RobertGary1 Posted April 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2019 3 hours ago, ArtVandelay said: On mine they were literally attached, don’t see how you could not find motivation to see what’s inside? Tom I was referring to permanent removal. I show pictures of the screen above. -Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M20F-1968 Posted April 28, 2019 Report Share Posted April 28, 2019 Can someone post a picture of where this screen lives on the plane? I do not believe I have one. I also have a a 1968 plane that sat from 1968 - 2003 until I took it ll apart. Thus, the AD probably was never complied with and I changed it to a Weldon pump. Just want to make sure I am not missing something. While we are talking about screens. I understand the finger oil screen on the rear of the engine never gets looked at. I am told by some that in order to pull it you need to pull the engine forward. Others say they have gotten it out without loosening the engine at all. What is the real story and doe this screen need to be looked at? John Breda Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MB65E Posted April 28, 2019 Report Share Posted April 28, 2019 The oil suction screen grabs the debris before it hits the oil pump. It is required to check every oil change. You’ll get various opinions if everyone changes it each oil change. It’s tight be you do not need to move the engine to remove the screen. It’s 2 pieces. The fuel screen for the airplanes equipped with old Dukes pumps. FWD and down stream of the electric fuel pump. I would still like to find a good part number of the oring as none of the drawings list the official pn for the o-ring. I found an oring that fits but it would be great to have the PN handy. -Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliffy Posted May 2, 2019 Report Share Posted May 2, 2019 When removing the oil suction screen unscrew the cap and remove it first, off of the screen, then remove the screen. Install in reverse order. Not enough room to remove it as an assembly. The cap just slides right off of the screen. Now, safety wiring is the b&*%$ ! Be sure to use a new seal ring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheTurtle Posted May 5, 2019 Report Share Posted May 5, 2019 On 4/28/2019 at 3:11 PM, M20F-1968 said: Can someone post a picture of where this screen lives on the plane? I do not believe I have one. I also have a a 1968 plane that sat from 1968 - 2003 until I took it ll apart. Thus, the AD probably was never complied with and I changed it to a Weldon pump. Just want to make sure I am not missing something. While we are talking about screens. I understand the finger oil screen on the rear of the engine never gets looked at. I am told by some that in order to pull it you need to pull the engine forward. Others say they have gotten it out without loosening the engine at all. What is the real story and doe this screen need to be looked at? John Breda this thread has a couple videos of removing the oil screen and some good info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertGary1 Posted May 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2019 To clarify, the thread has drifted. The recent posts about the oil pick up screen are not related to the secret fuel screen after the electric pump. -Robert 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prior owner Posted May 6, 2019 Report Share Posted May 6, 2019 I created a monster when I revived this thread!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAUL Posted August 29, 2020 Report Share Posted August 29, 2020 Hi, I just sampled my fuel and found debri, how can i remove this from my fuel tanks?? I just purchased the airplane, about a month ago and we were ready to fly but found this and decided not to fly. I think she was sitting for some time. The gas from the other area ( where the fuel tank selector is ) came out clean I pulled the ring on both sides and it was pretty clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtVandelay Posted August 29, 2020 Report Share Posted August 29, 2020 Hi, I just sampled my fuel and found debri, how can i remove this from my fuel tanks?? I just purchased the airplane, about a month ago and we were ready to fly but found this and decided not to fly. I think she was sitting for some time. The gas from the other area ( where the fuel tank selector is ) came out clean I pulled the ring on both sides and it was pretty clean. Keep sampling till it clears up.Or get a mechanic to pump the fuel out, then pull an inspection plate or sender and clean out the debris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAUL Posted August 29, 2020 Report Share Posted August 29, 2020 Just now, ArtVandelay said: Keep sampling till it clears up. Or get a mechanic to pump the fuel out, then pull an inspection plate or sender and clean out the debris. Where is the inspection plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtVandelay Posted August 29, 2020 Report Share Posted August 29, 2020 Where is the inspection plate? There’s several, but fuel tank inspection plates are sealed, you’ll need mechanic to open it up only after emptying the tank. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carusoam Posted August 29, 2020 Report Share Posted August 29, 2020 Start reading up about what can be in your fuel tanks, where it may have come from... And discuss cleaning out the sumps with your mechanic... the best way for what you need... How old is your plane? Does it have any rust producing parts at the top of the tanks? Has it been parked in a field? have you checked the tank vents for bug homes? Got any pics? PP thoughts only, not a mechanic... Best regards, -a- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PT20J Posted August 30, 2020 Report Share Posted August 30, 2020 How much debris are you talking about? If it's just a little, keep sampling until it clears up. If it is a lot and/or doesn't clear up, then you will want to have the tanks inspected for deteriorating sealant. But it it's not leaking, it will probably clear up especially if it has been sitting a while. Skip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N201MKTurbo Posted August 30, 2020 Report Share Posted August 30, 2020 Get a steel bucket and put It under your sump drain. Ground it to your plane. Remove the sump drains and let a few gallons out. it will flush almost anything out. You decide if you want to put it back in. stop the flow with a gloved finger. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carusoam Posted August 30, 2020 Report Share Posted August 30, 2020 Great modern insight, Rich! Safety rules are important... even the small ones... Best regards, -a- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliffy Posted August 30, 2020 Report Share Posted August 30, 2020 44 minutes ago, N201MKTurbo said: Get a steel bucket and put It under your sump drain. Ground it to your plane. Remove the sump drains and let a few gallons out. it will flush almost anything out. You decide if you want to put it back in. stop the flow with a gloved finger. repeat the first 2 sentences above 3 times!!!!!! DO NOT use a Home Depot plastic bucket or any plastic bucket period. