Lance Keve Posted January 19, 2016 Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 Sorry, just having fun. Sometimes there's no place to go but you have to go up. Day after Christmas and just needed to play. Don't mind the music. Mute if you have to. I had a real signed bands song originally, but youtube and FB both caught it with their "Shazam" like system and screamed copyright infringement and wouldn't accept the upload. I've heard there are ways around it, pitch shifting and such, but was too impatient to bother and slapped on, umm, the end bit of a longer original song from a different life instead. Regards, Lance 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsxrpilot Posted January 19, 2016 Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 Nicely done. I assume that's a sticky mount on the HS? I use the same mount. Were you above the Logan class Bravo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zerobearing2 Posted January 19, 2016 Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 Really like that perspective. When I get a gopro, that will be the location to mount it. Nice vid! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lance Keve Posted January 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 32 minutes ago, gsxrpilot said: Nicely done. I assume that's a sticky mount on the HS? I use the same mount. Were you above the Logan class Bravo? Thanks. Yes, that's the sticky mount on outer edge of HS. Copied from someone else's location on a post I saw. I put one in same place on right side too (get to see the step retract...geek) for times when want to get the best right side view of things (Northbound New York SFRA, etc.) Yes, above the Boston Bravo at 7800 ft. - There's a lower level "city tour" I hear folks do but haven't seen the specifics for that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marauder Posted January 19, 2016 Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 Lance -- you now need another camera inside! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lance Keve Posted January 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 31 minutes ago, Marauder said: Lance -- you now need another camera inside! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Hey Chris - I actually did put a sticky mount inside on the center ceiling in the rear and shot a trip to NJ with my eldest son. The sun angle didn't help the quality so will give it a go another time. Also, although it's neat to be far in the back and seeing outside all of the windows, having it up closer looking forward would give better view of instruments which are impossible to see from that far back. I only have one camera, too. Then, there's audio (ATC comms) Hmm, what am I getting into? I've seen so many great videos and editing. Don't know if I have the time. Hard to compete with that "On Top of the World With My Mooney" - Love that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oscar Avalle Posted January 19, 2016 Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 2 hours ago, Lance Keve said: Hey Chris - I actually did put a sticky mount inside on the center ceiling in the rear and shot a trip to NJ with my eldest son. The sun angle didn't help the quality so will give it a go another time. Also, although it's neat to be far in the back and seeing outside all of the windows, having it up closer looking forward would give better view of instruments which are impossible to see from that far back. I only have one camera, too. Then, there's audio (ATC comms) Hmm, what am I getting into? I've seen so many great videos and editing. Don't know if I have the time. Hard to compete with that "On Top of the World With My Mooney" - Love that one. I use my I phone record the panel and outside views from the cockpit and I feed this into the video stream. I also have a camera inside on the center ceiling, but the footage is rather poor, you can not see the panel well and outside view is limited, in particular when there are two people flying. Oscar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chocks Posted January 19, 2016 Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 (edited) I can be of some help here. For those of you wanting to get the best images from your GoPro filming from inside and outside the aircraft, you need to make sure you do the following: If you are filming from inside the aircraft (dark area) and pointing the camera outside the aircraft (light area) you need to make sure that the "Spot Meter" is ON. If the opposite is true, or you are filming purely in one lighted environment, then turn the spot meter OFF. That will remedy the overexposed exterior. Yay! For the best view from inside a Mooney cockpit, mount the camera just forward of the overhead lamp / vents. You can strap a mount onto the overhead trim housing or use a u-bolt around the roll bar. The threads on a 1/4" x 3/4" U-bolt will screw into a standard GoPro tripod mount. Just make sure the length is at least 2" to have enough thread to screw the mount on. Let's quickly talk about prop strobing or "scimitar prop" as it's being called. This will also apply to a "jello" or rolling shutter effect that you will sometimes get. Your camera films at 30 or 60 fps. That is too slow to properly capture a spinning prop or tiny oscillations, so it tears the image. You can up the FPS (frames per second) on your camera to something like 120fps, but that increases your file size considerably, and most casual users don't prefer that solution. They prefer an ND (neutral density) or prism filter. This allows the frames to blend together and removes the tearing or streaking in a shot. So where do you get one? Either directly from Polar Pro here: https://www.polarprofilters.com/products/neutral-density-frame-filter-hero33 or from me. Do not buy them anywhere else, or you'll just get a washed out, colorless image that you'll be unhappy with. To capture the most robust imagery, filming in the "Wide" format will render the best results. However that setting