INA201 Posted April 25, 2017 Report Share Posted April 25, 2017 I Was wondering if anyone had an idea of the best glue to bond the interior vinyl trim pieces to the plastic. My thoughts are that a bond that can be pulled back apart would be ideal but I have no experience with this. Here are some useful links for plastic repair. The first link is what got my attention and inspired me to attempt the seeming futile effort of repairing all the cracked up beat up plastic. I used a combination of the information in these articles to make it all work but primarily used the items below to do all the plastic interior. The bottom pic was my worst piece so just wanted to show the before and after. Sand all areas with a coarse grit on backside of repairs to help the Plastifix bond. I was really satisfied with the repairs. https://www.polyvance.com/pfxinstrumentpanel.php http://www.airmod.com/articles/PDF/cpajul07.pdf http://www.airmod.com/articles/PDF/cpaaug07.pdf http://www.airmod.com/articles/PDF/cpasep07.pdf http://www.airmod.com/articles/PDF/cpanov07.pdf This is what I used. 1. Dremel tool 2. Plastifix for repairing holes. 3. 3m fiberglass repair tape in conjunction with plastifix to reinforce back of cracks and missing chunks. 4. https://www.polyvance.com/Hardset-Filler-1/2020-T/ 5. SEM color coat "Warm Grey", and "Super White." 6. 80, 100, 240, 320 grit sandpaper 7. Model airplane iron 8. Hair dryer 9. Fantastic original cleaner not the kind with bleach. I have a pirep for painting inside the plane namely the vents and the rear hatrack area. These pieces were difficult to remove so I taped it off and painted them in place. Some of you may know this trick but I used my shop vacuum very close to where I was painting(8" or so) to quickly suck out all of the fumes and dust that is created when spray painting. It works extremely well and no residue was anywhere inside the plane after painting as well as most of the fumes removed while the paint flashed off. I did and do recommend using a rated mask as well just in case for safety. I also had the exhaust from the vacuum aimed outside of the hanger. Thanks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yetti Posted April 25, 2017 Report Share Posted April 25, 2017 Mooney factory used Contact cement. The good fun smelling stuff. My trim pieces are wrapped in leather. I just painted them with rustoelum and they are holding up pretty well. Don't get the contact cement on your paint. I will take it right off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradp Posted April 25, 2017 Report Share Posted April 25, 2017 I just did this project and used 3M dual lock something or other. It comes in various weights and "clicks" into place. I've had it in place for a couple of months now and it's holding up well. I wanted something that I remove and replace the trim pieces with and get rid of those little metal anchors that rip into the plastic. see link below: Also- what was your process for the plastic repair? Came out very nicely. I would have thought that the before pic was a goner. I guess there won't be any ping pong for a bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rmag Posted April 25, 2017 Report Share Posted April 25, 2017 Our interior shop used 3m 1357 glue on mine. It's strong, but not too rediculous to remove if you have to. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetdriven Posted April 25, 2017 Report Share Posted April 25, 2017 Mostly I've seen upholstery shops spray 3M top and trim adhesive to stick fabrics and leather/vinyl to panels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Logsdon Posted April 25, 2017 Report Share Posted April 25, 2017 (edited) On most shop vacs the vacuum air is circulated thru the motor after passing thru the filter, the motor has a set of brushes that are producing a spark. This means you are mixing flamable fumes with an ignition spark, Your vacuum might explode !!! Edited April 25, 2017 by Dale Logsdon 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
INA201 Posted April 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2017 No ping pong for now. I edited the first post to include articles and items that we used to make the repairs. Dale, I didn't think about the explosion potential. Who knows there may have been a little ignition going on in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milotron Posted April 25, 2017 Report Share Posted April 25, 2017 Contact cement is especially bad. I used to be a floor installer and using contact cement in large quantities; I recall the fumes igniting off of hot light bulbs at the top of stair wells, making little blue balls of fire. INA201, those are some great links for some products I was not aware of. This may be the ticket for my panels as the cracks are minor, but annoying. Might be within my capabilities until I can afford a full aerocomfort installation. I was planning on using velcro type fasteners to put my trim panels and arm rests back in place instead of the screws. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yetti Posted April 25, 2017 Report Share Posted April 25, 2017 I taped off the hat rack also and painted with Rustoleum Satin Nickle. For overspray I went with a shower curtain from wally world taped off also. The two rear side panels I could not figure out how to remove due to the seat recline lever. So taped off and sprayed them also. A fan though the front door with the hatch open. Hold breath till mist had dissipated. The contact cement is not like a whole floor worth. Just the backing of 8 small pieces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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