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Any Way to get more Ventilation?


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It was 71 degrees with high humidity while I was doing pattern work the last few days and it was hot in the cockpit.  My '63 M20C just would not flow much air through the vents into the cockpit.  The roof vent was wide open and clear as were the small twist and swivel airliner type ports above.  Any ideas how to flow more air?  If I can't improve airflow, the Texas weather is going to make for a really sweaty cockpit in another month or so.

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Lucky for you, you won't be doing pattern work this summer.   Learn to start the big fan up front fast and the outstanding climb to altitude will help cool things off.   I pop the door on the runway after reducing mixture.

The F model has a cabin vent, the overhead vent, and then a vent down by the leg.  Some people have put one of those eyeball vents on the passenger side.And the window vent.   Some people have put a window vent on the copilot door window.

You can build one of these for not too much

 

20150803_164931.jpg

Edited by Yetti
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The plane is at Brenham texas.  We are between Brenham and Houston.  At least Mrs. Yetti is.  I have been home on United/SWA and Hilton for the last several weeks.  I am becoming way too familer with the Hilton product line.

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Yeah, I almost made diamond with Hilton  and then wife threatened to shoot me if I didn't get off the road (she was in med school with 3 kids at the time so her intensity level was kinda high, so I had to get a mostly non travel job for while). 

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If you haven't already, go to your local auto parts store and get static cling window tint.    You can cut to shape and can be removed in the winter or night.   It's about $10 for a giant roll.   The stuff I got is here and makes a HUGE difference.   

https://www.gilafilms.com/for-auto/static-cling-tint

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4 minutes ago, Browncbr1 said:

If you haven't already, go to your local auto parts store and get static cling window tint.    You can cut to shape and can be removed in the winter or night.   It's about $10 for a giant roll.   The stuff I got is here and makes a HUGE difference.   

https://www.gilafilms.com/for-auto/static-cling-tint

What do you do with it when removing for a single night flight? Can it be rolled up, stashed in back and reused?

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Don't remove it. It's only installed on the side windows and is still transparent. @Browncbr1 is correct it makes a huge difference. 

Install it just like you would any window tint with soapy water in a spray bottle. Once done right, it can look like factory tint and blocks a lot of heat.

I flew with it at night all the time with no adverse effects.

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11 minutes ago, gsxrpilot said:

Don't remove it. It's only installed on the side windows and is still transparent. @Browncbr1 is correct it makes a huge difference. 

Install it just like you would any window tint with soapy water in a spray bottle. Once done right, it can look like factory tint and blocks a lot of heat.

I flew with it at night all the time with no adverse effects.

The film I got is just static cling.  No need to use soap or water.  Immediately, upon first install, I was disappointed because it wasn't perfectly clear, but after a few hours, somehow it clears perfectly.   So, don't get discouraged after you put it on.  It clears up.  Something about how the film is on paper and needs some time to smooth out 

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3 minutes ago, Browncbr1 said:

The film I got is just static cling.  No need to use soap or water.  Immediately, upon first install, I was disappointed because it wasn't perfectly clear, but after a few hours, somehow it clears perfectly.   So, don't get discouraged after you put it on.  It clears up.  Something about how the film is on paper and needs some time to smooth out 

I used the very same Gila film as you. And you're correct, no need for the soapy water. But by using it, and cutting the piece just a mm too large, I was able to put it on the window and then slide it to tuck all the edges behind the trim. Then squeegee all the bubbles out. It looked like a factory tint job.

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A small oscillating 12v electric fan purchased at your favorite auto parts store and clipped to the clothing rack near the hat rack in the rear and then facing forward toward pilot/co-pilot works great. Use mine every summer and moves air nicely. I have a 12v power-port in my hat-rack area that my shop installed and connected to the master. Turn the master on and the fan runs. Beats the Tennessee heat in the summer for short flights when you don't feel like messing with the B-Kool  cooler. You can also use any portable 12v source to power the fan..

