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Polishing Windshield


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On 1/27/2020 at 1:42 AM, ArtVandelay said:

My glare shield is warped, can I use a heat gun and reshape it?


Tom

Yes, I did that with mine. The whole glare shield is thermoformed from ABS sheet material in the first place. Just go slowly because it goes from stiff to very pliable quickly. You just want to get it hot enough to shape it without stretching it. Continued heat cycles weaken the material as Anthony pointed out, so try to do as little as possible. 

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On 1/26/2020 at 8:51 PM, carusoam said:

What would happen if you selected a lighter color for the glare shield?

I would be concerned about reflection from the glare shield onto the windshield. I have noticed if I am wearing a light colored shirt when flying I see it reflected in the windows. I have had some cars with gray/charcoal dash panels that didn't reflect so I suppose that should work. I would just be careful about how "light" a color is used.

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  • 5 months later...

Old thread but I thought I'd offer some pics.  I used scratch off and I'm very satisfied.  All of my windows had significant swirl marks and where rough to the touch.   The side windows came out fantastic.  The windshield, which I did first, is fantastic compared to before but under a really bright shop light I can still see minor swirl marks.     The challenge with the windshield is the most of the interior has to be done by hand.  And to get to the lower 4 inches the glare shield needs to be removed.   Knowing what I know now I should have stuck with step one a little longer.  I'm confident I could have made the front look brand new like the sides.    Photographing the difference is tough so your patience is appreciated.   I purposefully took the image of the windshield with the light in the center.  This highlights swirls that can't be seen unless the light and angle are just right.   Visitors walk in the hangar and make the "wow" comment!

Conclusion,  absolute perfect product for the side windows of my Mooney and for all windows on my Skyhawk.   Works great on the windscreen of my Bravo but takes a ton of elbow grease if you desire perfect execution because the power tool won't fit.  

 

First two pics are Pilot side- untreated for comparison

Pilot side front .jpg

Poilt side .jpg

door_1.jpg

door_2.jpg

IMG_3826.jpg

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47 minutes ago, slowflyin said:

Old thread but I thought I'd offer some pics.  I used scratch off and I'm very satisfied.  All of my windows had significant swirl marks and where rough to the touch.   The side windows came out fantastic.  The windshield, which I did first, is fantastic compared to before but under a really bright shop light I can still see minor swirl marks.     The challenge with the windshield is the most of the interior has to be done by hand.  And to get to the lower 4 inches the glare shield needs to be removed.   Knowing what I know now I should have stuck with step one a little longer.  I'm confident I could have made the front look brand new like the sides.    Photographing the difference is tough so your patience is appreciated.   I purposefully took the image of the windshield with the light in the center.  This highlights swirls that can't be seen unless the light and angle are just right.   Visitors walk in the hangar and make the "wow" comment!

Conclusion,  absolute perfect product for the side windows of my Mooney and for all windows on my Skyhawk.   Works great on the windscreen of my Bravo but takes a ton of elbow grease if you desire perfect execution because the power tool won't fit.  

That looks great. I used the same thing on my windshield with great results. The outside was easy, as you say the inside is difficult because you are working by hand.

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10 hours ago, slowflyin said:

Old thread but I thought I'd offer some pics.  I used scratch off and I'm very satisfied.  All of my windows had significant swirl marks and where rough to the touch.   The side windows came out fantastic.  The windshield, which I did first, is fantastic compared to before but under a really bright shop light I can still see minor swirl marks.     The challenge with the windshield is the most of the interior has to be done by hand.  And to get to the lower 4 inches the glare shield needs to be removed.   Knowing what I know now I should have stuck with step one a little longer.  I'm confident I could have made the front look brand new like the sides.    Photographing the difference is tough so your patience is appreciated.   I purposefully took the image of the windshield with the light in the center.  This highlights swirls that can't be seen unless the light and angle are just right.   Visitors walk in the hangar and make the "wow" comment!

Conclusion,  absolute perfect product for the side windows of my Mooney and for all windows on my Skyhawk.   Works great on the windscreen of my Bravo but takes a ton of elbow grease if you desire perfect execution because the power tool won't fit.  

 

First two pics are Pilot side- untreated for comparison

Pilot side front .jpg

Poilt side .jpg

door_1.jpg

door_2.jpg

IMG_3826.jpg

I want to do this!  What “power tool” exactly and what type of applicator was on it?

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1 hour ago, Ragsf15e said:

I want to do this!  What “power tool” exactly and what type of applicator was on it?

I just used a corded drill with the pads that come with the kit. I bought a buffer later and will do a second go over here in the future, but the improvement the first time was remarkable. My windshield wasn't bad, just some swirls when flying into the sun, and those are almost completely gone. 

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10 hours ago, Ragsf15e said:

I want to do this!  What “power tool” exactly and what type of applicator was on it?

The first time I used a corded drill and the kit components.  The second time I used a Dewault Rotary Polisher.   The polisher was easier to manage.  The instructions advise not to exceed 600 rpm so that's really the only limitation.

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something to consider...


If going too fast or too hard... expect the surface temperature to rise...

The softening point of acrylic is near the temperature of boing water...

Not too high when using power tools...

 

How do you keep from bumping the paint off... next to the windows?

Best regards,

-a-

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33 minutes ago, carusoam said:

something to consider...


If going too fast or too hard... expect the surface temperature to rise...

The softening point of acrylic is near the temperature of boing water...

Not too high when using power tools...

 

How do you keep from bumping the paint off... next to the windows?

Best regards,

-a-

Working around the edges is not to difficult with a four inch pad.  That being said, the areas where it got on the paint now have a great shine.   Painters tap would probably work well.  

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I polished my 65C to perfection. Until I tried looking outside from inside. I got carried away and wet sanded some spots. Well that was a terrible idea and created a warped windshield. I had to buy a new one piece and was very happy with it. Just don’t do what I did. Don’t try to spot correct. Polish the whole thing systematically. I used my paint correction techniques on a windshield. Bad idea.

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29 minutes ago, ryoder said:

I polished my 65C to perfection. Until I tried looking outside from inside. I got carried away and wet sanded some spots. Well that was a terrible idea and created a warped windshield. I had to buy a new one piece and was very happy with it. Just don’t do what I did. Don’t try to spot correct. Polish the whole thing systematically. I used my paint correction techniques on a windshield. Bad idea.

Thx for the advice.  Nothing like experience.   I couldn’t bring myself to wet sand.  Sorry it didn’t work out for you 

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50 minutes ago, slowflyin said:

Thx for the advice.  Nothing like experience.   I couldn’t bring myself to wet sand.  Sorry it didn’t work out for you 

I used a headlight restoration kit from the auto parts store. It worked out great. I got a new windshield out of it. Just cost me a little. 

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