart today and replaced the oring inside it. It's very simple, just two ways to put it back together (one way clamps to the tank, one way does not. Ask me how I know . . . . ). Didn't see anything pressed in, the one castle nut holds it all together. Pull the cotter pin, unscrew the castle nut, remove tthe be washer under it. Lift off the bottom face, remove the spring and push the center pin and latch out. If it doesn't move free, clean it up while it's apart. Pay attention to how it's assembled, and you'll have an easier time putting it back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMuncy Posted January 21, 2018 Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 I think he is talking about the pin that pivots the top lever on the vertical rod. Since most of ours move freely in that joint, we have never disassembled that joint. If one took a thin punch and punched the pin part way out, you could put a caliper on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertGary1 Posted January 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 9 minutes ago, RLCarter said: Is it tight through out the full range of movement or just in one area? It seems to be the whole 180+ degrees of movement is stiff. Just holding it in my hand it’s difficult to move with two hands. I usually exercise it by pressing the lever against the Work bench and pushing down with two hands. I almost wonder if I pressed the pin out 1/2 way and cut it off it would be good I doubt I need the entire pin and that should reduce drag -Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hank Posted January 21, 2018 Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 1 minute ago, DonMuncy said: I think he is talking about the pin that pivots the top lever on the vertical rod. Since most of ours move freely in that joint, we have never disassembled that joint. Putting mine back together today, when it was tight to flip down meant that I had the castle nut turned too tight. Loosened it one castle-nut-slot at a time until it moved freely, the pushed the cotter pin through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMuncy Posted January 21, 2018 Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 1 minute ago, Hank said: Putting mine back together today, when it was tight to flip down meant that I had the castle nut turned too tight. Loosened it one castle-nut-slot at a time until it moved freely, the pushed the cotter pin through. Absolutely correct Hank. I assumed he had disassembled it and it still would not "flip". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hank Posted January 21, 2018 Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 Just now, DonMuncy said: Absolutely correct Hank. I assumed he had disassembled it and it still would not "flip". In that case, disassemble as above, clamp the pin in protected vise jaws (use scrap aluminum to,protect the pin surface) and work the flap several times. Put your favorite lubricant on it, preferably Tri-Flo or thin machine oil (not WD40!). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLCarter Posted January 21, 2018 Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 6 minutes ago, RobertGary1 said: I almost wonder if I pressed the pin out 1/2 way and cut it off it would be good I doubt I need the entire pin and that should reduce drag -Robert I wouldn't, I can't remember if the pin floats in the shaft or the tab, you might try a little heat (heat gun) and see if that helps 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 21, 2018 Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 I’ve taken one apart in the ast, the pin was tight in the aluminum lift tab and free in the steel shaft. Warm the aluminum and drive the pin out with a good pin punch, clean up the centre of the pin and reinstall it. Clarence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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