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MB65E Posted August 30, 2020 Report Share Posted August 30, 2020 I’ve Always used bonding straps on plastic buckets and grounded to the airplane. thoughts? -Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtVandelay Posted August 30, 2020 Report Share Posted August 30, 2020 repeat the first 2 sentences above 3 times!!!!!! DO NOT use a Home Depot plastic bucket or any plastic bucket period. I’ve seen plastic buckets used all the time. But it’s in a well ventilated hangar in Florida, I haven’t been shocked by static electricity since I’ve live here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 30, 2020 Report Share Posted August 30, 2020 8 hours ago, N201MKTurbo said: Get a steel bucket and put It under your sump drain. Ground it to your plane. Remove the sump drains and let a few gallons out. it will flush almost anything out. You decide if you want to put it back in. stop the flow with a gloved finger. I would add, place a coffee filter in a funnel and strain the fuel to capture the debris if the OP is curious to know if it’s dirt or sealant. Clarence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliffy Posted August 30, 2020 Report Share Posted August 30, 2020 "I’ve seen plastic buckets used all the time. But it’s in a well ventilated hangar in Florida, I haven’t been shocked by static electricity since I’ve live here." I don't care if it hasn't happened to you or you haven't seen it. Well ventilated has nothing to do with it. Why do you suppose ALL airports require that NO fuel draining be done inside hangars? Why is it that NO fueling of airplanes is done inside hangars? Do you also feel that grounding the airplane to the fuel truck to refuel it is also a waste of time in Florida? IT HAS HAPPENED. There is a reason why a ground wire is required between the steel bucket and the airframe. Or the fuel truck and the airplane. I have personally come upon a fuel draining procedure on an airplane and had the hair on my arm raise due to static electricity when I went to investigate what was being done. I personally know of one individual who suffered large areas of burns from a fuel transfer fire caused by static electricity. Sorry to be blunt but you really are playing with fire if you don't follow the proper procedures on this one. But then again pilots die of CFIT and Inadvertent IMC all the time from doing stupid stuff. Sorry but 55 years in this business brings back memories I'd rather forget. Memories of close friends who did something stupid. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PT20J Posted September 1, 2020 Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 I remember going out to look at the scene of a fueling mishap at Lake Hood strip in Anchorage years ago. The pilot was sitting on the wing of a C-180 pouring fuel into the tank filtered by a large funnel and a chamois skin when a static spark lit it off. All that was left was a scorched airplane outline and some oxidized aluminum powder. Skip 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mooney-Shiner Posted November 23, 2020 Report Share Posted November 23, 2020 Has anyone figured out the P/N for the fuel filter o-ring yet? Pretty good knowledge on defueling/fueling above. Do you ever use 5 gal fuel cans to fuel your plane? How to mitigate the static in this case? Sorry for digress and making two questions out of one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilpilot Posted November 23, 2020 Report Share Posted November 23, 2020 18 minutes ago, ukrsindicat@yahoo.com said: Do you ever use 5 gal fuel cans to fuel your plane? How to mitigate the static in this case? Assuming your fuel cans are not metal and don't have an integral bond connection, you can reduce the chance of a static discharge by decreasing the distance between the discharge nozzle and the fuel in your tank and decreasing the flow rate. If possible, you could consider immersing the nozzle just under the surface of your wing's fuel to eliminate any liquid free fall. Another method is to attach a metal chain from the end of your nozzle that will drop into your wing, but this is more difficult and not always practical. Remember that electrical bonding, not necessarily grounding, is the way to mitigate static. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N201MKTurbo Posted November 23, 2020 Report Share Posted November 23, 2020 51 minutes ago, neilpilot said: Assuming your fuel cans are not metal and don't have an integral bond connection, you can reduce the chance of a static discharge by decreasing the distance between the discharge nozzle and the fuel in your tank and decreasing the flow rate. If possible, you could consider immersing the nozzle just under the surface of your wing's fuel to eliminate any liquid free fall. Another method is to attach a metal chain from the end of your nozzle that will drop into your wing, but this is more difficult and not always practical. Remember that electrical bonding, not necessarily grounding, is the way to mitigate static. I use a big metal funnel from the farm store. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carusoam Posted November 23, 2020 Report Share Posted November 23, 2020 Let’s say... It is really cold outside... the air is naturally dry because cold air can’t hold much moisture in in it.... The hangar is lightly heated... raising the air temperature and lowering the relative part of the humidity to near zero.... For some reason your wife bought you a really nice wool carpet for your hangar... You hate the pretty carpet addition to your man cave... So you drag your feet across it like a young teen every time, just for spite... The first time you touch the plane... a spark bridges the gap from your finger tip to the plane... Snap! You then notice your wife has finely embroidered the carpet with the words “fueling carpet, stand here....” The closer that spark is to fuel vapor... the more dangerous it becomes... There are different ways static electricity builds up on surfaces... most are friction related... dry air keeps it from dissipating... Wires and metal bits often help with dissipation... between various items... This is why we ground the plane while fueling... at the pumps. Grounding the whole plane, and fuel system to the the ground/earth/planet... In the hangar... connecting a wire rope to pull the plane into the hangar may work as a grounding source too... At the pumps we connect the exhaust pipe to the ground, believing the rest of the plane is grounded to the engine... which is most often true... Plastic containers can carry a lot of charge on them in a dry environment... Draining the charge is best done where vapor isn’t present... So... put away the fancy woolly rug until spring.... and it’s raining inside the hangar... metal fuel containers are better for this, than plastic ones... If you have ever used a vacuum system to unload a 55 gal container of dry pellets, with a plastic liner... in the winter... you Know what how the Snap! feels... Best regards, -a- 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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