Browncbr1 Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 10 hours ago, MooneyF said: Any recommendations/experience with Slick mags? Never order Kelley “overhauled” slicks... you should remove and ship directly to Aaron Williams at Select Aircraft in Texas. If the engine has 25degree timing, keep it that way and don’t follow Slick’s guidance.. it is a pain and costly to undo the SB that changed timing to 20degrees and you just lose performance and foul plugs. Use MS search function often on any topic. There are many threads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetdriven Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 For about the same price you can get rid of slick mags and put Bendix mags on there and they will run 500 hours with basically no maintenance at all. New set of points and condenser every 500 hours with the inspection and they will run to TBO without a failure. Getting stranded with a bad mag costs about 2000$ or more, plus it blows out your trip. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrixxer Posted January 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 On 1/21/2018 at 11:32 PM, Shadrach said: The above statement points to poor "maintenance", not poor design. The step is vacuum operated; if it's sealed and free of obstruction it works, if it leaks or is obstructed, it doesn't. The manual flaps are a hydraulic system, the system is either fluid tight, free of air and properly set or it's not. The systems are just that simple so it's easy to deduce that neither of the systems you were using where in proper working order. Maintaining a different type of system to the same "standard" is not likely to yield better results. I wasn't aware you were there supervising the A&Ps that worked on it... The step needed parts that were not available (IIRC it was the servo). It would have been fixed if I'd been able to, but again, parts weren't available. Shortly after it became a moot issue, I got a note from Brittain that they'd started servicing them again (something to do with tooling issues IIRC). The hydraulic flap system was disassembled, inspected, repaired, bled, etc., but was still not as described by the 'book. However, I've flown a friend's C (same mechanism), very well maintained, full pre-buy with annual by LASAR less than six months ago, and her flaps take three pumps to 1/2, 2 more to full (should be 2 and 2.5 respectively). The guy who worked on the flaps routinely works on several Mooneys on the field and came recommended by a flight school that fields 2 "vintage" M20s; a 201 and a 231 and another E were in the shop when my work was done. My vehicles get maintained by folks who know the details. (Well, except the Jeep. Anyone can work on a 22 year old straight-six Wrangler.) The (1994) Porsche goes to Dutch Treat. The (2004) BMW goes to GT International. The (2006) Ducati goes to ProItalia. I've owned the Jeep since new, the Porsche since before the "W" administration, the BMW was a CPI in '06, the Ducati I bought new. All run well and get the attention they need. I'd put five figures into the E while I had her, and if the shops on the field at SMO, and my independent A&P, hadn't all been booked up for weeks, it would have had another couple of grand of work done ... Even with those delays, she had all new rubber and tubes (Flight Special IIs and AirStops). So, hey, unless you're hanging out in the shop with us (there's always Corona, bring limes) and writing the checks, how 'bout not making assumptions about my maintenance regime... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrixxer Posted January 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 18 hours ago, MooneyF said: Ok, that's encouraging. It doesn't sound like a major issue but rather part of the maintenance. I was talking with a friend on mine that told me to beware of major problems with fuel tank leaks, that's why I asked! Same question about the MAGS, do you overhaul at 500hrs and is it an expensive thing to do? The issue with the fuel tanks is, when (not if) they need to be (stripped and) resealed, it's not cheap. I've heard about $7,000 for both tanks. I've also heard the anticipated lifespan of a seal job is about 15 years (the tanks on 3RM were done 2 years ago and came with a 7 year warranty), but of course YMMV and anecdotes abound on both sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carusoam Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 Remember to leave some room, for different people, with different backgrounds, with different writing and typing skills. If it helps... We are all on the same team. Best regards, -a- 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadrach Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 (edited) On 1/23/2018 at 3:24 AM, chrixxer said: I wasn't aware you were there supervising the A&Ps that worked on it... The step needed parts that were not available (IIRC it was the servo). It would have been fixed if I'd been able to, but again, parts weren't available. Shortly after it became a moot issue, I got a note from Brittain that they'd started servicing them again (something to do with tooling issues IIRC). The hydraulic flap system was disassembled, inspected, repaired, bled, etc., but was still not as described by the 'book. However, I've flown a friend's C (same mechanism), very well maintained, full pre-buy with annual by LASAR less than six months ago, and her flaps take three pumps to 1/2, 2 more to full (should be 2 and 2.5 respectively). The guy who worked on