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Does anyone other than safe flight overhaul stall switches?


peevee

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Here's what safe flight wants for overhaul 

 

Good Morning,

 

Per your request, I have enclosed the following price information

 

C-46001 – Lift Detector

Inspection/Bench Test                                                                  $   274.00

Overhaul (without Dual Certification FAA/EASA)             $1,198.00

Overhaul (with Dual Certification FAA/EASA)                    $1,248.00

 

Repair/Overhaul cost includes cost of Inspection/Bench Test.

 

 

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2 minutes ago, Sabremech said:

I purchased one off of EBay for $75 and did a repair myself.

No such luck finding one that cheap, there's a couple around but look rough and want 400 bucks, and not knowing the seller who knows what you get. That might be what I have to do though, if cleaning doesn't work that's my fastest and cheapest option.

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30 minutes ago, Herlihy Brother said:

I paid $500 for the new switch from mooney a few years back, then found digikey has it for $4...

 

weird, you must have a different switch based on that honeywell microswitch and your write up ours don't go together the same way. Here's mine taken apart.

Compared to the switch you used, I don't see a way to mount it in the metal housing that rivets to the face plate and the back of mine is solid, no room for those terminals or a way to attach the switch arm. I'm guessing somewhere along the way mooney changed what they used? No clue but the more I dig, the more confused I get.

IMG_20170510_163942.jpg

IMG_20170510_163208.jpg

IMG_20170510_180842.jpg

11943819.jpg

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2 minutes ago, Dream to fly said:

can someone explain how that is working mechanically?.  I realize when it closes it completes a circuit.  What is closing it?  Have you looked at Mouser Electronics,  Or at Fry Electronics? 

as the air catches the stall tab it moves up, the pivot is ahead of the button on the miroswitch. when the arm moves up, the tail moves down, pressing the button, closing the circuit. Note I lied and arm is on correctly.

switch.jpg

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Just now, peevee said:

as the air catches the stall tab it moves up, the pivot is ahead of the button on the miroswitch. when the arm moves up, the tail moves down, pressing the button, closing the circuit. Note I have the arm upside down.

switch.jpg

Ok.  So the switch sits inside that cover?

 

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Mouser has switches that can be N.O. or N.C.  depending on arm movement.  there are over 1800 choices according to their filter search.  Pretty sure Mooney or Safe Flight is not making the switch. They are making the housing the switch lives in. 

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As I understand, the Honeywell switch in the SafeFlight housing is custom made for SafeFlight.  A number of people have looked and tried to find in a drop in alternate, but I've yet to hear of someone who found one.  The one PeeVee shows that looks different was a Mooney design for a number of years.  Don't know the reason, but it seems to be more maintenance friendly.  Don't know if it is a drop in replacement.  Call around to the salvage yards.  There are a few reasonably priced ones that pop up if you have time to shop. 

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11 minutes ago, takair said:

As I understand, the Honeywell switch in the SafeFlight housing is custom made for SafeFlight.  A number of people have looked and tried to find in a drop in alternate, but I've yet to hear of someone who found one.  The one PeeVee shows that looks different was a Mooney design for a number of years.  Don't know the reason, but it seems to be more maintenance friendly.  Don't know if it is a drop in replacement.  Call around to the salvage yards.  There are a few reasonably priced ones that pop up if you have time to shop. 

I think you're right.

I think the design differences are feeding my confusion

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1 hour ago, peevee said:

you guys with the "newer style" that used that honeywell, does your assembly look like this?

this is listed as a retrofit kit for the one I have, it might be a good buy.

 

new stall.jpg

This is the Mooney replacement for the Safe Flight switch.  It has a much cheaper Micro switch.

Clarence

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3 minutes ago, M20Doc said:

This is the Mooney replacement for the Safe Flight switch.  It has a much cheaper Micro switch.

Clarence

Does it bolt right up?

It seems superior and it's the same cost and as you say if I can change the switch maybe it's the way to go?

 

Our face plate the screws you back off to adjust the switch are on opposing corners, it appears that one they're side by side.

 

I'm nervous to buy it because it's so different. Even the tab is shaped differently. And the ad says it came off a c model

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Just now, M20Doc said:

I've installed one in an 84 J it was straight forward.  I may still have the kit instructions around.

Clarence

ok! Thanks!

If it was your plane which would you put in, the retrofit or a used safe flight?

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2 minutes ago, peevee said:

ok! Thanks!

If it was your plane which would you put in, the retrofit or a used safe flight?

You already own a used one, why buy another?  The retro fit is fine as long as you don't need a heated or decide version, then you're stuck with Safe Flight.

Clarence

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Just now, M20Doc said:

You already own a used one, why buy another?  The retro fit is fine as long as you don't need a heated or decide version, then you're stuck with Safe Flight.

Clarence

I see your point. I'll grab the retrofit design. Thanks for the input. I like having a serviceable unit.

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55 minutes ago, Dream to fly said:

Mouser has switches that can be N.O. or N.C.  depending on arm movement.  there are over 1800 choices according to their filter search.  Pretty sure Mooney or Safe Flight is not making the switch. They are making the housing the switch lives in. 

There is a Honeywell Microswitch switch available to make this work but requires salvaging the actuator arm from the old switch as it has the sail/paddle that the wind hits.  I looked at this and there is a reverse acting, low pressure microswitch that can be modified to work, but may require drilling a new pivot hole, adjusting the plunger length, etc as well as transplanting the arm.

Ultimately I got my old switch operation so didn't need to complete this minor surgery. If I did go this route I would be 'calibrating' the activation pressure and angle of the switch arm as best as possible to match the existing, which is easier said than done. I am a little apprehensive about bodging a safety item like this.

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