Txbyker Posted July 10, 2016 Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 Question-should the prop bolts always be safety wired? Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MB65E Posted July 10, 2016 Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 Hi Russ, not on that model of installation. However new washers must be installed every time the prop is removed & reinstalled. They are not standard washers, they are manufactured by the prop co. -Matt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 10, 2016 Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 I have seen instances where the studs were safety wired, it's generally not done or required. Clarence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Belville Posted July 10, 2016 Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 My Hartzell Scimitar is safety wired. In fact I believe it calls for .041 and not the .032 we use for most bolts, oil filter, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 10, 2016 Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 I had to go and look it up again to be sure what I said was correct. Here is the statement from the Hartzell manual: (7) Torque the 1/2 inch propeller mounting studs (dry) in accordance with Table 3-1, Figure 3-1, and Figure 3-2. (8) If required by the aircraft maintenance manual, safety all mounting studs with 0.032 inch (0.81 mm) minimum diameter stainless steel wire or equivalent aircraft safety cable and associated hardware (two studs for each safety). Refer to Figure 3-6. Propellers installed on Lycoming engines are generally a stud assembled with a nut locked together with a roll pin and Loctite to form a bolt now trapped in the propeller. Propellers installed on TCM engines as in the picture above have studs secured in the hub, the studs pass through the crank flange and have locking nuts installed. The studs may or may not be safety wired. Clarence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hank Posted July 10, 2016 Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 Hmmm . . . My Hartzell prop is safety wired to my Lycoming engine. My new A&P two years ago didn't like the way the wiring was done, and redid it (something about the way they were connected between the bolts). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Belville Posted July 10, 2016 Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 20 minutes ago, Hank said: Hmmm . . . My Hartzell prop is safety wired to my Lycoming engine. My new A&P two years ago didn't like the way the wiring was done, and redid it (something about the way they were connected between the bolts). We changed from .032 to .041 after Jerry Mantrey told me that what had been used by the shop that installed the prop after my MA prop strike was wrong. I do not intend to research whether that was unnecessary based upon Clarence's post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetdriven Posted July 10, 2016 Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 (edited) I'd like to know how you get .041 on an M20J prop, because the .032 took 2 hours to do 6 nuts. Edited July 10, 2016 by jetdriven 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 10, 2016 Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 9 minutes ago, jetdriven said: I'd like to know how you get .041 on an M20J prop, because the .032 took 2 hours to do 6 nuts. It can be done in less time and painlessly if you put an apprentice on the job. 0.041" is the standard, but my MT manual allows 0.032" Clarence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Belville Posted July 10, 2016 Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 25 minutes ago, jetdriven said: I'd like to know how you get .041 on an M20J prop, because the .032 took 2 hours to do 6 nuts. Practice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLCarter Posted July 10, 2016 Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 My Lycoming / Hartzell combo uses the stud, castellated nut, roll pin and 0.041" safety wire through the pin method which was a real PITA (for me anyway). After I was done I showed it to my IA buddy for his blessing, was told it was OK but it really could be a little tighter as he smiled and walked away. Clarence is correct, it is effortless when the apprentice does it as long as your not the apprentice. And yes I cut it all off and re-did it to his liking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MB65E Posted July 11, 2016 Report Share Posted July 11, 2016 5 hours ago, M20Doc said: It can be done in less time and painlessly if you put an apprentice on the job. 0.041" is the standard, but my MT manual allows 0.032" Clarence Hartzell has not always allowed .032 to be used if I remember? (10years?) Mac to Lyc-McCauley doesn't even list a diameter in their install manual. Same 1/2 in stud/nut combo Hartzell uses. Since hartzell and MT both allowed .032 I wasn't going to try .041. Thanks Clarence! -Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helitim Posted July 12, 2016 Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 (edited) I'd like to know how you get .041 on an M20J prop, because the .032 took 2 hours to do 6 nuts. Edited Sunday at 03:15 PM by jetdriven Byron, The first time I remounted my prop it took a loooong time as well. Then an IA buddy came by and showed me how to torque the nuts, mark their position with a sharpie, loosen the nut until I could more readily place the wire thru the holes, retitghten to the previous marks which he assured me would be the correct torque then put the twists in the wire as indicated. This cut my last prop install time almost in half. He had no suggestions for having to tighten the bolts a little at a time all the way around the hub over and over and over and over. I would really like to meet some of those engineers and smack the crap out of them sometimes. I used the 0.041 wire also. No fun. Tim Edited July 12, 2016 by helitim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yetti Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Forceps the locking ones with the little bend at the end. And needle nose pliers. I got the "That would pass, but we don't want other shops to know we did it" So clipped it all off and redid it. It gets easier to feed the wire the second time. Sometimes you have to start at the apprentice level and work your way up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jclemens Posted July 14, 2016 Report Share Posted July 14, 2016 The 3/4" wrench in this set is worth it's weight in gold if you have to pull Hartzell props, the other's in the set are not as useful. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Snap-On-Speed-Combination-Wrench-Set-SRX707-5-16-3-4-/122040825937?hash=item1c6a333851:g:VPoAAOSwQupXUL3l&item=122040825937&vxp=mtr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy95W Posted July 14, 2016 Report Share Posted July 14, 2016 7 minutes ago, jclemens said: The 3/4" wrench in this set is worth it's weight in gold if you have to pull Hartzell props, the other's in the set are not as useful. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Snap-On-Speed-Combination-Wrench-Set-SRX707-5-16-3-4-/122040825937?hash=item1c6a333851:g:VPoAAOSwQupXUL3l&item=122040825937&vxp=mtr That, and a good dictionary of cuss word combinations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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