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6 hours ago, LANCECASPER said:

Bob I'm a little disappointed, with that beautiful interior you need to get that tow bar powder coated  : )

Be careful doing that! I never had my towbar slip out of the axle until after I had it powder coated. It really looks good, but hopefully in a couple of more years  (it's been three already . . . my how time flies!) it will be rough and rusty enough where it goes inside the axle to quit slipping. It's better now, only slips when I'm pulling hard and turning so the handle is on the outside of the turn. 

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54 minutes ago, Hank said:

Be careful doing that! I never had my towbar slip out of the axle until after I had it powder coated. It really looks good, but hopefully in a couple of more years  (it's been three already . . . my how time flies!) it will be rough and rusty enough where it goes inside the axle to quit slipping. It's better now, only slips when I'm pulling hard and turning so the handle is on the outside of the turn. 

Mine put me on my butt a couple of times before I realized that the angle of the foot to the handle was slightly obtuse. After a little adjustment in a vice making that angle slightly acute I've had no problem with the bar slipping out of the axle. Duh.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I messed up the French seam on my glareshield covering.  Fortunately only lost about a 4" strip of the cow hide, but it was after I went through the trouble of tracing a pattern, tacking and blind stitching the whole thing.  My little straight stitch antique singers feed wasn't up to the task.

The result was a couple of curses, a shopping trip to Ebay where I found a new Sailrite LS-1 for not much more than the knockoffs.  Hopefully it's legit and I don't have to invoke the Ebay money back guarantee mantra.  I'm really excited to start working with the walking foot.  I also think it will fit in my existing table, which is a definite bonus.  My wife told her coworked that her husband was super excited about his new sewing machine and of course I was readily made fun of :-)

I'll plan a spring time glareshield leather cover, and I'll gather the materials to make new covers and foam for the seats.  That will be the last hurdle in my complete DIY interior project.  I'm following this as my general guide and the expected result:

https://www.beechtalk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=116232

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I've seen that thread on BT also.

I'm ready to start my side panels now but I'm going to modify my knockoff machine with a double reduction gear of my own design. I love an engineering challenge. After looking at Sailrites big wheel and stuff I got to looking at the belt reduction system and I saw a way to add another belt/gear system using the same double gear and belt already being used to in effect double the reduction in speed. I'm ordering the gear and belt tomorrow and it will take me about a week to get it all set up (part time working on it). I should be able to slow things down quite a bit with this system. That's the only issue I see with the machine- going real sow ain't its big point. Even the sailrites have that issue without the monster wheel. 

Other than that I added a light to the sewing tunnel to see things in the needle better, I realigned the motor to drive the belt straighter (big deal I drilled one hole) and I knocked a burr off of the double walking foot with the grinder. Just picky stuff. This El Cheapo sews fine so far. I've done many test pieces and can run a pretty good stitch and a flat fell right now. I'll post pics of the reduction gear build when the parts get in. 

I will probably get Sailrites swinging binder foot to edge the carpets with woven tape. If you haven't seen it , look it up on youtube. 

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You can also go the route where "if smoking is not permitted, materials only have to be flash resistant"  buy yourself some "no smoking" placards (who in the hell smokes any more, anyway - especially in a small GA aircraft!) and just use what you want as long as the materials are "flash resistant".  Flash resistant materials - the only thing that begins to come to mind is nitrate doped cotton fabric.  Now, I don't want to be in a Stearman when some guys drops his cigar down into the "bowels" of the fuselage, ignites some 50 year old cotton and nitrates dope! 

CAR-3 aircraft that are used for Part 91 operations, with interiors where smoking is not permitted, the interior materials shall be flash-resistant (Ref: CAR-3, Section 3.388). In CAR 3 aircraft interiors where smoking is permitted, the wall and ceiling linings, the covering of all upholstering, floors, and furnishings shall be flame-resistant (Ref: CAR-3, Section 3.388).

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Well you can't really just do what you want. You need to reference the following paragraphs from 43.13 Chapter 9 Sec 4.

(You need to show that the fabric met some kind of national standard by the manufacturer. Luckily most do if auto fabrics are used. Most meet a national automotive fire standard of some kind and can be found on the makers website)

(1) If fabric is bought in bulk to refurbish the interior, seats, and ceiling liners for a CAR-3 aircraft used in part 91 operations, a manufacturer’s statement, declaring that the material meets the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) or similar national standard for either flash resistance or flame resistance, would be acceptable, but only for a CAR-3 aircraft installation. (Refer to 14 CFR part 43, section 43.13(a).) A manufacturer’s statement is acceptable due to neither the Civil Aeronautics Administration (CAA) nor the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) having published an FAA fire standard for either flash or flame resistance for interior materials for CAR-3 aircraft. Since the FAA would accept and recognize a national standard, the mechanic would reference the manufacturer’s statement and the national standard that the material meets in the aircraft’s maintenance records.

