NuLites question

[bradp]

For those who have installed NuLites, did you wire to the existing POT or run a new circuit with a separate POT and circuit breaker?   My preference would be to have it wired to the existing circuit if possible (not a lot of room on the CB panel for a new circuit right now and not interested in a panel re work). 

The total amp draw is 1amp for the 8 NuLites  lights I got.    I'm going to plan to measure the output across the current POT with everything turned up to see how much draw, but I have no idea what the max output of the pot is.  

Does anyone know the specifications of the POT (looks like a Mooney Frankenstein part) for a 1977 J?  The inst panel breaker is a 10A circuit.

Im hopeful it has the POT has enough and the breaker protection is sufficient for an additional amp.  I don't have post lights just the glare shield floods... 

If the breaker is sufficient and the POT is not, I have a max dim that I will plan to swap out.  

Thanks and take care

[Hank]

Mine are wired into the big knob atop the panel that turn the other lights on. Other than these, my interior lighting is just two red cannons in the ceiling, aimed at the panel. I have 2 small Nulites, need one more big one to have everything done. Lots of wires, but no problems.

[geoffb]

I just replaced all my post lights on the left hand panel with NuLites.  Just connected them to the wire that fed the original post lights.  Works fine with the original dimming pot.  The only ugly part is was routing and crimping all the wires together.  I need to find a cleaner solution when I pull the panel for paint.  It's a bit of a rat's nest right now.

[cnoe]

I was holding off replying to see if you got some more technical info from somebody but here's what I can offer. I installed a set of 5 nulites at annual in June and can finally see everything very well at night. I have 2 stock dimmer controls (panel and radio lights) and tied these into the radio pot (independent of the under-glareshield lights which have a fair amount of current draw by themselves). I don't believe you'll have any problems unless everything is on one dimmer circuit. But I have to ask if you have "incandescents" as I'm not sure the LED versions work without upgrading the dimmer circuit. Here's how it looks now.

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[bradp]

Thanks for the great info cnoe. I got a set of 8 incandescents used and it came with a max dim for like $100 (not a bad deal).   The current setup is a single dimmer that controls both glareshiel incandescents and the radio lights.  

My initial inclination was to wire the NuLites to the same dimmer as the glare-shield lights... but it may be a better idea to install the NuLites on a second dimmer as you have done.  My radio lights are currently on the glare dimmer and I've never thought I'd like them better on a separate dimmer, but it could be cool to swap them to the NuLite dimmer as you've done.  

 

Thanks and take care-

[bradp]

A bit of a project but a fun one.  Made a little wiring harness to run 8 Nulites.  Testing them out was a lot of fun.  Will end up having the standard six pack and the tach/MP gauge lit as well.  The current draw I haven't yet measured but is quite minimal - i tested all 8 together on a single 9V smoke detector battery. Fun stuff.  Except gotta wait till mechanic returns from vacation.   

@cnoe did you reuse existing screws or get new ones that are the ~1/8" longer? 

Thanks

b

 

[cnoe]

A bit of a project but a fun one.  Made a little wiring harness to run 8 Nulites.  Testing them out was a lot of fun.  Will end up having the standard six pack and the tach/MP gauge lit as well.  The current draw I haven't yet measured but is quite minimal - i tested all 8 together on a single 9V smoke detector battery. Fun stuff.  Except gotta wait till mechanic returns from vacation.   

@cnoe did you reuse existing screws or get new ones that are the ~1/8" longer? 

Thanks

b

 

I ordered a full complement of new screws from Aircraft Spruce as the originals were a bit worn and yes, a bit too short. I ordered several 5/8", 3/4", 1", and 1 1/4" (6-32 thread) to make it all work. Some 7/8" might be in order too. Here's the product link https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/brassinstrscrew2.php

Be careful with the leads as the connection to the bezel (a small circuit board actually) can break if put in a bind. I broke the one on my ASI as it interfered with the engine-gauge housing behind the panel. NuLites was awesome and sent out an immediate replacement at no charge even though it was my fault. I ended up reversing the lead on that one to make it fit correctly.

Hope this helps.

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[bradp]

IA got back from vacation and will sign off on my work.  I started yesterday and will post a step by step guide here for those who are interested.  I connected connected to the main dimmer rheostat and seems to work well.   At the dimmest setting in a poorly lit hangar, then nulites come on prior to any glare shield lighting on the same circuit.  So will avoid installing another dimmer for now.  

The biggest challenge so far is that the vertical distance between the instruments is 6.5 - 7.5 mm, which requires significant grinding with a dremel tool.  

To boot it is was chilly here yesterday.  So my old glareshiel cracked despite my best effort not to crack it.  I think it needs a mod to slide right out.  The design is prone to fail with old plastic in anything less than Texas heat.  Next project will be glareshield repair :-(

 

 

[carusoam]

Brad,  

Glare shield upgrade/rebuild time?

Our leather guy in Texas has done a few...

Best regards,

-a-

 

 

[bradp]

Anthony it may be. I'm going to see how some fiberglass reinforcements under the ABS look. If I'm not satisfied than will get it rebuilt and leathered up.

Got some more progress. I had to do a bit of surgery on the top of the tach light where the little wires/circuits/wheat lamps go. Needed to cut that area down by 2mm so dremeled it down, then had to rout out the space for the lights and drill new holes for the mounting screws. All the while I'm thinking I'm going to break the darned thing but fortunately it stayed together. Just have to tidy up the wires .... and address the glareshield. Doh.


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[Pictreed]

That's going to be nice. 

I flew the first time at night last week.  It was doable but not a fan in IMC. 

I'll start looking into this, I might have some questions for you sir. 

Tim

[bradp]

All done.
Got some glass on my poor glareshield.
In a more humorous moment I actually fish hooked myself with my trouble light while I was rooting around under the panel.


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[bradp]

First night flight with the Nulites.   I like them.  They are wired to the glareshield Dimmer and come on just before light from the glareshield is noticeable.  I usually like dim dim dim, so they work well for me.  

I noticed one issue is my ball is not quite centered.  I didn't notice it on the ground, but am going to double check tomorrow.  It's either needing an adjustment or more likely my panel shock mounts have gone and need to be replaced. 

Half way done fixing the glareshield although no pic for that.  I fiberglassed the back.  Then made a cut for the center post.  I'm going to bondo some imperfections, prep and repaint the whole thing.  Then, I'm actually going to make a negative mold (hopefully high quality with a gel tooling coat) for future use.  Finally, I'll have it leather wrapped or do it myself if I feel up to it.  As long as it comes out better that I started I'll be happy.  

Good winter basement project.  :-)