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Turn coordinator electric problem?


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Recently at 1000 Rpms the no electric red flag keeps popping up. When I am flying it goes away. Is this a signal that failure is eminent?

it ties into the wing leveler so if you know who would service this it would be greatly appreciated.

Also Atc couldn't pick u my ident today...if there is any corolation there.

thanks 

kevin

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Recently at 1000 Rpms the no electric red flag keeps popping up. When I am flying it goes away. Is this a signal that failure is eminent?
it ties into the wing leveler so if you know who would service this it would be greatly appreciated.
Also Atc couldn't pick u my ident today...if there is any corolation there.
thanks 
kevin


First I would make sure your ammeter shows you are charging at 1000 rpm. If you have an older generator in your plane instead of an alternator I have seen some that will not charge at low rpm. If it still an issue let us know. I can look up in my logbook to see who last overhauled my Tc100.


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That turn coordinator is both electric and vacuum powered. The electric motor is powered by a power supply that is usually mounted on the left side of the pilots footwell. Vibration shakes the parts apart. If you are a wiz at electrical things you can probably repair it. Otherwise I hear it is an expensive replacement.

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What year is your plane?

Which TC do you have?

What does your voltmeter say when the red flag is thrown?

Generators need a lot of rpm to provide decent voltage compared to alternators.  Alternators still need more than idle rpm to start producing current....

My 65C had a TnB indicator.  More crappy than a TC as a back-up AI...

My voltmeter was on a page of my portable Garmin navigator.

The hint that the generator gave that it was dead,  the radios started flashing as the voltage dropped.   

Hoping to help...

Best regards,

-a-

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Plane is 74 m20e

i will check the ampmeter

it says on my stormscope that we are charging 13.4 volts.

i will mention the generator. I have notice that at about the same time the prop would turn a few turns the stop, then I would push the switch in again and it would start. Like it wasn't getting all the battery. The battery is 1 year old. 

 The heading indicator was damage during the annual and was removed and the bug was fixed. The shop paid for that. I am wondering if they could have loosen a connection while they were extracting the HI. , which is next to it.

thanks for all the insight!

kevin

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I just had mine overhauled, it was flopping left to right in turbulence. I took it to Naylors instruments in Gainesville and had it back in two days for $250.  Turns out it was low on dampening fluid, but they checked all the specs and adjusted as necessary. Great shop, great people. Scott brought me to the lab and opened it up for me while I was there. Here is their info.

http://www.naylorsinstrument.com/mobile/index.html

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You may want to Become familiar with Zeftronics voltage regulator for your generator.  Easy upgrade, works better and can add dummy lights to the instrument panel...

We have found that charging to an exact voltage is much better than just being close. A full battery compare to an empty battery is about a One volt difference.  Being off by 0.4 volts can be taking away a significant part of the battery capacity.

PP ideas only, not a mechanic.

Best regards,

-a-

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  • 3 weeks later...

Spoke with Brittain about the knob.  The answer to the question is that it is not supposed to move in or out at all.  Time to remove it and send it in for a rebuild.  Not the answer I was hoping for but it is an answer so now I know.  :unsure:

 

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