(2) If an annual inspection is performed on a CAR-3 aircraft with a new interior and there is no mention of a manufacturer’s statement that the fabric is flash or flame resistant as applicable, the possibility exists that the fabric is an unapproved part. The mechanic should take the necessary steps to ensure that the fabric meets or exceeds the ASTM or national standards. (Refer to 14 CFR part 23, appendix F.)

If you look up the testing, flash resistant means horizontal burn of 20 inches or less in 1 min and flame resistant is one half that distance. You must have the correct rig to do the tests you just can't throw a match to the fabric and call it good. Its easier to get the statement off of the website.

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On the same thread... does anyone have a picture of a Mooney seat with the seat cover off to see the method of construction? Another with both the seat cover off and the foam off? Depending on whether we are a solid canvas sling, webbing sling, or solid aluminum base, etc , has implications for the selection of an ideal foam type.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Brad:  almost done the refurb of my J (paint, interior, avionics), I looked through my photos and found one of the seat frames after we painted them.  Bottoms are metal, backs are pack cloth which is a hard woven vinyl.  Also attached are some of our foam buildups. We use Skandia DAX foam which is impregnated with graphite that requires no additional fire blocking.  The different colors are different densities. 

 

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Edited by Rmag
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SureFlight at KMQS just west of PHL.  I see your based near PIT.  Your welcome to fly in for a visit if you want to see the shop if it would help you on your project.  I am one of the owners.  We do paint, interiors, and avionics.  

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I'll be making a separate post in the near future.  Avionics are done, paint is done, interior is starting to go back in.  I'm writing up a start to finish story on the whole project.  It's taking a while, we keep putting customers ahead of finishing ours up. ;)

How do I add a signature line?

Edited by Rmag
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7 hours ago, Rmag said:

 

How do I add a signature line?

There are a few things you can do that start with tapping on your own avatar.

It should be a button that says signature line...

Of course, while I was looking for this, I was unable to find the exact details to share...

I'll see if Craig and Co... can lend a hand...

Best regards,

-a-

Edited by carusoam
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16 hours ago, cliffy said:

Well you can't really just do what you want. You need to reference the following paragraphs from 43.13 Chapter 9 Sec 4.

(You need to show that the fabric met some kind of national standard by the manufacturer. Luckily most do if auto fabrics are used. Most meet a national automotive fire standard of some kind and can be found on the makers website)

(1) If fabric is bought in bulk to refurbish the interior, seats, and ceiling liners for a CAR-3 aircraft used in part 91 operations, a manufacturer’s statement, declaring that the material meets the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) or similar national standard for either flash resistance or flame resistance, would be acceptable, but only for a CAR-3 aircraft installation. (Refer to 14 CFR part 43, section 43.13(a).) A manufacturer’s statement is acceptable due to neither the Civil Aeronautics Administration (CAA) nor the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) having published an FAA fire standard for either flash or flame resistance for interior materials for CAR-3 aircraft. Since the FAA would accept and recognize a national standard, the mechanic would reference the manufacturer’s statement and the national standard that the material meets in the aircraft’s maintenance records.

(2) If an annual inspection is performed on a CAR-3 aircraft with a new interior and there is no mention of a manufacturer’s statement that the fabric is flash or flame resistant as applicable, the possibility exists that the fabric is an unapproved part. The mechanic should take the necessary steps to ensure that the fabric meets or exceeds the ASTM or national standards. (Refer to 14 CFR part 23, appendix F.)

If you look up the testing, flash resistant means horizontal burn of 20 inches or less in 1 min and flame resistant is one half that distance. You must have the correct rig to do the tests you just can't throw a match to the fabric and call it good. Its easier to get the statement off of the website.

I appreciate the thorough reply.  What about the backing material that the fabric is attached to?  My original AIRTEX interior had a corrugated white plastic that I would have guessed flammable.  What is the accepted replacement for this material?  My original interior had some plywood in it.  There are photos of Bill Wheat sitting in an A model with plywood door panel.   I need to read through 43.13 chapter 9 sec. 4.  Again, thanks.  There have been lots of commentary out there on AC interiors, good to read some definitive info.  Just as a note, my A model seats had cotton padding and that multi colored foam sheeting.  Again, I wonder just how much was available in '59. 

