Supertow 1 Loose Wire. What am I Missing Here?

[29-0363]

My Supertow 1 has always worked perfectly since I got it in 2008.  I know the electric start works fine but the battery is always flat, so I've only ever used the pull start and if not the first pull, it's away on the second.  I recently went to start it up and it felt like the pull start cord had jammed, so I fiddled around a bit, yanked it a lot harder and it seemed to free up.  Now it refuses to start.  I've used a jumper supply to the electric start and turns over freely and puffing a little bit of blue smoke out the exhaust but it won't run.  I've replaced the spark plug, checked the carburettor, cleaned the bowl and metering needle but it still refuses.  The engine has now been removed and is in a repair shop, and I suspect somehow the timing is the issue, but they'll tell me soon enough.   

My questions to anyone with a Supertow 1,

(1) has anyone had a similar problem and if so, what was the fix and,

(2) what is the purpose of the cable and white connector (see image), and where does it belong?  There's no mating part that I can see. There's a related cable that's connected to the insulated mounting plate.  I think it's always been loose as in the image.

Edited April 14, 2017 by 29-0363

[carusoam]

Whatever that white connector is has a heat stain on it from whatever hot hole it used to sit in.

That isn't somehow the connector to the spark plug is it?

Just guessing,

-a-

Edited April 14, 2017 by carusoam

[29-0363]

Thanks Carusoam.

Because there's another end to the wire on an insulated connection (see image) I guess it could be related to grounding the spark plug at idle-shut-off, but I can't find where it belongs.  Maybe something has fallen off?

[carusoam]

Checking their website wasn't very helpful either.  No high def pictures to work with....

http://www.powertow.com/SuperTow-I_p_23.html

Good luck,

-a-

[29-0363]

I checked the website too.  I did notice the price has increased by 47% since 2008 however.

[PTK]

8 hours ago, 29-0363 said:

My Supertow 1 has always worked perfectly since I got it in 2008.  I know the electric start works fine but the battery is always flat, so I've only ever used the pull start and if not the first pull, it's away on the second.  I recently went to start it up and it felt like the pull start cord had jammed, so I fiddled around a bit, yanked it a lot harder and it seemed to free up.  Now it refuses to start.  I've used a jumper supply to the electric start and turns over freely and puffing a little bit of blue smoke out the exhaust but it won't run.  I've replaced the spark plug, checked the carburettor, cleaned the bowl and metering needle but it still refuses.  The engine has now been removed and is in a repair shop, and I suspect somehow the timing is the issue, but they'll tell me soon enough.   

My questions to anyone with a Supertow 1,

(1) has anyone had a similar problem and if so, what was the fix and,

(2) what is the purpose of the cable and white connector (see image), and where does it belong?  There's no mating part that I can see. There's a related cable that's connected to the insulated mounting plate.  I think it's always been loose as in the image.

Check wiring integrity to fuel solenoid. That failed connector most likely goes to fuel solenoid on carburetor. Replace the fuel solenoid if need to.  If solenoid is disconnected or bad it will not get gas and will not run. It may run for a few seconds when primed until the gas in the bowl runs out and then it will die. That's consistent with what you describe.

[Fritz Kaiser]

Hello 29-0363,

is it possible that you miss a fuse?

just a stupid idea  ;-)

Fritz

[Fritz Kaiser]

here comparable fuse

[N201MKTurbo]

That appears to be a B&S throttle assembly. The triangle poking through the sheet metal is the shut off switch (same as our P leads). On a B&S magneto grounding that lead will turn off the engine. If that wire is also hooked to the place it would be a remote engine cut off. Leaving it open would allow the engine to run.

have you traced the wire to see where it goes?

did you remove the flywheel?

 

[carusoam]

Great responses!

Regarding the fuel solenoid for small carb'd engines...

My tug got one. It came with an engine swap. It requires a voltage switch to open the fuel valve.

Good news...

you can hear it when you turn it on.  It clicks.  No click - no fuel...

Bad news...  forgetting to turn the switch off kills the battery...

More to add to the 'put the plane away - checklist’

Best regards, 

-a-

[thinwing]

5 hours ago, N201MKTurbo said:

That appears to be a B&S throttle assembly. The triangle poking through the sheet metal is the shut off switch (same as our P leads). On a B&S magneto grounding that lead will turn off the engine. If that wire is also hooked to the place it would be a remote engine cut off. Leaving it open would allow the engine to run.

have you traced the wire to see where it goes?

did you remove the flywheel?

 

Good eye!...first is this a Briggs and Stratton?I just installed a new 6 hp in my tug and my engine has the same wiring..first...that unconnected wire with the fuse holder is from the charging coil ..it supplies power to the battery and uses a simple diode to rectify the ac impulse from the coil to D.C.The second wire that 201mk IDed is to short out magneto coil.This could be your problem...typically in a lawn mower install this wire goes to micro switch on the throttle/carb plate...if it is shorted..no spark...ps..rather than repair my engine I bought a new ,sitting on the shelf,elec start 6 hp for less than 100 bucks from jacks small engines.Than I made up a lipo battery /starter solonoid /switch and mounted in a clear pelican case.

[Yetti]

Engine from Harbor Freight for $90.00   Got a nice Powertug that had a broken motor. Your engine should not puff smoke.  May have fried it running it on 100LL

Edited April 14, 2017 by Yetti

[N201MKTurbo]

33 minutes ago, Yetti said:

Engine from Harbor Freight for $90.00   Got a nice Powertug that had a broken motor. Your engine should not puff smoke.  May have fried it running it on 100LL

Can't imagine how something as fine as 100LL could ever harm a lawnmower engine.

[thinwing]

My power 35 came with a 3 hp tecumsiah ..it saw 15 years of hard use lugging a Baron arround.Frame needed welding a few times so I upgraded to power 40 kit and transferred parts over to new tow.Old moter than a few years later became so difficult to start !New moter just happened to be electric start ,so I came up with the 3 cell 5000 mah lipo battery and solonoid.The lipo is rated for 40 c so is capable of 200 amp draw!Photo shows whole setup...