The Gila static cling tint works great as well. I did mine a few years back and it made a big difference. I have a B-Kool and have actually never used it. The fan and tint make a huge difference.

 

-Tom

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9 hours ago, Stephen said:

Though if you "accidentally" forget to stow it, it does provide really good air flow.  Not that I would encourage disregarding manufacturers guidance....

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How many eyeball vents do you have?

You can always add a second one if you don't have two... (one for the pilot and one for the co pilot sides)

Check to see if your roof vent is working properly.  The control cable is often inop due to corrosion...

There are a few things to update if the ceiling is coming down anytime soon....   control cable, drawn tube, general lubrication...

Best regards,

-a-

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On 3/11/2017 at 7:07 AM, Browncbr1 said:

If you haven't already, go to your local auto parts store and get static cling window tint.    You can cut to shape and can be removed in the winter or night.   It's about $10 for a giant roll.   The stuff I got is here and makes a HUGE difference.   

https://www.gilafilms.com/for-auto/static-cling-tint

What % are you using? I was thinking just the Light (35%), enough to take the edge off. It gets toasty here in the summer and even hotter in Phoenix if I go to visit family.

I picked up some of those see through window shades that attach with suction cups and we used those on the trip up to Mesquite but I like the idea of the static tint on the back windows.

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1 hour ago, Skates97 said:

What % are you using? I was thinking just the Light (35%), enough to take the edge off. It gets toasty here in the summer and even hotter in Phoenix if I go to visit family.

I picked up some of those see through window shades that attach with suction cups and we used those on the trip up to Mesquite but I like the idea of the static tint on the back windows.

I have some of those suction cup things and they are OK, but more difficult to see through... I feel like I'm unable to see and avoid as much with those, but not the tint... 

I know I got darker than 35%... I think I got 20%... I honestly can't remember and I am out of town right now.. I have the leftover in a box in my car I can check next week...    In TX, I would go as dark as possible.... or maybe 5% in the back windows and 20% in the sides...     I did back windows only and it made a HYUUGE difference. ;)

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  • 1 year later...

I was searching for threads on the long side window mod and came across this old thread.

Thought I would share that I found a great way to MASSIVELY increase overhead vent air flow on older models with the scoop on top of the cabin.  

remove the headliner and then remove the flat aluminum sheet in front of the water drain tube to access the vent chamber.  yank out all the old foam that the factory put in there as a cabin air filter.... put it all back together and you will be blasted will nice fresh air the rest of your days!!

 

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1 hour ago, Freemasm said:

There is something to be careful with here.  The vents use a baffle to slow water ingress velocity and coalescing material to "gather" water into drops big enough for the associated drain to be effective; thus, not let water into the cockpit via the vents. Have never seen foam utilized as a coalescing material in the overhead vents but Mooney made a lot of small changes in close order back in the day. If you fly in weather, removal of said baffle and material would most certainly let water in even if the vent is closed (assuming everything's working as designed). You know what fits your kind of flying. I just wouldn't recommend this to everyone.  Sounds preachy. Sorry.  Fly safe.  

I had not thought of that, and it makes good sense.   I’ve flown in light and moderate precipitation and haven’t noticed any moisture coming through, but I didn’t have the scoop extended.   The foam they used is the same type of basic low density urethane foam as the seats.  I removed about half of what was in there.  I was mainly just in there to ensure the overhead vent system is water tight all around the catch basin.   Will keep in mind. Thanks!

Edited by Browncbr1
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When I got my A model way back when .. same problem.  (Thought I was gona die in the thing come August - Texas based)  First, check the cabin vent scat tube, right side, pulls air in from the fuselage scoop (about 3" dia.).  Mine was so ancient, and beat up ... replaced it and ALL the other vent scat tubing behind the panel, low, to the vent diffusers and now all is very acceptable. 

Also, check the heater and cabin vent control and all the cables.  Check the heat box for function, disassemble and lubricate so it all works as designed.  Joe

airductS.jpg

Edited by mike20papa
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