shortfinal Posted June 6, 2017 Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 I'm planning on checking out a '77 201 in the next week or two and was wondering what to look out for, generally speaking. I've done a couple searches for similar threads and know to look for some key things like leaking fuel tanks, misaligned spinners (sagging engine mounts), and cracked gear donuts. The airplane also has a 430W and ancient Pathfinder autopilot, so I'll be sure to play with those as well. Anything else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marauder Posted June 7, 2017 Report Share Posted June 7, 2017 I'm planning on checking out a '77 201 in the next week or two and was wondering what to look out for, generally speaking. I've done a couple searches for similar threads and know to look for some key things like leaking fuel tanks, misaligned spinners (sagging engine mounts), and cracked gear donuts. The airplane also has a 430W and ancient Pathfinder autopilot, so I'll be sure to play with those as well. Anything else? You missed the big one; corrosion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbridges Posted June 7, 2017 Report Share Posted June 7, 2017 44 minutes ago, Marauder said: You missed the big one; corrosion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro true. corrosion in the right places can kill a plane about as fast as anything. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortfinal Posted June 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2017 Thank you - corrosion will be at the top of the list. Anything else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carusoam Posted June 7, 2017 Report Share Posted June 7, 2017 (edited) Depends on how much you have to risk... 1) Often getting the most Mooney experienced mechanic to do a pre-purchase inspection makes a lot of sense. Good for Mooney's that cost as much as your house... cost similar to an annual. 2) if that is too expensive, a good local mechanic can do the job. Have him open and inspect every square inch of the plane. 3) If tight on money, check the compressions, and inspect as much as you can. For about 1AMU a local mechanic can cover a lot of territory. 4) Expensive failures: (applies to all planes, not just Mooneys...) tank leaks airframe corrosion, spars Engine corrosion, cams All moving parts wear, some can be expensive to replace How does that sound? Going the cheap route can give you some surprises. Buying a 50 year old plane has the risk that everything is worn. So, Inspect everything... keep reading everything. There is a 100hr maintenance list that is probably posted around here. Maintenance manuals have all the steps to be performed for annual inspections. How mechanically inclined are you? Do you know what you are seeing when you look at this stuff? Best regards, -a- Edited June 7, 2017 by carusoam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortfinal Posted June 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2017 Thanks for your reply. I'm glad to see that none of the items you mentioned are a surprise. Not to say they wouldn't be an unpleasant surprise should I need to fix them, but I'm glad they aren't unfamiliar issues. I would consider myself fairly mechanically inclined, and am an electrical engineer by trade, but seeing how much knowledge there is among the members here it seems silly not to ask for some advice. And definitely agreed about having a proper PPI done before purchasing. I was wondering more about things I should be looking for before bringing it to a mechanic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carusoam Posted June 7, 2017 Report Share Posted June 7, 2017 The financial aspect of risk taking... 1) the best thing available to us as used machine buyer is to get the best quality PPI available. 2) know that there is no guarantee that something can still escape detection. This is a tough pill to swallow. 3) The most competent places to find the most competent mechanics for a PPI are called MSCs. 4) Some MSCs are better than others. 5) Don Maxwell and company is/are the highest regarded for the job... 6) use a mechanic that is independent of the maintenance that has been previously performed. 7) There are some really good Mooney mechanics with a lifetime of experience that can be hired. My background... First Mooney cost as much as much as a new car. I used the local mechanic. Looking back on my experience I got pretty lucky. I didn't get bit by the things that did not get inspected... My second Mooney costs as much as a house. The Don Maxwell PPI was extended into a full annual. Years later, I am still comfortable with that approach. My local MSC has a collection of parts he has taken out of various planes for replacement. They work on all types of planes as well. It is amazing what corroded Piper parts look like. (Mandatory dig on the other guys... ) Best regards, -a- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortfinal Posted June 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2017 Makes sense to me. I'll see if I can track down an MSC near me (Toronto). On the topic of corrosion, any particular places I should poke around with a flashlight during the initial look? I'll try to stick my head wherever I can fit it (I think there's a joke in there...), but any common hotspots to cover? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carusoam Posted June 7, 2017 Report Share Posted June 7, 2017 (edited) Under the rug is a big spar cap location. Not too hard to find. Often sees the worst treatment under the feet of some individuals... Relistically, that is just one of a thousand places to be inspected... inspection panel after inspection panel for the actual inspection. There is a large access panel on the pilot side that can be opened with a screwdriver, 1/4 turn fasteners... as far as good mechanics in Toronto go... I only know of one. He gives me a hard time about my geography knowledge. I recommend Clarence @M20Doc but I'm not fully sure of where his shop is. Either way, you now know how to contact him. And he is aware that I mentioned him... Somebody else can probably fill in some better details... PP thoughts only, I have only bought two planes. Best regards, -a- Edited June 7, 2017 by carusoam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rmag Posted June 7, 2017 Report Share Posted June 7, 2017 http://www.mooneypilots.com/mapalog/M20J_Inspection.htm 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 7, 2017 Report Share Posted June 7, 2017 7 hours ago, shortfinal said: Makes sense to me. I'll see if I can track down an MSC near me (Toronto). On the topic of corrosion, any particular places I should poke around with a flashlight during the initial look? I'll try to stick my head wherever I can fit it (I think there's a joke in there...), but any common hotspots to cover? If you're in Toronto, I'm 30 miles west in Kitchener @CYKF. Clarence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Gravel Posted June 7, 2017 Report Share Posted June 7, 2017 7 hours ago, carusoam said: Under the rug is a big spar cap location. Not too hard to find. Often sees the worst treatment under the feet of some individuals... Relistically, that is just one of a thousand places to be inspected... inspection panel after inspection panel for the actual inspection. There is a large access panel on the pilot side that can be opened with a screwdriver, 1/4 turn fasteners... as far as good mechanics in Toronto go... I only know of one. He gives me a hard time about my geography knowledge. I recommend Clarence @M20Doc but I'm not fully sure of where his shop is. Either way, you now know how to contact him. And he is aware that I mentioned him... Somebody else can probably fill in some better details... PP thoughts only, I have only bought two planes. Best regards, -a- +1 for Clarence, but I am biased. He saved me a #$^%$ load of money when he did my PPI 13 years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyril Gibb Posted June 7, 2017 Report Share Posted June 7, 2017 1 hour ago, Ned Gravel said: +1 for Clarence, but I am biased. He saved me a #$^%$ load of money when he did my PPI 13 years ago. +1 again... me too ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob - S50 Posted June 7, 2017 Report Share Posted June 7, 2017 Not to be a killjoy, but we passed on the '77 models because we didn't like the placement of the fuel selector and we preferred vernier controls over airline levers. May not matter to you, but something to consider. Both of those items changed with the '78 model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortfinal Posted June 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2017 Thanks guys. Clarence, I'll shoot you a PM. Bob, I'm impartial between the levers versus knobs, but thanks for the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcastor Posted June 8, 2017 Report Share Posted June 8, 2017 Be sure to check the nose gear truss, if the nose gear is forced to turn too tightly with a tug, the tubular structure can be damaged. LASAR has an STC'd truss with stops but someone actually broke the stops off mine and then damaged the truss. You can see the area Im talking about if you use the tow bar and move it to one side or another just until it stops. Cost to repair is about $750 plus labor and freight. Dave C 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yetti Posted June 8, 2017 Report Share Posted June 8, 2017 There are 2-3 recent threads that will answer your questions and give you pretty good lists. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yetti Posted June 8, 2017 Report Share Posted June 8, 2017 put this into google site: mooneyspace.com purchase Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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