McMooney Posted September 23, 2017 Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 (edited) Welp, since i'm not flying this weekend, figure it's time to learn how to change the Oil. currently the plane uses phillips xc 20w50 but thinking of switching to elite 20w50 with the Lycoming additive. what type of oil are you guys using? also, what is the part number of the oil filter? Oh yeah, my plane 1974 M20E -- N7106v. Edited September 23, 2017 by McMooney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KSMooniac Posted September 23, 2017 Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 Phillips 20-50 + Camguard! You don't need the Elite, and Camguard does much better anyway.Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabremech Posted September 23, 2017 Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 Exxon Elite and no Camguard. Same oil that's been in it a long time. Not switching brands or viscosities until overhaul someday. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLCarter Posted September 23, 2017 Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 AeroShell W100 Plus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guitarmaster Posted September 23, 2017 Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 Oil? If you don't put oil in your plane, it can't leak. Something to think about.... Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtVandelay Posted September 23, 2017 Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 Depends on the time of year (temperatures I expect). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 23, 2017 Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 W-80 in winter, W-100 in summer, both with Av Blend changed 25-30 hours. Clarence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Belville Posted September 23, 2017 Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 Aeroshell W-100 with CamGuard year round. (Preheat engine in NC winter.) Target to change @ 25-35 hours, New spin on filter and check screen, sample to Blackstone Labs. (sample report attached) Tempest oil filter - AA48110-2 torque per filter instruction 16-18 ftlb. (New style spin on filters do not get DC4 lube.) N943RW-170908.pdf 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTK Posted September 23, 2017 Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 Aeroshell 15W50. Change q 25 - 35 hours or 4 months. Oil analysis at every oil change. NJ approx. annual temps, °F : Average high: 65 Average low: 45 Average temp: 55 Swings: 20 - 95. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danb Posted September 23, 2017 Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 Aeroshell 15W50 oil change every 25 hours. Camguard added, Send to Blackstone lab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTK Posted September 23, 2017 Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 4 hours ago, Guitarmaster said: Oil? If you don't put oil in your plane, it can't leak. Something to think about.... Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk Yup! Liquids and air can and do leak. This should logically apply to no fuel in the tanks and no air in the tires! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsxrpilot Posted September 23, 2017 Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 Aeroshell 100+ year round (winter only lasts about a week and a half here in Texas) Fly regularly enough not to need Camguard Blackstone analysis Repeat every 30 to 50 hours 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yetti Posted September 23, 2017 Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 Since you are in Texas... W100 is how we roll... up north other multis would make more sense Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mooneymite Posted September 23, 2017 Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 Aeroshell W100+ here in GA as well. My first engine went to 2400 hours (and was running well when replaced) on W100. Other oils may be better, but 2400 trouble free hours is a strong endorsement that W100 is "good enough"....at least in the Georgia environment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradp Posted September 23, 2017 Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 I use oil for my oil changes :-p I go with the Philips XC multiviscocity. My rationale is that maybe some oil will actually get to the valve guides before it’s warmed. Along with beetle juice, beetle juice, beetle juice (cam guard ) . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLCarter Posted September 23, 2017 Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 2 hours ago, gsxrpilot said: Aeroshell 100+ year round (winter only lasts about a week and a half here in Texas) I'm a little further south, same 10 days of winter just spread over 2 months, 3 days below 60's° is a "Hard Winter" 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyril Gibb Posted September 23, 2017 Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 3 hours ago, Bob_Belville said: N943RW-170908.pdf Just curious. Any idea why your oil samples consistently show calcium high and phosphorus low in comparison to the universal averages? Mine is the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenL757 Posted September 23, 2017 Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 8 hours ago, Sabremech said: Exxon Elite and no Camguard. Same oil that's been in it a long time. Not switching brands or viscosities until overhaul someday. Ditto. Fly the damn plane once a week, and you don't ever need Camguard. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetdriven Posted September 23, 2017 Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 There's been guys fly 2-3x per week and the cam still spalls. At least the stuff delays the onset of corrosion. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hank Posted September 23, 2017 Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 From the home page, click Downloads then Safety and Techniques for a PowerPoint of changing the oil in my C, which should be identical to your E. Simple, easy, no muss no fuss method that works with whatever you care to pour in. And the only rags / paper towels used are for your hands when you are finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Belville Posted September 23, 2017 Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 53 minutes ago, Cyril Gibb said: Just curious. Any idea why your oil samples consistently show calcium high and phosphorus low in comparison to the universal averages? Mine is the same. The high calcium is due to the CamGuard. (I just tried to find my email exchange with Blackstone on this matter but haven't.) Phosphorus usually comes from "common anti-wear additives in engine oil" per Blackstone's explanation sheet. Sine I use W100 and not W100plus I believe the additives in the Plus and other goosed up oils in their universe datbase include phosphorus. @kortopates? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Belville Posted September 23, 2017 Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 I went to a fine engineering school that offered degrees in chemistry, chemical engineering, and mechanical engineering. But I did not follow those paths, they all had afternoon labs that interfered with my golf game. (I studied math - no labs since that was pre-computer science.) So I do not know much about oil, oil additives, or metallurgy. 2 prop strikes occasioned 2 IRAN tear downs, less than 100 hours apart. Both inspections revealed deteriorating cam/lifters. (The first engine shop had recommended Phillips multi-grade.) I'm probably smart enough but I'm definitely not educated enough to know what goes on to cause premature cam/lifter failures. So reinforced by @jetdriven's much more informed disdain for what we're working with I've followed Busch's preference for single weight, non-synthetic oil. And having heard CamGuard's presentation a couple of times at Summit, I returned to Aeroshell W100 with CamGuard and believe that combo gives me the best chance is this lottery since I fly only about 75 hours per year and sometimes the plane goes several weeks without flying. (I send a sample to Blackstone at every oil change and personally examine the screen and cut and inspect the oil filter. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steingar Posted September 23, 2017 Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 Ahh, an oil thread. I'll be doing an oil change on mine tomorrow, and I'll be using whatever aviation oil is sitting in my hangar. What I haven't figured out is why I don't purchase the best synthetic automotive oil I can buy at the auto parts store. My thinking is that it'll probably be better than the most expensive aviation oil, which is probably cheap motor oil rebranded for airplanes. Any thoughts on why I'm so misguided? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsxrpilot Posted September 23, 2017 Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 4 minutes ago, steingar said: Ahh, an oil thread. I'll be doing an oil change on mine tomorrow, and I'll be using whatever aviation oil is sitting in my hangar. What I haven't figured out is why I don't purchase the best synthetic automotive oil I can buy at the auto parts store. My thinking is that it'll probably be better than the most expensive aviation oil, which is probably cheap motor oil rebranded for airplanes. Any thoughts on why I'm so misguided? Both Mike Busch, John Deakin and others have written on why synthetic oil isn't a good idea in our aircraft engines. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 23, 2017 Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 Mobil AV1 full synthetic oil was a disaster. Old fashioned straight weight oil seems to work for most. Fly regularly and change oil often. Clarence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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