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Any words of wisdom for a new 1964 M20E owner?


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Welcome to the E world. I've had mine 2 years. Bought it right after getting my Private. I now have about 375 hrs. Love how the plane flies. I'm in the mountains in Montana and on a shorter runway. I like the power, climb and speed of the E. Don't be scared of grass strips if they are in decent shape. I fly back and forth from Montana to Utah and it gets me up and over the 10-12,000 ft mountains just fine. 

Tips:

Trim is important on take off. Especially if you are doing touch and goes.

Make a habit of checking that gear is down 2x before landing.

Watch your numbers for landing and you wont float at all. 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

A quick update.  Verified engine mount is gusseted.  Pulled engine mount sent to paint shop got back yesterday.  Wow it looks really good.  Crankcase should arrive tomorrow. New fuel system and mags are waiting.  Plane power alternator conversion ready to go on as well. Spent Saturday under the airplane with my mechanic tracking down a small hydraulic leak coming from the flap actuator. Hoses older so will replace along with brake lines as well so we can bleed everything at once.  Getting dirty from working on the plane and loving it.  Kept the belly panels off for now to clean them up as they have over 40 years of funk on them.  Stopped by a friends shop yesterday that does aircraft interiors to get a quote for a new interior.  Things are coming along and it's been really fun.  This project is going to be a good one as long I watch my budget ;).  Can't wait to get her in the air!

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just waiting on the final engine components to come in so we can finish putting the engine together.  While we have been waiting I have been polishing the firewall and have been completing other trivial tasks. There are two upper cowl panels just aft of the firewall that allow access to the back of the instrument panel.  These panels have a section of insulation glued to them.  The insulation is about a half inch thick with a silver face.  It is deteriorating a fair amount so I was going to replace it while I'm waiting on the rest of the engine stuff to come in.  Anyone know the spec on this insulation so I can order some up? THX

 

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Ace Hardware had 1/2 inch round foam expansion joint filler like you use in your driveway expansion joints then apply caulk.   It seemed the best fit for the channel around the panel.  With a liberal application of contact cement it goes in quite well.   I have not had the plane in the rain, but I can't see rain getting under it.   I have had the panels off a couple of times and the foam seems to hold up well.  Better than the old gunk that was in there.   It was contact cement holding the gunk on from the factory.  A small stainless brush helped to get that out.

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4 hours ago, Yetti said:

Ace Hardware had 1/2 inch round foam expansion joint filler like you use in your driveway expansion joints then apply caulk.   It seemed the best fit for the channel around the panel.  With a liberal application of contact cement it goes in quite well.   I have not had the plane in the rain, but I can't see rain getting under it.   I have had the panels off a couple of times and the foam seems to hold up well.  Better than the old gunk that was in there.   It was contact cement holding the gunk on from the factory.  A small stainless brush helped to get that out.

I've been doing quite a bit of research regarding fuel tanks, corrosion, etc. One of the things I've learned is that you don't want to use any type of metal brush, steel wool, ect. on our aluminum surfaces. It can embed on a microscopic level and cause corrosion due to dissimilar metals especially in situations where it's painted or covered after cleaning. Just a FYI.

 

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Just now, 1524J said:

I've been doing quite a bit of research regarding fuel tanks, corrosion, etc. One of the things I've learned is that you don't want to use any type of metal brush, steel wool, ect. on our aluminum surfaces. It can imbed on a microscopic level and cause corrosion due to dissimilar metals especially in situations where it's painted or covered after cleaning. Just a FYI.

 

That would explain why they hand me a Scotch abrasive pad to clean the surface corrosion

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2 hours ago, 1524J said:

I've been doing quite a bit of research regarding fuel tanks, corrosion, etc. One of the things I've learned is that you don't want to use any type of metal brush, steel wool, ect. on our aluminum surfaces. It can imbed on a microscopic level and cause corrosion due to dissimilar metals especially in situations where it's painted or covered after cleaning. Just a FYI.

 

Steel wool would be bad, steel brush would be bad.... which I said stainless brush.   Not sure it is best, but I believe a stainless brush can be used for prepping Alum for welding.  Alum is hard to weld properly due mostly to prep work.   Always open to learning new things.  

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24 minutes ago, Yetti said:

Steel wool would be bad, steel brush would be bad.... which I said stainless brush.   Not sure it is best, but I believe a stainless brush can be used for prepping Alum for welding.  Alum is hard to weld properly due mostly to prep work.   Always open to learning new things.  

You may be right about stainless....this is what I came across when researching Mil spec. T O 1-1-8. I always thought brass wouldn't hurt but I was also worried about sparks. 

Only those aluminum wools and brushes speci- fied shall be used to agitate metallic surfaces during finish system removal operations. Other types of metallic wools and brushes, such as steel, copper, brass, beryllium copper, etc., shall not be used as they will either embed in or smear on the metallic surface and cause severe galvanic corrosion problems. 

