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52 minutes ago, Kris_Adams said:

Hi Don, do  you think these will be available relatively soon?  My pilot visor cracked about a month ago and I'm looking for options.  Thanks!

I sent you a PM

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  • 3 years later...

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They look good, if I do say so myself.

I ordered a couple sets from Don and got them set up this past weekend and they look great! I have the LASAR mounting hardware so Don made me a set without the holes drilled. I clamped the old an

Received mine today and installed with the RAM ball joints that I bought. Don did a great job!   Here are the sockets that I bought: http://www.gpscity.com/ram-mount-plastic-lite-arm-b

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FWIW:  I have Rosen visors in my plane.  They are big and i thought of cutting them down in the center portion, but decided not to do that because I stow them against the ceiling (along the long axis of the plane) when not in use and when using them they provide more area of sun protection.

John Breda

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4 hours ago, M20F-1968 said:

FWIW:  I have Rosen visors in my plane.  They are big and i thought of cutting them down in the center portion, but decided not to do that because I stow them against the ceiling (along the long axis of the plane) when not in use and when using them they provide more area of sun protection.

John Breda

Similar experience here: initially they felt too big and always in the way, but storing them longitudinally like you do is fine, and especially for blocking the sun coming in the side window, I wouldn't be without them now.

-dan 

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I have one set of my visors in stock right now. I have parts on order for more, but it may be several weeks before they arrive. My hardware is very similar to Rosens (at least the ones I have seen). My shades are a little smaller than Rosens, and do what I think is a very good job.

As to the F, I am not sure. Mine bolt on the framework on the outside of the windshield. I know they fit Js and above.

Look at my albums for photos.

Don

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  • 1 year later...

Hi Don,

Are you still making these?

I have a 1983 J model and the stock copilot visor is loose. It seems the plastic tabs that are supposed to hold it in place relative to the metal bar are cracked and not providing enough friction to hold the weight. I think I could probably fix that part but would be happier replacing the set with something sturdier/larger.

If you're not making them, perhaps you could advise on what kind of material you used for the visor proper? :) 

Adi

IMG_5561.jpg

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6 hours ago, Adi said:

Hi Don,

Are you still making these?

I have a 1983 J model and the stock copilot visor is loose. It seems the plastic tabs that are supposed to hold it in place relative to the metal bar are cracked and not providing enough friction to hold the weight. I think I could probably fix that part but would be happier replacing the set with something sturdier/larger.

If you're not making them, perhaps you could advise on what kind of material you used for the visor proper? :) 

Adi

IMG_5561.jpg

Yes, I am still making them, and have a set in inventory at this time. I am also glad to provide the specifications and materials if someone wants to build their own.

 

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On 2/22/2016 at 11:45 AM, DonMuncy said:

Only time will tell. This is a continuing problem with any articulating joint. You need enough friction to hold the adjustment and not so much as to preclude adjustment. Maintaining that friction level is touchy.  I am a little worried as my design relies on a relatively small area of contact between the "ball" and the hole in the apparatus.

Don,

I have the Rosens and had difficulty getting the right friction on the side mount screws, until I added some nylon washers.  The Nylon has enough give that you can tighten it down, but it will still move.  I am thinking that can be done making a seat for the ball in the articulated joint.  Tougher to do without a milling machine, but I guess it could be done with a milling machine bolted down to a drill press since you would only be making round holes with say a 90-degree end mill.

John Breda

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On 6/15/2016 at 7:58 AM, N601RX said:

Don,

I would be happy to make any 3D models you need.  I also have a 3D printer and can print Prototype parts if you need something to "Lay your Hands on" before machining parts.

For clamping force consider some of these under the nut to provide the clamping force.  They can be stacked if needed to get the desired load. They will maintain a constant load over time much better than just a bolt/nut.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-disc-springs/=12v3j66

The washers you point out are Cool.  Good to know about.

John Breda

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Guys,

The above conversations dealt with the alpha version of my visors. I have since redesigned them and use machined articulating joints. And yes, the washers make all the difference. I have used both nylon and fiber washers with good results.

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Recently I bought vintage Mooney visors for our C.   They used to be installed as evidenced by holes and signs of the mount on the center post.  I want to install them and see if I like them.  Questions: what type of screws were used to mount the originals?  Stainless steel or brass?

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I really have no knowledge, but my memory is that the C models had an ordinary steel tube for the center post, and if so, ordinary steel screws should not make a difference. However, it would seem that brass or stainless would not hurt either.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I ordered a couple sets from Don and got them set up this past weekend and they look great!

I have the LASAR mounting hardware so Don made me a set without the holes drilled. I clamped the old and new together to get the holes in the same location.

new_visors.png

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On 12/31/2020 at 3:48 AM, Adi said:

t seems the plastic tabs that are supposed to hold it in place relative to the metal bar are cracked and not providing enough friction to hold the weight

Mine were replaced with a home made solution. Not mine, but it’s stupid simple and works good. I think the dude cut a couple strips of plastic off a milk jug (being dramatic).  Let me know if problem still persists I can send pics. 

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For $26 you can get a roll of static cling tint that is enough to cover every window in the plane.  I cut a few pieces 12x18 and move them around to follow the sun, or fold up in a side pocket when not needed.

much less bulky, easy to see through and works great. 
I even applied like regular tint to the rear windows, which is legal because it can easily be peeled off at any point.  

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11 hours ago, Niko182 said:

how much are these?

I get $140 per set for the visors (with hardware), and $20 per pair for just the shades, plus shipping.  Shipping is running less than $15. 

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Just an FYI.  I used a CNC Router to cut out a few pair.  I found using Optical Quality Lexan made a huge difference in the clarity.  Yes... it was about 50% more expensive but worth it.  I also oversized each visor by a full 1" around the entire perimeter.  Dubro (RC Plane Stuff) wire mounts were used to secure the visors to the existing mounts.

The material edges after cutting were sanded with 220 Grit Wet sandpaper then Flame polished clear.

Came out GREAT!

 

Rick

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8 minutes ago, Releew said:

Just an FYI.  I used a CNC Router to cut out a few pair.  I found using Optical Quality Lexan made a huge difference in the clarity.  Yes... it was about 50% more expensive but worth it.  I also oversized each visor by a full 1" around the entire perimeter.  Dubro (RC Plane Stuff) wire mounts were used to secure the visors to the existing mounts.

The material edges after cutting were sanded with 220 Grit Wet sandpaper then Flame polished clear.

Came out GREAT!

 

Rick

Pictures?

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