does require some post editing to render a proper result. (i.e. GoPro Studio or other video editor) Filming in the "Medium" or standard format is the best compromise. As far as an audio adapter cable, all you need is this: http://www.thesquawkshoppe.com/products/aviation-headset-audio-adapter-cable?variant=1020167821 Just select what headset plugs/attachments you have and what camera/recorder you have and done. Do not buy this from anywhere else, or you'll get a piece of garbage cable that will flake apart and disintegrate. Do NOT, I repeat, do NOT purchase that dumb ass kit with the mount. You don't need that ridiculous heavy mount - use a sticky mount, GoPro suction cup, or Ram Suction cup outside the aircraft, (believe me I've tested them all and those 3 options work the best) that horrible filter or that garbage cable. Example vid for filter: Edited January 19, 2016 by FlyingSchmidt 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HRM Posted January 20, 2016 Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 Good grief! Did you fake that landing? That was the most super video I have seen in some time. Thank goodness for ClipGrab, that's a keeper. Thank you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HRM Posted January 20, 2016 Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 Oh, and the music was super as well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lance Keve Posted January 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 18 hours ago, FlyingSchmidt said: I can be of some help here. For those of you wanting to get the best images from your GoPro filming from inside and outside the aircraft, you need to make sure you do the following: ...... Let's quickly talk about prop strobing or "scimitar prop" as it's being called. This will also apply to a "jello" or rolling shutter effect that you will sometimes get. Your camera films at 30 or 60 fps. That is too slow to properly capture a spinning prop or tiny oscillations, so it tears the image. You can up the FPS (frames per second) on your camera to something like 120fps, but that increases your file size considerably, and most casual users don't prefer that solution. They prefer an ND (neutral density) or prism filter. This allows the frames to blend together and removes the tearing or streaking in a shot. So where do you get one? Either directly from Polar Pro here: https://www.polarprofilters.com/products/neutral-density-frame-filter-hero33 or from me. Do not buy them anywhere else, or you'll just get a washed out, colorless image that you'll be unhappy with. ........ Hi FlyingSchmidt: Great information. Thanks. I have a Hero2 and it seems all the add-on ND filters are for Hero3 and beyond. Did I see somewhere of a homemade option for the Hero2 case, or is there one I'm missing? Regards, Lance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lance Keve Posted January 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 14 hours ago, HRM said: Good grief! Did you fake that landing? That was the most super video I have seen in some time. Thank goodness for ClipGrab, that's a keeper. Thank you. Yes, it is fake. I've pretended to be a novice filmaker and have lame editing abilities but that was the master plan to throw everyone off so I could slip in a "moonlanding" fake landing edit. 14 hours ago, HRM said: Oh, and the music was super as well! Thanks and too kind HRM. Not exactly top 40. That's my me, my brother and keyboardist. For the geeks...2 guitars (Hohner, G&L), Some rack effects (Digitech GSP21, Alesis Quadraverb), one Yamaha SY77 w/ sequenced drums. Recorded on a Tascam 8-track DAT in a tiny concrete rehearsal space underground near Fenway. We here huge!....in Liechtenstein... SUPER 21! <--- new band name? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chocks Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 Hi FlyingSchmidt: Great information. Thanks. I have a Hero2 and it seems all the add-on ND filters are for Hero3 and beyond. Did I see somewhere of a homemade option for the Hero2 case, or is there one I'm missing? Regards, Lance Yes, if you have a local B&H Photo, you can just buy some film and cut it into a little circle for the Hero2 waterproof cases. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carusoam Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 B&H has an app in the I-store! they are good for all those wires and plug conversions that you need as the world changes... Best regards, -a- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lance Keve Posted January 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 5 hours ago, FlyingSchmidt said: Yes, if you have a local B&H Photo, you can just buy some film and cut it into a little circle for the Hero2 waterproof cases. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 24 minutes ago, carusoam said: B&H has an app in the I-store! they are good for all those wires and plug conversions that you need as the world changes... Best regards, -a- Thank you and thank you. Will investigate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chocks Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 (edited) On 1/29/2016 at 2:23 PM, Lance Keve said: Thank you and thank you. Will investigate. FYI, this is the DIY tut that I used for my hero2http://www.flitetest.com/articles/simple-diy-gopro-hero-2-nd-filter Now the link he has for the filter is an item that is no longer sold, so find a similar kit or something like this here:http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-Definition-Professional-Panasonic-Camcorders/dp/B0065PB7M4/ref=sr_1_4?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1455040942&sr=1-4&keywords=27+mm+Neutral+Density+ND4+Filter+for+27+mm+Lens You need to use the "ND4" filter that the kit comes with for outside views flying. I just cut the filter out of one of the shell for my waterproof cased one. Edited February 9, 2016 by FlyingSchmidt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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