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Things have changed since 59 but CAR3 doesn't exactly address anything but surface fabrics. If the plane came factory equipped with wood floor boards (Beech) they are still OK.   Don't "think" this too deep. 

22 hours ago, mike20papa said:

CAR 3 aircraft interiors where smoking is permitted, the wall and ceiling linings, the covering of all upholstering, floors, and furnishings shall be flame-resistant (Ref: CAR-3, Section 3.388).

Even when we talk of interiors where smoking is permitted we are still talking about the outer coverings on CAR3 airplanes. I do believe that the intent back then was what if a butt fell on the surface? Would it support fast burning? Also remember we used to (and still do) have interior walls that are covered with fabric and dope (sometimes it was NITRATE dope which was highly flammable! J-3s) If you have never seen a nitrate covered airplane go up in smoke, trust me, it is a sight to behold. POOF and its gone! Had a neighbor with an old Robin once who was covering his wings and the dope caught fire and boy did it go up fast. No time to even get  a hose. 

 

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When pointing to a supplier's plastic backing...

It may not be appropriate to assume it is plastic, so it is flammable by the way it looks...

It either is or it isn't, based on some standardized form of test.  From my ancient fuzzy memory collection... https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/UL_94

a plastic that has a proper flame retardant additive will look identical to one that doesn't have the additive.

Some plastics melt and run easier than others.

Some burn like gasoline, once they have been ignited.

When purchasing materials ask for the details in English...'is it flame retardant or fire proof' is a pretty good question...

The supplier should be able to explain what they have used.  (Everyone in the business should know)

When you receive the materials, trim off some bits, take them outside and try to light them on fire....

Melting, dripping, flaming drips, forming a river of fire running down the patio is bad...

hard to light, slow to burn, and doesn't spread quickly, are strong signs that flame resistance is built in.

Hard to light, really slow to spread, or doesn't sustain a flame, or is self extinguishing are great signs of flame retardation...

I used to buy styrene insulation used in construction.  It was certified, but came from a sketchy supplier. I expected that sooner or later his desire to save money was going to be stronger than the safety of the employees at the company.   

Styrene is one of those polymers that is easy to easy to light, easy to melt, drips with flaming drops, and produces thick black smoke while it burns...

Real flame testing requires standardized shaped parts, orientation and proper flame to light with...  and a clock.

For comparison, use a styrene foam coffee cup... a combination of styrene and pentane gas as the bubble blowing agent, not known for its flame resistance...

 

It is difficult to throw away something that isn't broken.  but, when replacing interior bits and pieces...  ask for flame resistant materials and expect some truth and honesty in return...

Then test it when you receive it.  To know what you have...

 

Overall, a small detail compared to all the gasoline in the tanks, but a good detail... :)

Best regards,

-a-

 

Edited by carusoam
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12 hours ago, Rmag said:

I'll be making a separate post in the near future.  Avionics are done, paint is done, interior is starting to go back in.  I'm writing up a start to finish story on the whole project.  It's taking a while, we keep putting customers ahead of finishing ours up. ;)

How do I add a signature line?

To edit your signature click on your username at the upper right corner.  Then click "Account Settings" on the left you will see an option for Signature.  Here you can also select to hide other peoples signatures.

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Now that is a good machine! That will last for MANY projects. 

I hope you stole it :-) as they are usually not cheap. 

I tried zooming but can't tell- I presume it is a full walking foot model?

Nice table and setup. 

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Hi Cliff,

I didn't steal it but I was happy with the price and the support I get with it. My Dad had an upholstery shop for 40 plus years and I've been waiting to get his machine some day, but he still dabbles in his old work. I decided I couldn't wait any longer! 

Mine is a Consew 206 model and will do everything I want it to. I have a few small practice jobs to do then I'll start on the Mooney. 

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As a contribution to the "effort" - attached is a dimensioned drawing for carpet replacement for my A model.  I would bet it fits all of the short body M20's.  At any rate, it would be a good starting point for a pattern.  When measuring up the floor space, it's amazing how small it is and how precisely it is figured out.  Even the slight adjustments to give the pilot a fraction of an inch more space.  Anyway, hope this is a help to anyone who wants to upgrade to a custom fit floor covering.M20 carpet pattern.pdf

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