the flaps routinely works on several Mooneys on the field and came recommended by a flight school that fields 2 "vintage" M20s; a 201 and a 231 and another E were in the shop when my work was done. My vehicles get maintained by folks who know the details. (Well, except the Jeep. Anyone can work on a 22 year old straight-six Wrangler.) The (1994) Porsche goes to Dutch Treat. The (2004) BMW goes to GT International. The (2006) Ducati goes to ProItalia. I've owned the Jeep since new, the Porsche since before the "W" administration, the BMW was a CPI in '06, the Ducati I bought new. All run well and get the attention they need. I'd put five figures into the E while I had her, and if the shops on the field at SMO, and my independent A&P, hadn't all been booked up for weeks, it would have had another couple of grand of work done ... Even with those delays, she had all new rubber and tubes (Flight Special IIs and AirStops). So, hey, unless you're hanging out in the shop with us (there's always Corona, bring limes) and writing the checks, how 'bout not making assumptions about my maintenance regime... We have similar taste in cars and airplanes. Do you think those of us with properly function systems are just lucky? Do you think I just want you to feel bad about your mechanic? My delivery is sometimes terse but my goal is almost always to be helpful. If someone replaced the clutch in your Porsche and on the drive home you found it to vibrate and be noisy on engagement, would you blame the transmission or assume something was wrong with the installation? Would you sarcastically chastise an experienced but non involved person for suggesting it was bad installation because they didn't supervise the install? Do you think the retractable step and flaps that you described could not be made to work to factory specifications? If so, I would urge you to rethink your stance regarding aircraft maintenance. Edited January 24, 2018 by Shadrach 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadrach Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 1 hour ago, carusoam said: Remember to leave some room, for different people, with different backgrounds, with different writing and typing skills. If it helps... We are all on the same team. Best regards, -a- Anthony, I know it’s a stretch from your chosen profession, but I think that you’d make a fine mediator. You’re as decorous in person as you are online, perhaps even moreso. When you retire, you should look into getting an ADR degree ... You deserve course credit for some of your MS posts! It’d be a great second career! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadrach Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 (edited) 3 hours ago, bluehighwayflyer said: Here is the difference between you and @Shadrach, @chrixxer. His Mooney has been in his family for 50 years. He has IRAN'd it's engine himself, and has been through every system and knows each intimately. You purchased your former E on eBay for bottom dollar from a salvage operation. You told me yourself that all you cared about in terms of it's airworthiness for your intended day/night, high density traffic area, multiple operator "ride share", light IFR mission was that it was in annual. You then totaled it in just a few months and were incredibly lucky to survive. Res ipsa loquitor, IMHO. A little humility goes a long way. Thanks Flyer, Indeed I have been through my airframe more thoroughly than anyone else. In no way would I suggest that it’s the best maintained F in the fleet but I know its short comings and what’s going to be next on the agenda (likely tank reseal). The truth is that the early birds are simple enough for most mx inclined people to understand (though I frequently learn new things here and elsewhere). I think the ‘60s build quality is good. I take issue with some of the hardware and assembly. The judicious use of unsecured tinnerman nuts in hard to reach areas... I assumed that many of the fairings were affixed with just sheet metal screws because so many tinnermans had been left off by previous mechanics. @M20Docset me straight on that and I’ve been on a mission to replace ever since. Dragging a magnet under the battery box yielded a treasure trove of old tinnees. A point of clarification, I did not IRAN my own engine, I acted more as a general contractor choosing who performed what tasks. I was there when the case was split and the builder and I easily came to a consensus on the best course of action. I physically removed and hung the engine. The install has never come into question in the last 8 years. Edited January 23, 2018 by Shadrach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M20F-1968 Posted February 9, 2018 Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 What I have not seen as i skimmed this discussion is the the 67 is a clean wing with many flush rivets. The 69 was made after the cost cutting and dose not have as many flush rivets, particular on the bottom. This makes for a much slower plane. I have the twisted wing, on a highly modified F (I mean almost J) and it is a 160 kt airplane at 10,000ft. All things being equal, I would choose the 67 with the Johnson Bar and flush rivets (Clean wing). John Breda 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrRodgers Posted February 21, 2018 Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 Chrixxer Just curious how the plane search/decision is going for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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