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Oil change by owner


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I fly my 231 a lot for business (about 300 hours per year), so l need a lot of oil and filter changes in a year.  Finding a shop that can do it on my schedule is a PIA. I would like to do my own oil and filter changes. Is there a good source of detailed info on how to properly do an oil and filter change? Also, what tools are needed, and where can they be obtained? I have the LB engine.

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I could probably create a list, but it would probably be best to attend an oil change with your A&P and watch the first time. Second best would be to find someone in your area to show you the first time. 

Come to Dallas and I will help you learn how.

Changing it is not hard. Changing it without a big mess is difficult. Changing it with no mess is virtually impossible.

Or PM me.

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4 minutes ago, RLCarter said:

My suggestion would be do it under the supervision of an A&P untill you feel comfortable on your own

+1

I've done hundreds of oil changes on all kinds of cars, trucks, SUV's, outboards, lawn mowers, etc. It is different enough from those things that it warrants a hands on "lesson".

The convenience of doing them on your timetable is well worth it. My mechanic actually encouraged me to do mine.

 

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The trickiest parts are usually:

  • Figuring out how to get the old oil from the drain plug to your bucket (a quick drain and hose makes his trivial).
  • Figuring out how to get the oil filter off without getting oil everywhere while spinning it off (I tape a plastic shopping back under and around the oil filter to catch the dripping oil, and I use a 1" ratcheting box wrench to loosen the oil filter)
  • Figuring out how to safety wire the new oil filter in tight quarters (lots of puncture wounds and cursing)

I figure three oil changes a year, I do two and one more at annual.

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I do my own and agree with the advice that you can and should do it yourself but that you would do well to work with and A&P the first time or 2.

You can buy oil from several sources including Aircraft Spruce. Ask Ms. Google, the best price vendor seems to change from time to time. At the pace you're flying you'll be doing a change every 6 weeks or so and will want to buy 2 or 3 cases at a time since freight is a real factor on a case of oil. You'll want to buy filters by the case.

There are a few one time items to get:

You should have a torque wrench and possible a band type filter wrench. And some Dow DC-4 Compound for the filter gasket. And safety wire (.032?) and pliers. A pan to drain the oil into is useful and you'll need to make arrangements with your A&P shop or elsewhere to dispose of your used oil.

There are a few MS threads that offer suggestions on avoiding spilling when removing the filter.  

 

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14 minutes ago, Bob_Belville said:

 

You should have a torque wrench and possible a band type filter wrench. And some Dow DC-4 Compound for the filter gasket. And safety wire (.032?) and pliers. A pan to drain the oil into is useful and you'll need to make arrangements with your A&P shop or elsewhere to dispose of your used oil.

There are a few MS threads that offer suggestions on avoiding spilling when removing the filter.  

 

If you have a "quick drain" valve and a hose, you can drain directly into empty milk jugs. All the car service places (Auto Zone, Pep Boys) will take your old oil (at least in Texas they do).

On a 231, a band type filter wrench doesn't work well. Much better a socket wrench and 6 or 8 inch extension.

Absolutely safety wire, and safety wire twister. 

A one gallon zip lock plastic bag slipped over the filter after you have loosened it, will contain most of the spilling oil, but finding room to spin the bag with the filter is a real problem. And then you have to maneuver the "filter in a bag" upside down and sideways to get it past the cowl flap rods. 

I devised an aluminum drain trough so you can run the spilling oil down to an open area, but it necessitates a drain pan to catch it, and the end result is not a lot better.

Good luck the first few times.

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@DonMuncy , this is the type (10 qt) drain pan I use. ~$8 and big enough to hold the whole dump and to not spill when carrying.

http://www.kmart.com/hopkins-oil-drain-pan-10qt/p-9990000082431911P?sid=KDx01192011x000001&gclid=CjwKEAjwgtTJBRDRmd6ZtLrGyxwSJAA7Fy-hpIC5V8BUyzxoo6w8darfb7pWe3NPn70bkJ-vqnspehoC1Szw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

And this is the type HD filter wrench I found necessary to use when filter is stuck. Steady pressure with a long 3/8" breaker bar.

https://www.zoro.com/otc-wrench-for-oil-filter-hd-4-2132-4556/i/G5788286/?gclid=CjwKEAjwgtTJBRDRmd6ZtLrGyxwSJAA7Fy-h93QBVKkS9twy-HKR7OA4dVIbkAnQJwHNHKT6vEQzuBoCInHw_wcB

 

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Just now, Bob_Belville said:

@DonMuncy , this is the type (10 qt) drain pan I use. ~$8 and big enough to hold the whole dump and to not spill when carrying.

