Oil Change, what are you using

[jetdriven]

Here's the MSDS for Camguard. Definitely not >99% mineral oil. 

[steingar]

3 hours ago, RLCarter said:

Is it always a fighting match to remove?

It was the last time as well. Slow and steady pressure as best as I could wield it, and all I did was strip the nut on the end.  The biggest oil filter wrench I could find just dented the metal.  I don't even know how I would get a strap wrench in there, there's barely room for a wrench to try and turn the bolt.

I've been doing oil changes on bikes for years, and the filter on my old bike was in the exhaust cage. Still didn't have the trouble I am now. Changed the oil on my old Cherokee a couple times a year and never had trouble like this. But I'm two for two on the Mooney. Oh, I'll get the thing off.  Might not much resemble an oil filter when I'm done. And the next one will go on finger tight just like it's supposed to.

[steingar]

1 minute ago, bluehighwayflyer said:

Are you putting them on too tight?  It shouldn't be this difficult. 

 

I didn't put this one on, nor did I put on the last that gave me so much trouble. And yes, it should come off easily with a wrench.

[Skates97]

The last time I did mine it gave me some grief. A set of vice-grip pliers on the stripped out nut on the end of the filter did the trick for me.

[Bob_Belville]

2 hours ago, steingar said:

It was the last time as well. Slow and steady pressure as best as I could wield it, and all I did was strip the nut on the end.  The biggest oil filter wrench I could find just dented the metal.  I don't even know how I would get a strap wrench in there, there's barely room for a wrench to try and turn the bolt.

I've been doing oil changes on bikes for years, and the filter on my old bike was in the exhaust cage. Still didn't have the trouble I am now. Changed the oil on my old Cherokee a couple times a year and never had trouble like this. But I'm two for two on the Mooney. Oh, I'll get the thing off.  Might not much resemble an oil filter when I'm done. And the next one will go on finger tight just like it's supposed to.

Trust me, get a wrench like the one I sent a picture of above, make sure it fits the diameter of the filter, it will go on easier in tighter quarters than getting a socket or box wrench on the weak formed into the filter case nut. don't get one with a built in handle, it's too short and you need more leverage. And get a 15" x 3/8" breaker bar if you don't have one. You'll use it for other stuff, maybe spark plugs that someone over torqued.

https://www.zoro.com/gearwrench-oil-filter-wrench-hd-4-12-to-5-14-in-2321/i/G2524645/

 

[Tommy]

Do you guys always change the filter when you change the oil?

25 hours for a new filter seems excessive.

 

[Bob_Belville]

1 minute ago, Tommy said:

Do you guys always change the filter when you change the oil?

25 hours for a new filter seems excessive.

 

I do. But depending on calendar time I may go 35 hours.

[Hank]

13 minutes ago, Tommy said:

Do you guys always change the filter when you change the oil?

25 hours for a new filter seems excessive.

 

I change both every 50 hours. To me, 25 hour oil change interval is too frequent.

[Skates97]

Those of you that check the screen every oil change, do you know some secret voodoo magic that makes it easier? I've done two oil changes this year and about to do my third. Was going to check the screen the last time but after looking at the access decided I would wait until annual in December. 

[Bob_Belville]

14 minutes ago, Skates97 said:

Those of you that check the screen every oil change, do you know some secret voodoo magic that makes it easier? I've done two oil changes this year and about to do my third. Was going to check the screen the last time but after looking at the access decided I would wait until annual in December. 

Confession - it is mean to safety. so mean that I get Lynn's apprentice to do it. (Lynn has him do all of his so he's gotten good at it.) He's a tool junkie and has several long nose pliers, etc. He R&Rs it in about 10 minutes plus our cleaning and inspecting time.

[RLCarter]

14 minutes ago, Hank said:

I change both every 50 hours. To me, 25 hour oil change interval is too frequent.

I look at it like this, air cooled engine avg speed say 140 mph, 140 X 25 = 3500 miles, 50 would be 7k miles

16 minutes ago, Skates97 said:

Those of you that check the screen every oil change, do you know some secret voodoo magic that makes it easier? I've done two oil changes this year and about to do my third. Was going to check the screen the last time but after looking at the access decided I would wait until annual in December. 

I do the screen at annual, as far as Magic or VooDoo, post a link when you find it

[jetdriven]

Yep 7k miles for regular oil and 20-25K for synthetic in cars. I ran mine 33K in my Honda Accord and sent a sample to Blackstone. It came back serviceable. 

[RLCarter]

29 minutes ago, jetdriven said:

Yep 7k miles for regular oil and 20-25K for synthetic in cars. I ran mine 33K in my Honda Accord and sent a sample to Blackstone. It came back serviceable. 