Sorry for high jacking the topic. :rolleyes:

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Great discussion but still more interested in the insulation material not the gasket material that seals the panels at the skin.  The insulation material is glued to the back of each panel and is aprox 4"x12" and about .5" thick.  I have found a few options but wanted to see if anyone could verify the specific type if insulation so I can order the same stuff if possible. THX!

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5 hours ago, MTNM20E said:

Great discussion but still more interested in the insulation material not the gasket material that seals the panels at the skin.  The insulation material is glued to the back of each panel and is aprox 4"x12" and about .5" thick.  I have found a few options but wanted to see if anyone could verify the specific type if insulation so I can order the same stuff if possible. THX!

I used 3M sound damp panels.  Aircraft Spruce sells them as 09-30206, 212 or 218, depending on size.

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I used the self adhesive material I had left over from doing the Interior Insulation (aircraft spruce). From what I have read, the insulation is more for vibration dampening with with added benefit of thermal protection. I sealed the panels up with this stuff when I was doneimage.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

The engine is finally going back together and should be hanging on the airplane this month. Very excited!  While I have been waiting for the engine I have been taking care of some simple housekeeping issues on the aircraft. Cleaning and touchup paint primarily.  I noticed the other day that the rubber gasket on the ram air door was cracked so I just ordered a replacement gasket from LASER.  Looks like it secured to the door by flush mount rivets.  Anyone ever change one of these and can offer a few pointers?  Thanks

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I replaced the seal on my ram air door, there are 2 flat rectangle pieces of aluminum and the mounting bracket, door is held on with 3 screws from the back side, wasn't that difficult, but I had the lower cowl off already. A little time consuming trimming the seal to fit perfect (used a flashlight to ck seal). Used a benchtop belt sander to sneak up on a tight seal, maybe 2hrs total time

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  You will be pleased with all of the Mooney characteristics except for roominess. Although technically not a high performance aircraft she shares some flight characteristics like a tendency to be a bit difficult to hold at a particular altitude. Just 5 or so MPH slower than a Bonanza but far more economical in fuel and maintenance. The Bonanza lands like a dream but the Mooney is easily her equal which you would not expect being so low to the ground. The best advice I can give you is download the manual and learn every bolt and weld in your airplane; it will help to keep you from being cheated when it comes time for an annual.

  The Mooney fuselage is a tube steel cage with an aluminum skin; the wing and tail boom are all aluminum monocoque which means crash safety. The rubber disk suspension means the trouble of shock struts is gone. There are no inner landing gear doors like the Bonanza but the simplicity  of the system is worth a couple of knots.

  Make sure your equipment list and weight and balance documentation are up to date because the Mooney is easy to load aft of CG. By the way the POH of most early Mooney models do not include weight and balance charts; some of us can help if your package is shorted such information. The early Mooney manuals also do not include emergency procedures checklists; I had to write my own. One more thing learn to do as much as possible yourself and find an inspector willing to do owner assisted annuals. I have the advantage o being an A&P so most repairs I can do myself!

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Me, three. Full tanks and a CFI puts me close to the forward limit. Even when I carry four people, the concern has been gross weight and not CG.

How do you ever approach the rear limit? Solo, half tanks and lots of bricks in the back? :rolleyes:

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  • 1 month later...

Beautiful plane.   I own one that rolled down the production line shortly after yours SN#377 N7138U.   I bought mine Jan 2016 and have flown her about 125 hours in the first 6 months of ownership.  I am looking at a major on the engine in the next few months as it sat for 6 years before I got it and compressions on #1 and #3 are in the low 60's with oil consumption running about 1 qt / 3 hours.  I am slowly(as budget allows) making improvements to her.  As others have said Mooney's aren't hard to fly, they just don't want to quit flying.  My insurance only required a CFI signoff, no set hours (I transitioned from a Bonanza 35E).  Watch your speeds in the pattern and you will do fine.  I shoot for 100mph on downwind, 90 on base, and 80 over the numbers.  For me that sets it down beautifully.

MooneyM20E.jpg

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Im pretty sure I saw, read and called about this plane back in January myself...

Im pretty sure you got it for cheep too, cause I dont even call unless the price is Very reasonable!

I think your pic above is the 1 from the ad I saw in Barnstormers, so we are gonna need some new ones.

I think I recognize the pic because the nose gear looks like he has been landing in mud!

The mains look like the hinge points below the pucks are stuffed with hay, or grass.

 

As for the engine I would only plan on overhauling the 2 soft cylinders.

Pretty easy on the wallet, and fast turnaround.

With them off, you can get your self a good look at the cam, lifters and rods,

Before you make a decision about needing a bottom overhaul!

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  • 4 weeks later...

A quick update!  Started hanging the engine on the aircraft today!  Won't be long now I hope.  Went to Oshkosh for the first time this year and checked out everything that could possibly relate to my project.  Plenty of great ideas but kept my wallet where it belonged until I get the plane in the air.  Stopped by the MAPA tent and met Don Maxwell and his wonderful wife.  Very welcoming!  Became a member of MAPA and am now working on the secret handshake ;).  Learning more about my M20E daily and getting excited to get her in the air!

20160810_171635[1].jpg

20160810_171649[1].jpg

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