http://www.kmart.com/hopkins-oil-drain-pan-10qt/p-9990000082431911P?sid=KDx01192011x000001&gclid=CjwKEAjwgtTJBRDRmd6ZtLrGyxwSJAA7Fy-hpIC5V8BUyzxoo6w8darfb7pWe3NPn70bkJ-vqnspehoC1Szw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

And this is the type HD filter wrench I found necessary to use when filter is stuck. Steady pressure with a long 3/8" breaker bar.

https://www.zoro.com/otc-wrench-for-oil-filter-hd-4-2132-4556/i/G5788286/?gclid=CjwKEAjwgtTJBRDRmd6ZtLrGyxwSJAA7Fy-h93QBVKkS9twy-HKR7OA4dVIbkAnQJwHNHKT6vEQzuBoCInHw_wcB

 

My pan is almost identical. I really hate cleaning it up and I really hate leaving it not cleaned up.

I see your point about the wrench. I was thinking of the one with a handle rather than the socket adaptor. I think the socket directly to the bottom of the filter is best. On the Continental, the filter is vertical, and the bottom is readily accessible.

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Just now, DonMuncy said:

My pan is almost identical. I really hate cleaning it up and I really hate leaving it not cleaned up.

I see your point about the wrench. I was thinking of the one with a handle rather than the socket adaptor. I think the socket directly to the bottom of the filter is best. On the Continental, the filter is vertical, and the bottom is readily accessible.

Don, it's possible that the horizontal filter on my IO360 Lycoming is tougher to keep a socket squarely on the integrated rounded corner nut but I am never able to break the filter use before bending the filter and rapping a couple of knuckles. I've quit trying and go right to the band wrench which works like a charm.

AGL Aviation Services allows me to dump my drain pan into their 55 gallon waster oil drums so I don't have to take it far or do much cleanup.

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Just now, Bob_Belville said:

Don, it's possible that the horizontal filter on my IO360 Lycoming is tougher to keep a socket squarely on the integrated rounded corner nut but I am never able to break the filter use before bending the filter and rapping a couple of knuckles. I've quit trying and go right to the band wrench which works like a charm.

AGL Aviation Services allows me to dump my drain pan into their 55 gallon waster oil drums so I don't have to take it far or do much cleanup.

Strangely enough, I have never had a filter bend. Maybe you (or your A&P) put them on a lot tighter than I do.

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Changed mine today hopefully ok until July annual, luckily no spills, if a lowly non proficient mechanically deficient accountant can change the oil the others can. I'm actually serious.

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Just now, DonMuncy said:

Strangely enough, I have never had a filter bend. Maybe you (or your A&P) put them on a lot tighter than I do.

Typical Texan - it must be my fault! :rolleyes:

I use a torque wrench that I calibrate from time to time. I use DC-4 on the seal. And I use Tempest filters.

Maybe you don't get them tight enough. <grin>

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Just now, Bob_Belville said:

Typical Texan - it must be my fault! :rolleyes:

I use a torque wrench that I calibrate from time to time. I use DC-4 on the seal. And I use Tempest filters.

Maybe you don't get them tight enough. <grin>

Any possibility Tempest filters aren't as stout as Champions.

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Just now, Danb said:

Hey Bob I was going to buy the tempest this time but don't know the pros and cons? 

Cheaper, fully welded hex on end, magnet inside and the edge of the filter cartridge inside won't slice your hand open when cutting out the filter element.  Also they don't rust as easily inside on the shelf.  They also come in a bag instead of simply sitting in a box collecting dust which gets pumped into your engine. 

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Hey Bob I was going to buy the tempest this time but don't know the pros and cons? 


Dan - I switched from Champions to Tempests a couple of years ago. I like the built in magnet to catch metal fines.



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Just now, Danb said:

Hey Bob I was going to buy the tempest this time but don't know the pros and cons? 

Dan, I haven't used a Champion in many years and do not know if there are any significant differences. Tempest does have a magnet in the end of the filter that collect ferrous particles... and Tempest are cheaper.

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Just now, Marauder said:

Dan - I switched from Champions to Tempests a couple of years ago. I like the built in magnet to catch metal fines.

 

Blah blah blah. You just like that they're cheaper! Mooney pilots...

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With the bad reputation Champion has gotten over the spark plugs, I can see why someone may switch to Tempest. I have always used Champions; because I have always used Champions. (Plus the fact that back during my sports car racing days, Champion used to give me free spark plugs. Sort of a loyalty/pay-back thing)  Up until the last year or so, I used their spark plugs too.

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2 minutes ago, jetdriven said:

Harbor freight sells a large opening short crescent wrench that takes that filter off great. Otherwise a 1" short box end wrench will. 

I have a hangar full of stuff from HF including box and open end wrenches is about 4 lengths but I had trouble crushing Tempest filters until I got the band wrench.

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