Not going to happen with piss poor metallurgy, leaded fuel, 100+ year old ignition design and a few other things that holds us back

[ArtVandelay]

If I'm on a long cross country then I let it go to 50, but after 40 the oil is black, so I don't like the engine soaking in dirty oil. And if you don't change the filter how do you know the engine is making metal or not?

For comparing car engines to plane engines, car engines don't run close red line or continuously at 65% horsepower, our plane engines do.

 

[Hank]

1 hour ago, teejayevans said:

For comparing car engines to plane engines, car engines don't run close red line or continuously at 65% horsepower, our plane engines do.

Our red line is to keep the propellor subsonic, to reduce nkise and increase efficiency. Has nothing to do with the engine itself. My cars all ru  ~2500 at highway speed, and their redlines vary considerably.

[MyNameIsNobody]

On 9/23/2017 at 1:47 AM, KSMooniac said:

Phillips 20-50 + Camguard! You don't need the Elite, and Camguard does much better anyway.

Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk
 

+1 Fill to six quarts.  Same formula for 700+ Hours.

[jaylw314]

On ‎9‎/‎24‎/‎2017 at 7:38 PM, Bob_Belville said:

Trust me, get a wrench like the one I sent a picture of above, make sure it fits the diameter of the filter, it will go on easier in tighter quarters than getting a socket or box wrench on the weak formed into the filter case nut. don't get one with a built in handle, it's too short and you need more leverage. And get a 15" x 3/8" breaker bar if you don't have one. You'll use it for other stuff, maybe spark plugs that someone over torqued.

https://www.zoro.com/gearwrench-oil-filter-wrench-hd-4-12-to-5-14-in-2321/i/G2524645/

 

If there is the 1" nut on the back, I use this wrench.  I have so little space behind the filter that I could not fit a ratchet handle to a filter strap.  This takes much less horizontal space.  Have not had problems rounding off the nut.

Edited September 29, 2017 by jaylw314

[McMooney]

Welp, after the oil pressure/temp sender decided to come loose while in flight, I ended up changing my oil for the first time.  Can you say oil EVERYWHERE.

I wrote my first log entry , 7 quarts of aeroshell 15w50, champion filter, open and replaced cowling, checked for leaks. 8)

Can I say nothing about the job was enjoyable?  I'm just saying, the guy who designed aircraft engines is NOT my best friend.

 

oh well, guess you have to pay for the fun somehow.

 

[jetdriven]

Was it not safety wired? Supposed to be....

[McMooney]

safety wire on the filter not on the sender

[RLCarter]

Oil PSI should be a wet gauge and the Temp sender should be safety wired, or at least that's the way my E is.

[Cam]

Hey All, 

I'm just preparing for my first oil change in my M20G and was looking at filters etc.  Had a couple of questions though!

Firstly, I was looking around and it seems like the Champion (CH48110-1) should do the trick, what do others use? 

Secondly, I know that on a car you just do the filter finger tight or 3/4 turn after snug etc. HOWEVER I thought I should look up the correct torque value for a Lycoming O-360 and looked it up in a couple of places.

According to http://rvplane.com/pdf/XP360_OverhaulManual.pdf the correct torque value for a "Spin on Oil Filter" is 196-212 (in-lbs) (Yes when I first read that I assumed ft-lbs  and freaked but then I read the column heading   = 16.33 - 17.67 ft-lbs).

This is close to "The filter should then be turned with a torque wrench until a torque of 18-20 foot pounds is reached. The 20-foot pound maximum torque should not be exceeded." found at https://www.lycoming.com/content/tips-changing-your-spin-oil-filter. 

Both places recommend using  "a thin coating of Dow Corning Compound (DC-4)" on the gasket before installing. When I looked it up on Aircraft Spruce and Amazon, they both say it is a Dielectric compound. Presumably what the 'DC' stands for. Has anyone ever used it? Any advantages over just using clean oil? 

 

Cheers

Cam

 

 

[KSMooniac]

17 ft lbs and oil coating for me. Get the Tempest filter...they're building far better products than Champion these days. They have a new filter that doesn't need lube, but there are old ones still in circulation. (I bought an old version a couple weeks ago.)

 

Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

[Hank]

I use the Champion 48110-1, and dab some oil on the gasket. I bought an inexpensive torque wrench that lives in my hangar tool box, used just for oil filters and spark plugs.

[Bob_Belville]

Tempest has redesigned their filter. It is pre-lubed and using DC-4 is no longer recommended, in fact Tempest warns not to try to lube. The torque is clearly stated on the filter  16-18 Ft lb.